odaen

I'll see if I can work something up for ya, Jeff....

From: dave moore racing <[email protected]> To: Bruce K <[email protected]> Date: Sep 26, 2005 11:50 AM Subject: Re: Nology Coil/Banshee Ignition question Reply | Reply to all | Forward | Print | Add sender to Contacts list | Delete this message | Report phishing | Show original | Message text garbled? Bruce- Although I have not personally tested the nology set, I have talked with a few of my friends who have dyno's who have tested. Out of the people I have spoken to, none have reported increases, but 2 have reported decreases in HP output. Like I said, I have not tested it personally, so this is second hand information. Thanks -Dave

lmao Have ol' champ send it to me for a week or 2 and I'll dyno stock vs nology. Then, people can dispute the dyno results I have an email around somewhere from Dave Moore talking about Nology coils. A couple of friends of his have dyno'd the nology coils and either didn't gain any performance or lost performance. My builder had the same experience. It could vary bike to bike, CDI to CDI........but I'd like to see the results first hand. My opinion would initially be largely aligned with what those builders have said.

do you have the stock length chain tensioner screws in your carrier? pretty confident you can adjust more than a full link with the stock carrier. if you have the jingle for a sidewinder chain, you might wanna look into getting a round housing swingarm and carrier setup. it makes it so much nicer for adjusting chain tension.... no scuffed up knuckles either

I'd probably talk to Vito's about their recommendations for jetting. I'm guessing that 340's would be lean, but not really sure what your elevation and temperature is. If you just used a spacer plate, your transfer durations are gonna be very high. If it were me, I'd probably take it to a reputable builder and see what their recommendations are to get the most out of your money.

.080 over if it's stock stroke

go with an aftermarket one. I think they range in price from 30 to 100 bucks. they work very nice.

The best thing to do would be to ask who wound it. If that fails, ask Ricky Stator how they rate their stators, in terms of power rating, and see if you know enough about the new stator to calculate it. I wouldn't recommend trying to load your stator to find the rating. The armature wire that they are wound with has a very thin insulation on it to keep the wires as tight to each other as possible. If you try and pull too much current through the stator, the wire could heat, melting the insulation and shorting the winding at that spot to an adjacent winding. Additionally, loading the stator won't give you a safe continuous wattage estimate.

Cameron @ Redline has been offering the dunable override for awhile now.

only know of one person that sent their motor there, and in my opinion, he got raped badly. he'll post here if he wants to, he's on hq every day. but, don't be surprised if your total bill is quite a bit higher than anticipated....

He needed some domes cut for negative deck height (or positive if that's how you refer to it)? Yeah, Dan is a smart mofo with a 2 stroke motor. If I didn't have a good relationship with my local builder, Dan would probably get all of my business.

makes sense now, because I never leave home without the ol' buttplug..... DIKK

I've been called a human tripod....no idea what it means...

148 main, 45 pilot and whatever needle was in it...... that was for a 4mm dune port with CPI's

thought you were inferring he could get it new for that much......

let me know your source for this $800 kit, without the trinity porting, and I'm sure I could keep him quite busy

or buy another set off fleabay. ducman's selling a complete 4mm top end for 500, dunno what crank you have...

honestly don't remember having a problem with my bike idling. wonder if your pilot is too fat or something. For fuel line, I actually got mine from my builder, since he's got a bunch of different types and sizes in stock. Make damn sure when you put your new lines on, that you don't have them touching the exhaust. I ran CPI's, and I had to use a zip tie to keep the fuel line away.

sweet, had a feeling it was something in the carbs... glad you got it running again

Yeah, I've had them. The throttle cable is a different part number, much the same trouble as you would have buying any Keihin carb. If you think the boot to the airbox was a bitch, try getting the pods for stock carbs around them Fuel line is stocked at any parts store. Anyway, don't get discouraged, they are good carbs for your motor. Whenever you put a new part on your bike, you gotta take some of this into account. Rarely does everything just work the first time

not sure anyone would argue that powdercoating is a nicer look, but it's just gonna come down to your budget.

detonation can cause plugs to work loose.

Just my opinion, not the nicest looking stuff, but it is functional I guess. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57580

You can just unplug the TORS module, which is located just in front of the fuel petcock on the frame. It's a black thing that looks important, but looks can be deceiving

still pretty much a newb here, myself. in the time I've been here though, I've managed to soak up a good deal of info on suspension as well as motor performance. yeah, you have to weed through a pile of topics to find a good one. I hope that I'm not one of the people that you describe, Wheatchex. Peace