trickedcarbine

Wrong, last month registered user established that the work in those photos was mine. And now here he is taking claim on my most A1 work.

^teuche. Well placed.

Hell yeah, where have you been fella? You and cattledog both dissapeared at the same time.

So once again we have.... " I have an idea what do you think?". Then it's followed with..... "No! Save your time and money". With a classic response of "yeah, I'm just gonna do it anyway. No, no, no, I don't care about how it will cost just as much and ride goofy" Dude, you just had guys who have done it tell you it's not a good idea. And cost really isn't cheaper. Not unless you have the parts already. Then there is cost to machine these spacers you need. Then there is the ride quality issue. It's a twitchy set up. Seriously, you may not want a race bike but you certainly don't wanna put a bunch of time and effort in to something that rides sketchy any way do ya? There are tons of used arms & shocks that pop up here a lot.

These are the show chrome pipes from shearer. These were put on my buddy's bike about a week ago. The show chrome is considerably nicer especially if you give it a good rub down and sealer before running them. We did see a few spots that weren't so hot but these things still look way more kick ass then my nickel. If it were me buying another new set, And wanting the absolute best quality...... I'd buy raw and have my chrome done my self at a really nice shop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Just go with whatever the guy with the biggest Johnson says.

Huh, no damage..... Uh, I mean some bent and damaged fins.

It isn't absolutely needed and by all means you can run a quality clutch with stiff springs. Or...... You can grab a nice lock up and use much lighter springs and have a much more desirable clutch feel. I even prefer a lock up and really light springs on more mild trail bikes. Couple that with a good transmission and you get a bike that rides way nicer.

Nay on any form of boost bottles.

You could spend money elsewhere. Those rims never get much love by many folks.

With the size of that motor, you probably wouldn't benefit the stuffer mod. I would maybe consider making sure the intake and reed openings are matched but that's about as far as you would have to go.

About the stuffers.... What reeds you running? VF3's?

Agree with float or needle and seat

Seen a ton of photos of that thing. It's kinda cool

Run the cartridge inside those transfers. No point in doing this work on all the port openings when they can't really flow through the tunnels. Don't gotta get crazy but there is quite a bit of material that can come out and still be safe.

Bump so people know it's junk

Better to give it a lil more tire then it needs then use the clutch to compensate.

Cool as fuck Brett! You guys thinking of doing short features on some of the cooler bikes you see?

I would at least do the next row out on each side.

Junk!

Double them up for that serval. Can't hurt

It sounds like you still have an open platform. To check that crank you should tear it down all the way. And to even start a build like you want I would suggest tearing it down anyway to freshen up any of the normal wear items. Also, don't bore that set of jugs chasing displacement in hopes of power. They can only go to 66 reliably and you won't see much gain in ruining cylinder life. As for the head set up, I would start calling some site sponsors and tell them what you want and they will get you domes for the fuel you want and your motor combo.

5-6 tops on that stuff with conservative compression. If you got domes optimized for the 98 already I'd say stay at +4

^ that or the narrowest pro taper fat bar you are comfortable with.

Armor all, mop glow, magic mop. All high gloss stuff that looks bitchin and keeps the mud off factory race bikes. Probably works for us nobodies who ride trails.