odaen

Haha, I'm just trying to imagine a crack in anything on BBB's bike. Fucking thing is cleaner than the dishes I eat off. The snow on it in the back of his truck made it look dirty. The odds are against you if you replace the top half. Almost certainly, your first trip out, you'd toss another chain and take a good chunk out of the new one.

For the 110mm rod 4mm cub, Calvin recommends using the 9768M06800 series pistons with a .022" base gasket.

where are you located?

Porting will run you another $200 once you throw in the new pistons and gaskets, but if you have those funds available, I'd highly recommend it. You will have a completely different motor. You can get those reeds for under $200 if you buy them off ebay.

My CPI's fit flawlessly when I bought them. My shearers on the other hand......the left side is just a pain in the ass. The pipe wants to hit the head. If I space it out farther on the front mount, the stingers have clearance issues and the silencer doesn't want to line up. It's all good though, cause they pull like a freight train.

If you made it 18 and over, only about 10 people would have access anyway

they still make mac's?

Drilling the vent in the gas cap will help the gas flow better so the bowls don't run dry.

you have a PM on the tranny

probably get a better response from planet sand. more drag racers and people with money over there. price alone would keep them out of my hands

They're really starting to crack down on sound here at the dunes in Oregon. The limit for most dunes is 93dB here. So, you gotta shell out $300 for some cascades to meet the ridiculous sound requirements.

Durablue HD axle, shearer sb inframe stingers/silencers http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...me=STRK:MESE:IT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...me=STRK:MESE:IT

sounds like a good deal if you are happy with the performance. 175 is cheap as hell though.

how much for all except what you were wanting to keep?

my 4mm cub isn't drag ported by any means, and I hit 100HP. my port timings are the same as what they come from Calvin, but that's not to say that the shapes are the same. additionally, my 4mm cub made more torque throughout its entire curve than my stock cylinder dune port with CPI's. cubs just make more power everywhere, especially on top. at least from my experience.

If you or your builder want to know what your durations will be, download this program: http://www.planetsand.com/programs/portmapper.zip If you send me an email or PM, I can email you the updated application (like 200kbytes), and it has some bug fixes in it, as well as a nifty new tool that will help you figure out how to get the desired deck height. Once you install the program, and run it, there's a button that says compare port durations or something like that. On the left side of the screen enter your current setup and port durations. On the right, enter your stroker numbers and play with the deck height to get your transfer durations within reason. Then, figure out how to get that much deck height and raise your exhaust port durations to give you a good blowdown. Good luck

If you are still running the stock air filter, I'd toss that POS first and get a pro flo adapter and clamp on style filter if you are still gonna run the airbox.

don't be so paranoid. he might just be offering to check it out for you. most people here have a banshee already. additionally, the price on a banshee varies by location. here in oregon, if you get a decent banshee 1991 or newer for under $3500, that's a steal. other places, you can get the same bike for half the price.

VF3's

Yes it will work, but you'll have to get some machining done. You'll need some domes cut for the negative deck height that is gonna be required to get your transfer port timing down low enough. Probably have to run a funky piston/rod setup (like a pair of short rod pistons with a long rod) and run a very thick base gasket too. Good luck PM me if you have questions. Should be able to point you in the right direction.

cc's = (bore/2)^2 * pi *stroke * #cyliinders /1000

some places you can check out online prices are www.sudco.com www.proflo.com

BTW, good luck with her, and welcome to HQ. Some good people and good info on here. Sometimes you just gotta dig for it

I've used yamalube since I've had my banshee(s) and it's proven to be good premix for me. I run it at 32:1. I don't think there's any harm at all if you wanted to run it at 24:1, it's just more expensive. You might foul some plugs too, dunno. Many people run mixtures at 50:1 with some of the newer synthetic oils, but I'd rather foul plugs than have premature wear on my components, so I play it conservative.

Myself, I'd tend to favor a local guy. The difference between a good running motor and a sweet running motor quite often can be some tuning here and there. Every motor is different and has their own unique personality to some degree, so getting it on a dyno with your builder is a huge asset. I've seen on here, where someone will get a set of cylinders and fight and fight with it, and pawn them off, only to have the next person be tickled with the performance. My 4mm cub dyno was a good example of that. Here's a link that kinda illustrates my point. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57586