trickedcarbine

32:1 Blendzall. If you don’t have Blendzall, find any other performance castor bean oil. Castor927 is a pretty good one. Mix with fresh 110. If you’re buying from the Sunoco gas pump, make sure it’s a place with high turnover so the fuel is fresh. 9 range plug is just the heat range on plugs. Typically guys have an 8 heat range plug in them like B8es or BR8es. A 9 range plug is a cooler burning plug.

Full size trucks use poly/delrin bushings on front suspension components with out issue. So durability certainly isn’t an issue. The first time you experience having a swing arm pivot that doesn’t want to come apart due to failed bearings, you start to see just how stupid the bearing is.

Clusters and all that went in to my passion motor. I got lucky and even found the RZ forks. Slight, but nice upgrade. The earlier gear ratios are a little wider and when you have a built motor it’s nice to have the gear spread. That said, re gearing sprockets is cheaper. Or even do different primaries if you have a bigger motor and hate how fast 1-3 shifts are.

You would see more result with the timing then the carbs. If you want bigger carbs on that, go to 35’s if you want more top end charge. If you want more low end grunt, keep the stock carbs or maybe switch to 28’s-33’s. Going bigger on carbs, you would definitely lose a bit of that low end snap feeling.

I’ve gone through a few trinity motors with that same set up. At 160 psi with porting, the actual compression ratio will be a bit on the high side for sure. So you will definitely need to give it race fuel to keep the plugs from backing out. A 9 range plug may also help. Verify your stroke for sure stock is 54mm, 4mil Stroker is 58mm. Don’t be close, be sure Also, if you’re doing a 2/1 carb on a motor that size, make sure to have an upgraded larger single petcock, gutted check ball on gas cap, and a billit bowl on the carb. As far as squish test, you tube some of the South Texas Banshee stuff. He has video how to’s. You can also Google a guy that used to run a blog for banshees and blasters called MacDizzy. He used to put a lot of detail out on how to do all of that. Base gaskets play a role in all of this.

Cheap parts are plentiful on the Facebook pages. Takes a lot of sitting through stupid people though.

Do the A Arms, round house swing arm, shocks, brake lines, and any bushings/bearings. Order a 421 Serval or Cub top end. Cub is more wide open/drag, Serval is for play riding and the trail sections. Make sure to go over the entire low end. Bearings, clips, and clutch components.

That’s a premium pump fuel motor. You’d lose power trying to get it to light race gas.

Thanks Bernie! Timing plate, K&N Pro Flo intake, Cool head and domes. Any more then that and your gonna have to do pipes. Maybe you could do a set of Paul Turners in Black so they don’t catch on right away, but perhaps it would be more productive to oust your politicians up there.

Those ports need some chamfering if the piston rings will have a chance at living. The scratches are pretty minimal. I wouldn’t worry about them, if you fix the chamfering.

VP110 32:1 with Blendzall.

Upper 70’s hp. The big bore sleeves in a stock cylinder just don’t allow much transfer volume to make much more power with out welding.

5mil stroker is as far as you can go on a crank with out trenching. 6-70mm is about as big as you can go in bore/sleeve size with out having to bore the top case half.

Lectrons are ok, but the 36’s will be a bit big. Also no need to set them up for a pump. You won’t be moving that kind of fuel through the motor. Just get the dual pinguel petcock.

Old school member.

Lotta factors, but as far as stock cylinders go with out having a the exhaust port opened up to much, 150-155psi.

20cc domes put a 4mil stock cylinder motor in race gas territory. 93 will probably detonate. Keep the 20cc domes and give it 4 degrees of timing and feed it some 110. C12 or VP110 will keep it nice and happy. Race fuel typically benefits from being able to run higher compression and timing. Then you get in to oxygenated fuels and you see even greater potential. But just tossing race fuel in a motor built to run pump gas will actually make less power.

Op

The line where the case halves meet is what you dial the plate to. +4 is pretty widely used on pump gas motors with out a ton of compression. You have a real flywheel puller, right?

Internal porting looks stock, but no way to be sure if the pistons are still stock or not. Tear it down and get them to whoever will bore them and they will tell you what size pistons you need. Just get some new weiscos and gaskets to keep the cost down. If you let it go and the piston gives up, it’ll cost a lot more to fix.

Nope. Nothing wrong with it but the cost. Once the motor is jetted right, it shouldn’t fowl plugs so throw the eix on. I’ve had the EIX’s in my current set up for over a year.

The triple exhaust port work is what makes those cylinders move more then most. If the motor can eat and shit that much, the CPI will blow the T5’s outta the water and have about as much bottom end.

Usually. Some times the bolt hole eyelets crack and then let the plate loose. Then it bounces off the stator and flywheel. It can get pricey real quick.

Also, when it goes back together, make sure you don’t mix up the left and right carb bowls. Make sure to use a new line for the choke tube between the carbs. And check that the cut away on the carb slides face the back of the quad. All simple stuff, but sometimes guys get in a hurry and over look it and chase issues because they were sure they did it right. Double check everything.

If the rest of the motor is stock including air box, 27.5 pilot and 280 mains should get you right in the ball park. If it’s got pod filters, maybe 290-300 mains. Give it some fresh spark plugs, set the pick up gap on the flywheel, and see what it’ll do.