trickedcarbine

All last year I himmed and hawed about the 10 because I didn't think the 10mm would live. But I've talked a ton with different builders and they say it is possible if I keep the compression/timing down some and gear it right so it's not up past 9,500 much. There is that kid TTbansheerida, that has had his together for some time and it is a 10mm cub. I just wanna build it as big as I can so I only do it once and be done(granted the crank lives). If not, then I'll go back to my passion 4 mil till I can build a big 4mm. Oh, your right the pistons are $$$$$. But not much more then the pistons for the 535 cheetah I considered. Sorry if the topic title is a little deceiving. Well, I'm finally able to pop the clutch on my new build and I have decided on the Twister Small Block. I made this decision because if something happens In race season I can always keep pistons around and bore it and be at next weeks race instead of waiting for nikasil. Add to that the cost of cheetah was a bit more before I even calculated the machine work and additional fixes and porting.

Well, I'm finally able to pop the clutch on my new build and I have decided on the Twister Small Block. I made this decision because if something happens In race season I can always keep pistons around and bore it and be at next weeks race instead of waiting for nikasil. On top of that there is the added cooling ability as well. Now my question is, do I have Louie do the his CNC touch up or do I just buy it shelf stock and send it to someone else? I don't really know who is messing with these things and getting good results lately and I am NOT gonna send this thing to Kevin at Herr. Just haven't seen much on these things lately and wondered who is currently doing good things with them. Not looking for a drag motor, more like a clean up to crisp things up a little bit bottom - top if possible. Just never dealt with Louie and curious how his work would stack up.

Since you think it's a T-Rex but say its a twister brand it might be worth giving Lew a call. They used to have a cylinder pretty close to the Rex's. Hell it could of even been a Rex but just to lees specs.

Dardy, 10mil 75mm small block.... Hoping to have Andy from Grand River Racing do the pipes since it'll be in a 450 chassis. Been wanting to do this for 2 years but have been balls deep in remodeling my own place. Jereme, most of out practice is on a private lake in Waterford or we go out on White Lake. There should be 2 races on white lake this year but the rest of the actual AMA d14 stuff is up in the air. Such piss poor planing. I might just run a couple Races in Wisconsin and Ohio this year in stead though.

Those are not bad carbs and have you tried to tune them yet?

Talked with my machinist about doing more weight on the twister set up I'm starting for ice racing.

For sure. Shoot a pic if you do.

28mm PWK if you need to replace Junkers. Otherwise the stockers are actually pretty decent if tuned right.

The photos of those nerfs are jankin sheerider11. Your heel is just floating on that chunk of aluminum from the nerf. At least that's how it looks in the photos. You could gain a lot more control and be safer with a bit of grinding and filing to get that metal matched up to your peg profile.

The 35's would be more better suited to a motor with port work or stroke. What kind of mods are already done again? I can imagine you would be fine with the stockers with a tors delete based on the level your at. The stockers can actually make quite a bit of power. Plus the money you're thinking of spending on carbs can definitely be spent on other areas you will really notice.

If you are willing to have to cut, grind, and maybe weld I'd say grab a set of older used pro pegs with the fixed aluminum pegs. Grind them off and make it work with your ims pegs. If not, ditch the pegs and get the new AC pro peg with the stainless pegs. You won't miss those IMS pegs at all.

^ ten points for that guy.

Uhh, Tony Doukas?

Most simply put exhaust pressure controlled Power Valve. http://adrenalinpedstop.blogspot.com/2011/05/athenas-innovative-new-power-valve.html?m=1

What a power valve is. Although these will be servo not exhaust pressure like your Rex. http://www.yamahapart.com/page/yamahapowervalvesystemypvs

Shows what the transfer port is/does. http://indigo.ie/~vire7/2stroke.htm

^ that's how guys started doing it when T-Rex's were the hot new thing. For all we know that could be from 10-12 years ago. OP, You don't NEED the power valves granted there is a block off done to the exhaust port. Your set up appears to have a decent epoxy job and I think you should see if the motor will pass a leak down to verify it is sealed up good. If so, run it.

^ that is a solid plan. You will have a lot of details to deal with but it doesn't all have to be done right away. However if you can manage to be patient enough to start from the cases up on the rebuild it should be more reliable and perform better. Those pipes will be fine. Down the road you may wanna swap them for something else.

What was the solution?

Every season I keep trying to live with lower compression motors but always go back. Almost every dollar I spent rebuilding motors is because of my lust for higher compression. I have found 175, to be about the borderline for reliability but with a 10 mil I'd feel a lot more safe kicking about 165

It definitely should. STY has with a 443 cub in a stock chassis. So spend time making it all work and see what you get. You mention you had a light weight chassis, is it a modded stocker or legit drag frame?

This mother fucker is half the age of most of these fellas and yet he has twice the pimpin'. For real, that little dude cleans up well.

The 2/1 carbs need constant needle and air screw attention. Some idiot will probably tell me I'm wrong, but if you ride more then a few times a season it will. Then again it's gonna come from the expert who just couldn't handle two carbs that will tell me their bike runs just fine with zero changes.

Don't be a cunt about it.

+ 4 is pretty safe. Should give you a bit more bottom- mid performance.