trickedcarbine

20’s F. Start with the CGL’s second from the bottom clip. This will all probably be a little fat, but if it will still pull clean leave it be. If it’s a little blubbery, put the needle at middle clip, and back the main down one size at a time. Once the sun goes down on the ice, it’ll want more fuel. There were days where you start riding in the sun and make two jet changes as it gets colder when the day goes on and clouds come in or sun goes down. I’ve played with power jets and the Dial a jet on my old PJ’s and actually liked the dial a jet quite a bit. It lets you keep making the needed changes with out needing to pull the carbs to do mains.

Titties! It’s important to be seen when riding at night.

4mil Serval.

For realz? Seriously? Now you won’t have to destroy the rental at the HQ rides?

Going from 160+ down to 120+ is 40psi. Typically when doing stock cylinder stuff is about 1cc per 10psi. So you’re talking about roughly 4cc worth of gasket material making that difference. I just don’t see the base gasket cut making up that much volume. Plus, the piston crown is never even going below the base gasket for its volume to even matter. Thickness would be the only difference that could cause those numbers to change. Dont waste the guys time at the shop with such a silly assumption. Figure out what the base gasket thickness is and head gasket thickness is. And fire it up and seat the rings before making any accusations at the shop.

Keep watching the FB Pages. You’ve gotta be quick and be willing to pay top dollar. With those things, time negotiating is time wasted and someone will just swoop in under ya to grab them.

What clutch set up? What gearing? How high is the rear sitting?

Can’t hurt to toss some fresh rings at it while you’re in there.

I used to run a very similar combo on the ice. Turn the choke knobs in all the way and mark the knobs. Turn them back out 7 1/2 turns. Run the air screws in all the way and back them out 1/2-3/4 of a turn. 58-60 pilots, 160-165 mains. That set up won’t move as much air and fuel as other modern set ups with similar displacement as the big bore sleeves tend to choke out the transfer areas a little bit. What needles do you have in the carbs? CGL or CEL?

Fire it up and seat the rings. Then check it.

Bel Ray or Amsoil Super Shift ATF. Really you can run whatever oil is wet clutch compatible. The cheapo ATF is fine, just needs to be changed more frequently.

Pin let go.

If water and jetting was issue on your stockers, that’s typically a sign that the slide guide/plug is leaking as well as the seal on the caps.

Those ASI cheapos on EBay have actually proven to be reliable.

If Duncan told you to run higher octane, you had better heed their advice. They know their stuff and they know what their motor will need. If you short change that motor on octane, you’ll be rebuilding it in no time. Works is back up and running, so you should be able to call them for parts or to have them serviced. There are even a few other guys that service the works stuff and have been making their own parts for them. As far as that throttle cable, you’ll Definitely need a cable for those carbs, and possibly even a set of the taller adjusters that go in to the tops of the carbs. Those can be found at F.A.S.T.

Meth

^ That’s a good start. But seeing the damage is how you figure out what happened. Is the ring melty and bent, or cracked clean and twisted? What does the edge of the piston crown just above the ring look like, etc.

I’m curious how you can tune Lectrons, but don’t know where to go on the other stuff you’re jetting? Usually it’s the opposite for many folks. They can tune the normal Mikuni sand Keihin carbs but don’t know what to do with a Lectron. Knowledge like that puts you a leg up.

I believe FMF has them on their site.

If you don’t have the space to do a plug chop properly, just do a little studying on how to read the base ring and electrode. At this point you’re just cutting up plugs looking for a result you won’t get properly without running 6th wide open. Sure it’s nice to know there is a perfect ring inside the plug on the porcelain, but there are plenty of other ways to read a plug with out chopping them. If you’re adamant that you want a smoke ring, you’ll need to find the space to do it right.

Any photos?

Motors can certainly run on that tight of a squish, but I’d be leary of running a pump gas motor at .040 . Typically the tightest you see pump gas at is .050 plus. .045 at the minimum, but be conservative on the timing.

Go 21’s if you wanna be on pump fuel. 19cc’s are typically showing much more compression then that. I’d suspect that there is some pretty thick gaskets in that set up or the gauge is a bit off. Potted motors can read much lower when comp testing, but it sounded like your’s is kind of mild. What was squish on the motor?

I’m appalled at the leave it in the crate remarks. If you wanna ride, put it together with fresh fluids, lube everything, do a leak down on the motor, dialectric grease all the electrical, adjust the pick up gap, and ride the shit out of it! The only reason to leave it in the crate would be to sell it and rape someone looking for a cherry new bike in a crate. Otherwise, ride it!

Wait... .040-.045 (that’s what those mm numbers are about) squish for pump gas?! And the builder said run it? 🤦🏻‍♂️