trickedcarbine

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=158866

Ditch the dyna.

That will be a friggin monster when you get it going.

If you are dead set on HJR doing the top end yet are looking for more work in the bottom end, why not just send the whole thing to him to go through. He has a decent pro mod type tranny from what I hear. He can match the upper case to the jugs as well. I've got my favorites but a lot of other folks seem to be happy with HJR service. Give him a call and see what he can work out for you.

Haha! You're so fucked..... Welcome aboard. Looks like a nice start.

Split the cases and clean everything to make sure there is no coolant down there

No clue, just seen them at local races putting the hurt on larger motors with pretty similar chassis set up and riders are close in size/weight. I'd imagine that the 10 mil was from A&S and with what was supposedly a 4mil,maybe (gulp) RDZ? It was plastered with RDZ stickers.Sorry it's not a link to a dyno sheet or YouTube video. I just gave an opinion based on what I've seen. I'm sorry you didn't get the same results a select few have. I get it though. For what kinda time/money/effort that goes in to a cheetah it isn't really worth it for most. But there has been some that have turned up that really screamed. That's all I'm saying.

You assume people are sheep minded because you are a sheep. Because Elka in your mind is a bigger name in dirt wheels you assume they are supposed to be worth more? Maybe they may sell faster but value wise any one who really knows what they are looking at will have no problem paying for axis if they are a serious buyer. Many guys I know that have rode on a national type level have sworn Axis' superiority over elka.

I tried this topic last time I swapped. Most were fans of the fact that delrin has some type of lubricity properties and that it tends to be quieter longer. The brass requires a competent installer and will have a tighter feel. Ultimately it will make a squeak noise sooner then the delrin but I like the feel of the brass ones in mine right now.

John, I know you had trouble. That was a while back. A lot of folks have messed with them now and their potential is starting to be reached. Not only are guys fixing the issues, they are finding out how to get them to really run hard. Admittedly it is the minority of the situation though. But, just because your cheetah didn't run that well doesn't mean it can't/isn't being done.

Guy I met in the dunes had one of those. He also also bitched about how it dragged the whole time he rode no matter how many times he tore it apart and lubed the pins.

ever heard of a G-tech? Maybe one of those can get you close may be a tenth or so off but it will get you a number that you can go off. They can mount in lots of race cars all sorts of ways so I bet they can be set up on the bars. Plus they save the run for you to look at. Might be easier then the gear I mentioned.

If it's a metal case saver just pitch it. It probably won't save your cases any way.

You are entitled to your opinion no matter how wrong it may be.

Exactly. Just be glad you had it fall apart at low speed. Stories like that make me shy away from being the ginuea pig

Mattoon can help ya out

Yeah, cones are cheap and easy. Surveyors wheels are cheap as well so you are accurate. Also, an IPhone aimed at the side of the bike from about 10 foot out helps to. Maybe a white mark on the side wall?

Get a radar gun and at least mark your start and finish points for a little more consistency. Maybe tripod the radar or aim it out 60 ft a few runs. Then the 100, the 200 or what ever distances you guys run. Finishing Mph is an ok guide but if you can watch your speed 60 ft out it might help you. Maybe take a big beach rake to get the line nice and consistent at least.

^ clearly that ball joint is a product of rider error! With the YFZ arms you're not supposed to drive through trails, whoops, jumps, dunes, puddles, or even drag strips. Everybody knows that they are only for rolling the quad in the garage and riding slowly through the pits.

Stock carbs are Mikuni. I'd say 27.5 pilot, needle 2nd from the bottom, 320/330 main. If there is any confusion on what carbs you have post a pic.

Honestly, those windows are a bit large but in a purpose built every trick in the book motor..... They are good for about 1 to 2 HP. Not really worth it.

Millennium! They did my brothers KX cylinder and two other companies said no way it was doable. They truly are surgeons over there.

And now, this is the part where exotic ideas like welded transfers & triple exhaust get tossed around......

That is probably the best way to get in to a good running banshee. There is usually a good running motor or two listed in the for sale section here. Also look at the complete bike section. Lotta guys willing to part out a bike if someone is willing to buy a complete motor or more. The other part is you can usually find out about what you are buying here from who. But the best thing is doing some research on identifying what it is you want the bike to do and knowing what combination of parts will work for your intended use. That way you know you're buying something that has already been sorted out.

Probably ok to hot lap it a few times then park it. Not much more then that.