trickedcarbine

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Stand up buffer with tripoli and medium wheel to get through the oxidation. Fine wheel and tripoli to shine, fine wheel and rouge or green bar to finish it. Best hand polish you’ll ever touch will be Master Formula for finishing and the occasional hand buff.

Your idea of using one of the round tube pipe hangers like you see on the newer 4 strokes would be the best option. My originals had welded tabs and they vibrated and cracked. Once I did them with the round tube clamps with a rubber isolator in the top bolt hole, the excess vibration went away. Way more pleasant to ride. Plenty of options from summit, jegs, and other bike/atv suppliers. https://www.budracing-usa.com/us/replacement-stainless-bracket-with-alloy-red-support-for-bud-racing-2-stroke-silencer.html

100hp is pretty common these days. Depends on what you’re doing with it to determine what route to go. If you just like blasting the dunes and drag racing a 4mm cub will get you there. If you want to do dunes and trails and keep some low end, a bigger Serval may be the way to go. Either way, plenty of options.

Bottom of the intakes should have bore & stroke on one side and serv on the other.

Knobbie rules, if not switch to an American Racer or Hoosier.

What type of set up are they? Are they one of Harry’s old metal O ring sealed heads? Some of the big bore strokers he built many moons ago were pretty different. If you need more help, Harry sold Trinity to Dasa a number of years ago and is now just operating a smaller shop under https://www.mcdermottracing.com

Socialist media is rapidly becoming unbearable.

Definitely go with the 521. I assume you’ll be in some of the sand? Those dunes are massive. The 521 Serval will have gobs of torque. My buddy has a 521 serval on a stock length swing arm. I had my 535 cheetah on a -2 swing arm. Are you only planning on being in the sand out there or running some of that red hard pack in the trails?

Fireball is super nice stuff.

They used to be a big MX parts builder in the 90’s. Pretty sure they went under early 2000’s. Nice quality stuff. Glad you snatched that up from Rob so I didn’t spend money on it just to put it on a shelf.

Any pics of this build?

Stock cyls can definitely be ported to make a really usable 80hp with a 4mm stroker crank. That build would have plenty enough torque to help get the rear track going. That set up would be the cheapest power you could get with out any crazy machine work. If you insist on needing more power and going with an aftermarket cylinder, avoid the Athena stuff. They need a bit of machine work to be sorted out properly, where as the Driveline and CP Industries cylinders can be bolted on and make good reliable power. Then if you want more, they can be ported and make even more power.

You are suffering the same fate many drag racers do. You send the piston to 9-10k rpm and the carb is wide open sending fuel and oil to the piston and it’s happy feeding off wide open throttle. Low you let out and the motor is still in the upper RPM’s while you’ve closed the throttle and forced the piston to starve. That piston is still up around 8,500-9,000rpm and all it’s got feeding it after getting hot is the lonely ol’ pilot jet. You need to fatten up the pilot to accommodate and possibly change some of your riding habits. You really have to make sure that the bike is fed in the rpm’s even if you’re letting off and slowing down. Try rolling out of the throttle slowly while really realing the bike in and bringing the rpms down as quick as possible so it’s starve time is much shorter.

Most definitely. I’d imagine it taking off free revving pretty easily with that circuit wide open.

32:1 Blendzall. If you don’t have Blendzall, find any other performance castor bean oil. Castor927 is a pretty good one. Mix with fresh 110. If you’re buying from the Sunoco gas pump, make sure it’s a place with high turnover so the fuel is fresh. 9 range plug is just the heat range on plugs. Typically guys have an 8 heat range plug in them like B8es or BR8es. A 9 range plug is a cooler burning plug.

Full size trucks use poly/delrin bushings on front suspension components with out issue. So durability certainly isn’t an issue. The first time you experience having a swing arm pivot that doesn’t want to come apart due to failed bearings, you start to see just how stupid the bearing is.

Clusters and all that went in to my passion motor. I got lucky and even found the RZ forks. Slight, but nice upgrade. The earlier gear ratios are a little wider and when you have a built motor it’s nice to have the gear spread. That said, re gearing sprockets is cheaper. Or even do different primaries if you have a bigger motor and hate how fast 1-3 shifts are.

You would see more result with the timing then the carbs. If you want bigger carbs on that, go to 35’s if you want more top end charge. If you want more low end grunt, keep the stock carbs or maybe switch to 28’s-33’s. Going bigger on carbs, you would definitely lose a bit of that low end snap feeling.

I’ve gone through a few trinity motors with that same set up. At 160 psi with porting, the actual compression ratio will be a bit on the high side for sure. So you will definitely need to give it race fuel to keep the plugs from backing out. A 9 range plug may also help. Verify your stroke for sure stock is 54mm, 4mil Stroker is 58mm. Don’t be close, be sure Also, if you’re doing a 2/1 carb on a motor that size, make sure to have an upgraded larger single petcock, gutted check ball on gas cap, and a billit bowl on the carb. As far as squish test, you tube some of the South Texas Banshee stuff. He has video how to’s. You can also Google a guy that used to run a blog for banshees and blasters called MacDizzy. He used to put a lot of detail out on how to do all of that. Base gaskets play a role in all of this.

Cheap parts are plentiful on the Facebook pages. Takes a lot of sitting through stupid people though.

Do the A Arms, round house swing arm, shocks, brake lines, and any bushings/bearings. Order a 421 Serval or Cub top end. Cub is more wide open/drag, Serval is for play riding and the trail sections. Make sure to go over the entire low end. Bearings, clips, and clutch components.

That’s a premium pump fuel motor. You’d lose power trying to get it to light race gas.

Thanks Bernie! Timing plate, K&N Pro Flo intake, Cool head and domes. Any more then that and your gonna have to do pipes. Maybe you could do a set of Paul Turners in Black so they don’t catch on right away, but perhaps it would be more productive to oust your politicians up there.

Those ports need some chamfering if the piston rings will have a chance at living. The scratches are pretty minimal. I wouldn’t worry about them, if you fix the chamfering.