trickedcarbine

Short cut. This guy already has dimensions for you.

Yes. I did on Rockets and T5’s. My oval track motors (high comp 4mils) start fighting heat real bad after about 10-12 laps so that’s what made me do some tinkering. I just never liked the T5’s, so that was the first set I cut up. I did big bore stingers on them, but it just made them even lazier on the bottom and not pull up top, so I swapped them back to the factory stingers. The Rockets gave me some pretty good results though. I put big bore stingers on the rockets and the bottom end felt the same and it actually let them pull a little more RPM. It totally got rid of the abrupt sign off they had like the SLP’s do. Plus the motor didn’t seem to fight the heat like it did and I was able to back off the main jet a size to get more power with out the extra heat.

SLP’s sign off quite early, so that’s a big contributor. Especially if you’re trying to run wide open for any period of time. You can do some gearing changes to compensate for it.

I’ve ran the Rad’s, VF2’s, VF3’s, & VF4’s. The Rad’s are not bad and have a really nice block that always seals up. But they won’t support the bigger aftermarket cylinders like all the V Force stuff.

On any two stroke, you’ll be hard pressed to get it to come on hard before 5k. Most of the mods you have help, but maybe a pipe change to SLP’s could help, but not much. The other option to really get it snappy would be to switch to race fuel and give it some more compression and timing.

Exactly.

Ya, time for a cheap frame swap. Or take that guy to court. Either way it’s gonna cost you time and money and ya might as well get to it.

Myth. Reed spacers and boost bottles are mythical gains.

I don’t recall Lone Star ever doing a production run of bikes. They do make nice stuff though. I’d bet it’s just Lone Star parts and someone tossed the stickers on to.

Find an early excited 440 intake.

20’s F. Start with the CGL’s second from the bottom clip. This will all probably be a little fat, but if it will still pull clean leave it be. If it’s a little blubbery, put the needle at middle clip, and back the main down one size at a time. Once the sun goes down on the ice, it’ll want more fuel. There were days where you start riding in the sun and make two jet changes as it gets colder when the day goes on and clouds come in or sun goes down. I’ve played with power jets and the Dial a jet on my old PJ’s and actually liked the dial a jet quite a bit. It lets you keep making the needed changes with out needing to pull the carbs to do mains.

Titties! It’s important to be seen when riding at night.

4mil Serval.

For realz? Seriously? Now you won’t have to destroy the rental at the HQ rides?

Going from 160+ down to 120+ is 40psi. Typically when doing stock cylinder stuff is about 1cc per 10psi. So you’re talking about roughly 4cc worth of gasket material making that difference. I just don’t see the base gasket cut making up that much volume. Plus, the piston crown is never even going below the base gasket for its volume to even matter. Thickness would be the only difference that could cause those numbers to change. Dont waste the guys time at the shop with such a silly assumption. Figure out what the base gasket thickness is and head gasket thickness is. And fire it up and seat the rings before making any accusations at the shop.

Keep watching the FB Pages. You’ve gotta be quick and be willing to pay top dollar. With those things, time negotiating is time wasted and someone will just swoop in under ya to grab them.

What clutch set up? What gearing? How high is the rear sitting?

Can’t hurt to toss some fresh rings at it while you’re in there.

I used to run a very similar combo on the ice. Turn the choke knobs in all the way and mark the knobs. Turn them back out 7 1/2 turns. Run the air screws in all the way and back them out 1/2-3/4 of a turn. 58-60 pilots, 160-165 mains. That set up won’t move as much air and fuel as other modern set ups with similar displacement as the big bore sleeves tend to choke out the transfer areas a little bit. What needles do you have in the carbs? CGL or CEL?

Fire it up and seat the rings. Then check it.

Bel Ray or Amsoil Super Shift ATF. Really you can run whatever oil is wet clutch compatible. The cheapo ATF is fine, just needs to be changed more frequently.

Pin let go.

If water and jetting was issue on your stockers, that’s typically a sign that the slide guide/plug is leaking as well as the seal on the caps.

Those ASI cheapos on EBay have actually proven to be reliable.

If Duncan told you to run higher octane, you had better heed their advice. They know their stuff and they know what their motor will need. If you short change that motor on octane, you’ll be rebuilding it in no time. Works is back up and running, so you should be able to call them for parts or to have them serviced. There are even a few other guys that service the works stuff and have been making their own parts for them. As far as that throttle cable, you’ll Definitely need a cable for those carbs, and possibly even a set of the taller adjusters that go in to the tops of the carbs. Those can be found at F.A.S.T.