JerzOutlaw350

So earlier last week I helped a friend out with his diesel pickup. He let his wife drive the truck to and from her work. So my friend forgot that the truck was low on fuel. He told her to stop on her way home from work and put some diesel in it. So she wound up putting $60 of gasoline in it. Here is Nj you pump your own diesel but gas is full service. So we over the holiday weekend we dropped the fuel tank and flush the fuel system out and installed a new fuel filter. We ended up with 30 gallons of contaminated diesel/gasoline mixed. Now to catch a fuel thief part. My neighbors 18yo son bought a 2020 Chevy 2500 HD with the Duramax at the beginning of May. So yesterday he came over and wanted to know if I could show him how to service his truck. Oil change, fuel filter and a new air filter. While I was showing him I happen to notice he was eye balling the 6- 5 gallon yellow diesel fuel cans sitting outside of my garage. So we get done servicing his truck and I told him that he needed fuel and that he should never let the fuel level get below 1/4 of a tank because then you start sucking up the water and other garbage on the bottom of the tank that’s not good for the fuel system. Now speed things up. This morning I come out of my house to go to my garage to get my e-trike out to go to work and noticed that the yellow diesel cans were moved in a different direction. So I checked my rear door ring camera and lo and behold the neighbors son and 2 of his friends came over at around 4:30am and carried the fuel cans away and then about 30 minutes later they came back and put the fuel cans back. So all I did was put my hand on my head and then SMH. I then leave for work at 6:30am and get down the street and at the 4 way stop I looked both ways and noticed the neighbors son’s truck sitting on the side of the road with it’s hazard lights on. I ride up and asked him what happened (not telling him that I knew what he did) he said he was on his way to school and that turned the corner and the truck started to make a funny noise and then shut off. A couple minutes later his dad shows up asking him what wrong and his son says he doesn’t know. So I pulled his dad off to side and then told him I know what happened and then I showed him exactly what happened. His dad got pissed off at his son. So earlier this evening my neighbor and his son came over and the son apologized to me for stealing the contents from the 6 yellow fuel cans. I offered to help them fix the truck but they refused and they said they had the truck towed to the dealership to get fixed and his son was responsible for getting it repaired.

So your Banshee is completely stock. So, No aftermarket exhaust or air filter? Now your clutch lever has 2 operating functions 1st is for clutch operation and the 2nd is for the parking brake. There’s a switch that’s in the clutch Perch that has wires that plugs into the harness. See if that is unplugged. If that is plugged in it will affect the way your CDI works and will make your Banshee run shit. Almost like what you are describing. It’s harder trying to diagnose a Banshee problem over the internet than it is in person.

Is your Banshee completely Stock? No, a CDI from an older Banshee will not work because the plugs are different from year to year and only the 02-06 are the same.

What’s the jetting in the carbs currently? Another issue is your Banshee is 20yrs old. The electrical system eventually starts to show its age from wear and tear. Do you have a friend or know someone with a Banshee from model year 2002-2006 that you could switch out the CDI with? Just to see if your CDI is working properly. There’s really no way to test the CDI other than switching them out for a known good running Banshee with working CDI.

Where are you located? If you’re local to me I would like to help you out with getting it running again.

Have you checked to see if your fuel petcock is working properly? Also make sure that your getting adequate fuel from the fuel tank to the carbs? There could be some garbage in the bottom of the fuel tank that is clogging up the screen on the petcock if you didn’t already clean it out. You can also open the drain screws on the carburetor bowls to see if the carburetors are full of fuel. If you got the air box removed stick the palm of your hand over each one of the carbs and kick over and see if you can feel any type of vacuum suction. Before installing the New reeds and reed blocks did look to see if the reed pedals were fully closed? Any type of light or openings around the pedals will cause a starting problem. I recently had someone bring me in their Banshee with a no start problem. It ran like a champ until he changed his reeds from the OEM setup to V-force 4’s. It wouldn’t start after he installed them. I got looking at it and it turned out that he bought counterfeit V-force 4 reeds from someone on eBay. I put his OEM reeds back in and it fired right up on the first kick.

