odaen

I don't think they are really intended for drag motors, honestly. I think they're in the same class as T5's and the other flavors. The guy that goes by "." swears by them though, might wanna send him a PM and ask him about them.

not the crankcases themselves, but the seal may be bad. never had one go out myself.

i'm not surprised, heh. I can see the blinds flicker in my neighbors' houses when I start my shee.

he has DMC aliens in his sig, heard they were a good mx pipe, so I just ignored pipes altogether.

35 for the timing plate 50ish for surfacing the head for compression 300ish + Pistons for porting With all of those, you'll have a completely different motor

porting....some timing advance, compression all come to mind

\ stock, as in the OEM stockers, or the stock shearer silencers? the stock shearer silencers are probably around 99dB, mebbe more....very loud

the impellar, you could probably get off ebay for about $50 + shipping

If it has enough compression to start when you put gas directly in the cylinder, I'd strongly doubt it would be the rings. I'd pull the lines off your carbs and make sure fuel can flow to them, then there's a screw to drain the bowls, I'd loosen that and make sure there was gas in the bowls. If gas is in the bowls, it's gotta be a clogged pilot and clogged main, or you have a massive leak between the carbs and cylinders allowing lots of air to flow in easier than fuel and air from the carbs.

porting is the 2nd best bang for the buck after pipes. not everyone that is wanting their cylinders ported is gonna want a cub setup. cubs will indirectly hit the wallet harder (carbs, swingarm, clutch) more than just porting your stockers. yes, they will develop a ton more HP in most cases, but if you are wanting a mx/dune port rather than a drag port, a cub is excessive. so, what are your needs? where you gonna ride your shee? what is your skill level? what is your budget? those are questions that you should contemplate, and then people can help you with recommendations.

sounds like a decent setup for a woods/trail bike, hope it works out for ya. personally, I think a 250R would be a better choice for this kinda thing, but to each his own. fwiw, rocketboy's ported quite a few cylinders, from LT250R's to CR500's. I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss his abilities because you haven't heard of his work.

rocky mountain atv sells them pretty cheap too. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/search.do?...ypeId=&navType=

Mine would hang up, when I disengaged it, so I was effectively riding around with the rear brake on, until the pads wore down. Removed it and took the rest of the TORS crap out at the same time.

RNBrad's right. Only time you'd need a spacer plate is if you put a longer stroke crank in and and wanted to change the deck height.

True dat Read WesW's response. Hit the nail on the head. For some good info, check out the Dumont, California section on Planet Sand. Banshee Wars III was last weekend. KOTH Memorial Day at Fallon will be another huge turnout for some of the big guys. And, the Planet Sand drags that are sometime this spring. K&T A&S SSR are all consistently in the mix wherever they run.

sweet, thanks, man. bet a good deal of their business is jet-ski's. was in Redding a couple of times this summer, and holy hell. I've never been anywhere where the wind was gusting like 20-30 and it was over 100 degrees. The breeze was definitely not refreshing. I'll bet the albino population is nil there, I swear I was looking for a red mofaka with a pitchfork....

Ducman, who's your builder near Redding?

argh, brainfart... yeah, my a-arms have a different type of ball joint that screws in vertically to the a-arm, so they can't be adjusted there. But, yeah, BigLobsterF'nRed is right.

Camber is set by the a-arms themselves. Most recreational a-arms aren't adjustable. When you get into the MX series arms, you get into camber/caster adjustable arms. You can see in the pic, where the upper arms connect to the frame, there's an adjustable heim. This is where you would set the camber.

I know there are better oils, but I've used Yamalube 32:1 since I've had my shee.

there are different o-rings you can buy as well. I think CPI's come stock with some beefy ones you could try out. I run them in my shearers now, because I got sick of watching them leak. It was a bitch getting the pipes over the exhaust flange, I mean a real bitch.

Oregon's probably the worst F'n state to get your shit stolen too. You don't need a title or proof of ownership to get an off road sticker for them, so titles are pretty much worthless until you go to sell it. Sorry to hear, Schizo. Post some pics ASAP, so people can keep an eye out for them or for distinguishing parts.

wes, hard to argue with a fellow tittie lover. keep that bike, man. build your drag bike separate, there are always good deals on PS for complete rollers.

I'd pull the hoses to the carbs and turn the gas on, and see if any comes out the hoses. If gas comes out, the problem is in the carbs. If no gas comes out, might wanna pull the petcock and see if the screen is clogged and not allowing fuel to pass through.

Finally found it...wiring diagram http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html