trickedcarbine

Those look like knock offs. And only one of each, you’ll need 2 of each. Only run the Genuine Keihin Jets. Maybe RD jets if you’re in a pinch.

The older version of the Dyna had dip switches on the unit it self. If yours had the tether switch, there were dip switches on the bottom with markings to indicate the dip combination for each curve. If the switching is removed, it should function on the “Stock” curve. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

42/45 pilot, needle middle clip to start, 142-145 main. Depending on the portwork it may be wise to grab a set of 148’s just in case it wants more. You’re gonna love the PWK’s. Set the air screw out about 3/4-1 turn and then set the idle screws on the slides.

Leave it at 4

There are a few common items guys will use to pack them. Lots of folks are using fiber glass insulation. It’s short lived, but quiet and cheap. Then there is the actual Two stroke fiber packing, it’s quiet, sounds ok, and lives a long life, but it’s expensive. Then there is good ol’ fashioned steel wool. It’s cheap, sounds awesome, but it can spark and isn’t very quiet.

How built is the motor, and what clutch kit? Have you double checked all the adjustments on the clutch? (9 out of 10 times it’s this) If there are any concerns with the parking brake or Tors systems, do a bypass to verify they aren’t the culprits.

27.5 -30 pilots, 280 mains. The 30 pilot may be kinda fat, but with the timing plate it could help keep it cooler.

This would probably be worth a look. It’s basically a whole bunch of different set ups with sorted out jetting figures. So take a look and see where guys with your same set up have ended up.

Mikuni and Keihin carbs are totally different Jets. There are some charts out there that show a corresponding jet from Mikuni to Keihin. However it will probably only get you in the ball park as there are other variables. So going up in carb size changes the pulse signal at the bell of the carb so that changes jetting. Then I believe you mentioned you have some sort of porting on your cylinders, that’ll mean more fuel as well even if you keep your stock carbs. Those jet numbers from DMC are for an otherwise stock machine, so if you have pod filters and some kind of porting those jets will leave your machine wanting more fuel. Not enough fuel melts pistons and then some.

28’s would only be a marginal gain in power, but you will gain a bit of torque and have a much more responsive ride. You could step in to some 33’s, but they would be overkill for what you’ve got and you’d lose bottom end. What 30’s were you looking at? If they’re OKO’s jdont bother.

Sounds like a welded ball and rod. Sometimes they come out easily, some times they don’t. Definitely rebuilt it with a pancake bearing.

Not a bad set up if the power is there to turn it. For his, he’s not pushing much power and riding open roads, so that’s quite a bit of gearing to try to pull.

If you’re having trouble tuning stock carbs, you’ll melt a motor with lectrons. I could help ya, but I’ve gotta know the piston info to be sure. And your porting info was vague. So if you don’t know your own bike, how can folks give you proper info? The Vito’s power pistons simulate porting, so they require more fuel. If you’re unsure and want a guess in the wind, throw a 30 pilot and 310-320 main in it and work down.

I’m heading kicker rattle and possible exhaust rattle. Check the exhaust mounts, springs, and clamps. Another typical rattle is the left side pipe touching the head of the clamps aren’t spaced on certain pipes.

Yes. That’s a pretty big deal. Running it like that could melt a piston. And will definitely cause it to rev and lean hang. One more thing to check before firing it is all of the throttle cable ends. It’s easy to bump a cable during assembly and get the outer sheath hung up on one of the carb adjusters or the ends where the 2/1 or throttle housing is.

This^ I’ve never met a complainer that had a fucking clue.

Been sorting out my buddy’s Blizzard with 600 SDI. What a pain in the nuts to work in there.

So The Boris = Booxzzy?

Is he still in business?

30 pilot, 280-290 main, needle second clip from bottom.

Did you check compression after this happened?

If it’s revving onnits own and trying to runaway, that’s gonna be a prime indicator for an air leak. I’d check compression before going further. If it’s still got good equal compression, do a leak down to find the air leak.

^ pretty much.

15-39?

One question. Are they the Vitos power pistons with the reliefs on the edges of the crown?