trickedcarbine

Whitbread came through. It took some time, but he knocked it out of the park. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll dump a few tonight after work.

The carbs are not helping as much as the head/domes.

You can definitely get the cylinders ported. If it’s already apart it would be worth making a few other easy and cheap upgrades that make the rest of the package run right. You’ll need domes for your set up, and a timing plate would be worth tossing on there. The carbs can be jetted for the new set up. A ported stock bore/stroke set up dialed in could make 60ish hp depending on how it’s set up.

Ducati Monster caliper is a Brembo. Both Cuervo Racing and Race Tech offer them in kits with a new Brembo opposing twin piston calipers with the mounting bracket and hardware.

Driveline cylinders run awesome. They offer new cases with a few improvements.

I paid to have a YFZ geometry banshee frame done. It was designed so that any yfz parts will bolt up. Only specific parts would be a lengthened yfz steering stem to clear the higher banshee tank, and a custom rear no link shock for your application. Jigs are not fancy, but would enable you to get a unit produced, and then build a production jig based off that. Let me know if you’re interested in renting the jig. I don’t know that I want to sell it out right as I still want the ability to do repairs on my junk if needed.

Those were Rockets.

Looks neato... But really it’s just reinventing the wheel.

Look up the DASA TRex. They were the same set up, just branded FMF. They are a bit of a dated motor by today’s standards, but they definitely ran decent. Hit up Tony Doukas Racing for any parts as he bought up the last of the T Rex inventory and makes some other parts.

Paging Possum Vargas...

Stand up buffer with tripoli and medium wheel to get through the oxidation. Fine wheel and tripoli to shine, fine wheel and rouge or green bar to finish it. Best hand polish you’ll ever touch will be Master Formula for finishing and the occasional hand buff.

Your idea of using one of the round tube pipe hangers like you see on the newer 4 strokes would be the best option. My originals had welded tabs and they vibrated and cracked. Once I did them with the round tube clamps with a rubber isolator in the top bolt hole, the excess vibration went away. Way more pleasant to ride. Plenty of options from summit, jegs, and other bike/atv suppliers. https://www.budracing-usa.com/us/replacement-stainless-bracket-with-alloy-red-support-for-bud-racing-2-stroke-silencer.html

100hp is pretty common these days. Depends on what you’re doing with it to determine what route to go. If you just like blasting the dunes and drag racing a 4mm cub will get you there. If you want to do dunes and trails and keep some low end, a bigger Serval may be the way to go. Either way, plenty of options.

Bottom of the intakes should have bore & stroke on one side and serv on the other.

Knobbie rules, if not switch to an American Racer or Hoosier.

What type of set up are they? Are they one of Harry’s old metal O ring sealed heads? Some of the big bore strokers he built many moons ago were pretty different. If you need more help, Harry sold Trinity to Dasa a number of years ago and is now just operating a smaller shop under https://www.mcdermottracing.com

Socialist media is rapidly becoming unbearable.

Definitely go with the 521. I assume you’ll be in some of the sand? Those dunes are massive. The 521 Serval will have gobs of torque. My buddy has a 521 serval on a stock length swing arm. I had my 535 cheetah on a -2 swing arm. Are you only planning on being in the sand out there or running some of that red hard pack in the trails?

Fireball is super nice stuff.

They used to be a big MX parts builder in the 90’s. Pretty sure they went under early 2000’s. Nice quality stuff. Glad you snatched that up from Rob so I didn’t spend money on it just to put it on a shelf.

Any pics of this build?

Stock cyls can definitely be ported to make a really usable 80hp with a 4mm stroker crank. That build would have plenty enough torque to help get the rear track going. That set up would be the cheapest power you could get with out any crazy machine work. If you insist on needing more power and going with an aftermarket cylinder, avoid the Athena stuff. They need a bit of machine work to be sorted out properly, where as the Driveline and CP Industries cylinders can be bolted on and make good reliable power. Then if you want more, they can be ported and make even more power.

You are suffering the same fate many drag racers do. You send the piston to 9-10k rpm and the carb is wide open sending fuel and oil to the piston and it’s happy feeding off wide open throttle. Low you let out and the motor is still in the upper RPM’s while you’ve closed the throttle and forced the piston to starve. That piston is still up around 8,500-9,000rpm and all it’s got feeding it after getting hot is the lonely ol’ pilot jet. You need to fatten up the pilot to accommodate and possibly change some of your riding habits. You really have to make sure that the bike is fed in the rpm’s even if you’re letting off and slowing down. Try rolling out of the throttle slowly while really realing the bike in and bringing the rpms down as quick as possible so it’s starve time is much shorter.

Most definitely. I’d imagine it taking off free revving pretty easily with that circuit wide open.