When you deleted the TORS did you unplug the control unit that is bolted to the frame? It’s located under the left front of the fuel tank. There’s also a switch on the thumb throttle assembly that has to be unplugged or removed as well. Did you put the right slides back in the correct carburetors? Did you put the correct float bowls back on the correct carb? Did recheck your float height to the correct height? Did you also put the little bracket that has the 2 Phillips head screws that the throttle cable hooks to in the slides in the right position? Some people don’t know that they have to be put in the right way. Make sure you also sync the carbs and adjust your idle screw correctly. Sometimes simple little things over looked can be a PITA.

If the pipes are brand new and were never used it’s not a problem but if they were used for a period of time then it might be difficult to get them chromed. They will tell you that with them being used it would contaminate their preparation process. Like mentioned above Cascade Innovations does chroming or call Virgil @ Re Do Banshee <—— they are in the sponsor listings.

OEM only!!! The rest are garbage. Unless you want to waste your money then try the others. Just my $0.02

Post pictures using the Tapatalk app then search BansheeHQ. Once I get to see the pictures I might be able to steer you in the right direction on repairing the problem.

The 1st generation Tusk G-Force axle was a better design axle than the axle that they sell now. The 1st gen used the OEM axle nuts. RPM and Lonestar are the only two axles made till this day that you still have to use the OEM axle nuts. The Tusk and Durablue axle uses a 3 piece axle lock setup. Also the current version Tusk axle is a universal fit axle for the Banshee’s, Blaster’s and Raptor’s. The Durablue, Lonestar and RPM axles are all roughly in the same weight range and they are also roughly in the same price range.

I personally own a RPM Dominator ll axle. I love the axle. I’ve also sold a few RPM axles to other people who have been very happy with the RPM axle. The RPM axle I have replaced a Lonestar axle. I bent the Lonestar axle and their warranty was to send it to them to have it straightened. I got it back and a couple rides later the axle broke. Lonestar gave me a hard time about replacing it I finally told them to F-off and bought a RPM. If you purchase a RPM axle buy it directly from RPM and not from EBay. Two of the guys that I ride with in the group have Durablue axles on there banshee and they seem to be ok and another one has a Tusk axle and he has to keep checking and tightening his axle lock nut every time we go riding. He said eventually he is going to change the axle.

What type of fuel are you using? A few months ago I was working on a Banshee for a friend of one of guys that to that rides in our group. It was experiencing the same symptoms that you are describing. I went completely over the banshee from compression test to leak down test and exchanged carbs, reeds and even all the electrical part from an excellent running banshee and the symptoms were still there. It drove me absolutely nuts. I even drained the fuel to see if it was contaminated. It looked fine and so I put it back in and it still had the same symptoms. I then again drained all the fuel out and I even flushed the tank out and put some of my own fresh 32:1 pre-mix and the symptoms went away. So I talked with the owner and asked him what type of fuel he was using and he told me that he was running VP T2 fuel and mixing his fuel @ 32:1. He didn’t know that VP T2 comes already mixed @ 40:1 from VP racing. So he was adding 32:1 to fuel that was already pre-mixed @ 40:1. So the problem could be with your fuel that you are using. A lot of states start right around August to switch to winter blend fuel and fuel at your local gas stations are loaded ethanol which is not good for anything other than your car depending on the percentage of ethanol. I have everything I own from my 1987 Buick GNX all the way down to my weed whacker is on an ethanol free diet. In my area I can get ethanol free 95 octane Sunoco Optima at the pump locally.

If the OEM fenders didn’t come from an authorized Yamaha dealer then you bought OEM Yamaha knockoff fenders. There’s nothing wrong with them other then they seem a little bit thinner than OEM. There’s a guy who rides in our group that bought from them and he seems pretty happy with their plastics.

When I have my Banshee raised off the ground and I spin the rear tires I only get about 2-1/2 revolutions. The rear brake caliper and chain going to the transmission causes a good amount of resistance. If you remove the caliper and chain it will spin more freely. Also make sure that you didn’t over tighten the axle nuts.