trickedcarbine

Ya, dickelz/picklez did. G4C was just a custo I believe. That was one of my favorite eras here. Shit was hoppin. People were talking lots of shit. New products galore. Lotta cool builds were posted here before FB got huge. Matt was still around here making people want to kill us or them selves. Hell, even you were almost still relavant. 🤣

Check all of the above. ^ Ricky, ricks, or RM stator? Check the pick up gap. That’s the sensor to the flywheel tabs. Check the spark plug boots and make sure the end of the wire is also good. Do the spark plugs have solid tops or do they have that bull shit twist on top?

There is always going to be folks interested, however nobody will be serious till they see a set actually done.

It would definitely be about the same jetting. It’s possible you’ll be better off with the 27.5’s and maybe even 270 mains, but definitely start fatter with the 280.

Did you visually verify that the carbs are opening all the way with the filters off? Some of the twist throttles require the longer adjusters on the carb tops. It’s also possible the jetting needs to be sorted out to have full power as well.

They can be made to work, I believe you have to shorten the silencers from the front side of the can. But why go through all the trouble?

With a motor set up like that you’re kind of at the limit of what a stock style clutch can hold on to. There are 8 plate options, but the cheaper quicker option would be to just do a lock up. Finger style if you’re a drag racer, sling shot if your running anything else imo.

I know it’s an old post, but if you still want a Sundahl bumper, I’ve got one I’d sell ya.

Pod filters or an airbox? No other engine mods, head work, or timing plate/key?

Seems like more folks are on FB to talk about red bull Vs monster color schemes.

🖕😂🖕

Friggin’ send it!

Best sound and it lasts quite a while.

Smoke, eh? Better stick to reading plugs if you want yours to live. To be honest after you learn how to tune a motor, you’ll see that chopping plugs is kind of not needed either. There is a wealth of info to be had just by looking at the end of a plug.

To make sure you don’t have the same issue that the OP did, you don’t have an adjustable timing plate behind the Stator do ya? If so, it needs to be set at zero while you run the Dyna curves.

Those look like knock offs. And only one of each, you’ll need 2 of each. Only run the Genuine Keihin Jets. Maybe RD jets if you’re in a pinch.

The older version of the Dyna had dip switches on the unit it self. If yours had the tether switch, there were dip switches on the bottom with markings to indicate the dip combination for each curve. If the switching is removed, it should function on the “Stock” curve. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

42/45 pilot, needle middle clip to start, 142-145 main. Depending on the portwork it may be wise to grab a set of 148’s just in case it wants more. You’re gonna love the PWK’s. Set the air screw out about 3/4-1 turn and then set the idle screws on the slides.

Leave it at 4

There are a few common items guys will use to pack them. Lots of folks are using fiber glass insulation. It’s short lived, but quiet and cheap. Then there is the actual Two stroke fiber packing, it’s quiet, sounds ok, and lives a long life, but it’s expensive. Then there is good ol’ fashioned steel wool. It’s cheap, sounds awesome, but it can spark and isn’t very quiet.

How built is the motor, and what clutch kit? Have you double checked all the adjustments on the clutch? (9 out of 10 times it’s this) If there are any concerns with the parking brake or Tors systems, do a bypass to verify they aren’t the culprits.

27.5 -30 pilots, 280 mains. The 30 pilot may be kinda fat, but with the timing plate it could help keep it cooler.

This would probably be worth a look. It’s basically a whole bunch of different set ups with sorted out jetting figures. So take a look and see where guys with your same set up have ended up.

Mikuni and Keihin carbs are totally different Jets. There are some charts out there that show a corresponding jet from Mikuni to Keihin. However it will probably only get you in the ball park as there are other variables. So going up in carb size changes the pulse signal at the bell of the carb so that changes jetting. Then I believe you mentioned you have some sort of porting on your cylinders, that’ll mean more fuel as well even if you keep your stock carbs. Those jet numbers from DMC are for an otherwise stock machine, so if you have pod filters and some kind of porting those jets will leave your machine wanting more fuel. Not enough fuel melts pistons and then some.

28’s would only be a marginal gain in power, but you will gain a bit of torque and have a much more responsive ride. You could step in to some 33’s, but they would be overkill for what you’ve got and you’d lose bottom end. What 30’s were you looking at? If they’re OKO’s jdont bother.