trickedcarbine

What pipes? Stock stroke crank?

If you’ve got pilots that fat in there and it’ll still lean hang, you’ve got an Air leak.

That thing could definitely use a little more pilot.

When you go up in elevation, you actually should be actually be using less fuel as the air is less dense. More then likely you can use the 290, but if it acts all blubbery you can drop it down to 280.

The original jets you had in there were spot on for that set up. Maybe drop the main to 280-290. But 27.5 pilot is what ya need.

Always get rid of parking brake wires and TORS

Update?

Flat

Seems kinda like a pretty light trail/mx type port. Not much real internal transfer work.

Race fuel? Like a cinnamon red?

Find an EEK needle before doing anything with it.

Get a new basket, inner hub, and make sure your pressure plate is good to go.

Flat slide > Round slide all day.

Nikasil bore?

Short cut. This guy already has dimensions for you.

Yes. I did on Rockets and T5’s. My oval track motors (high comp 4mils) start fighting heat real bad after about 10-12 laps so that’s what made me do some tinkering. I just never liked the T5’s, so that was the first set I cut up. I did big bore stingers on them, but it just made them even lazier on the bottom and not pull up top, so I swapped them back to the factory stingers. The Rockets gave me some pretty good results though. I put big bore stingers on the rockets and the bottom end felt the same and it actually let them pull a little more RPM. It totally got rid of the abrupt sign off they had like the SLP’s do. Plus the motor didn’t seem to fight the heat like it did and I was able to back off the main jet a size to get more power with out the extra heat.

SLP’s sign off quite early, so that’s a big contributor. Especially if you’re trying to run wide open for any period of time. You can do some gearing changes to compensate for it.

I’ve ran the Rad’s, VF2’s, VF3’s, & VF4’s. The Rad’s are not bad and have a really nice block that always seals up. But they won’t support the bigger aftermarket cylinders like all the V Force stuff.

On any two stroke, you’ll be hard pressed to get it to come on hard before 5k. Most of the mods you have help, but maybe a pipe change to SLP’s could help, but not much. The other option to really get it snappy would be to switch to race fuel and give it some more compression and timing.

Exactly.

Ya, time for a cheap frame swap. Or take that guy to court. Either way it’s gonna cost you time and money and ya might as well get to it.

Myth. Reed spacers and boost bottles are mythical gains.

I don’t recall Lone Star ever doing a production run of bikes. They do make nice stuff though. I’d bet it’s just Lone Star parts and someone tossed the stickers on to.

Find an early excited 440 intake.

20’s F. Start with the CGL’s second from the bottom clip. This will all probably be a little fat, but if it will still pull clean leave it be. If it’s a little blubbery, put the needle at middle clip, and back the main down one size at a time. Once the sun goes down on the ice, it’ll want more fuel. There were days where you start riding in the sun and make two jet changes as it gets colder when the day goes on and clouds come in or sun goes down. I’ve played with power jets and the Dial a jet on my old PJ’s and actually liked the dial a jet quite a bit. It lets you keep making the needed changes with out needing to pull the carbs to do mains.