odaen

DGFUNNY70 just recently had a 4mm stroker built. Dyno'd at 75HP with T5's from what he told me. Don't remember who built it for him...

Almost the same a-arm, but they move the shock mount farther out on the arm, requiring the longer shock.

38's are probably bigger than you'd want to run. Wes ran 34PJ's with his setup, and it spit out some impressive numbers.

that had some "machining" done to it to get 93HP But, yeah, didn't even think about the cub cylinder as a bolt on, and I have one.

there's probably a way you could mod the stingers in such a way you could run your T5 silencers. It won't give you any performance gain/loss probably, but it will be quite a bit louder most likely. The "expensive" part of the pipe is the most crucial for peformance gains. Keep your eye out in the forsale forums. They can be had very affordably.

bolt on only....no porting etc....... with gas, probably around 50HP from bolt-ons (pipes, cool head with smaller dome volume, timing advance, reeds, air filter)

call up lonestar and ask them how much they'd want for one......might just send you one free. they sent me one of those caliper post bushings for free once.

Sent you a PM.

send me pics of the rear axle and beadlocks ? [email protected]

I doubt that price comes with any porting. Cost of stock vs any stroke cub is the same for the cylinders. Rocketboy on here has a stock stroke 65mm cub and he's really pleased with it, and I think it was a Passion port job. While the price of the cub may be fixed, the amount of work that a builder puts into it for that price might vary quite a bit. Cheaper isn't always better. If you want another alternative, click the link in my sig. He's not too shabby either

are you running T5's, pc's, or FMF pipes? that would explain the bigger main jet than normal. if you are running CPI's or shearers, sounds like you might be a tad rich on your main. I run 160 mains, CEL needle, and 52 pilots in my 39's and it's a tad fat on the main at sea level.

PM locogato11283 on here, you may have heard of him....he can make any size you want

for your motor, buy the tusk kit from rocky mountain

kinda need to know what you are currently running, for a frame of reference

long as they're not "long travel" arms, they will fit. they will most likely be very soft with the added leverage of the arm.

I agree with your point(s). But I think you missed this part: Yes, he has dyno'd them himself and told me almost verbatim what Dave said in that email. I have 2 motors done by him now, and have yet to find any reason to doubt or discredit him. I don't plan to start now. Peace

Good luck, Red. Every forum has its share of assholes though, just like life. I'm sure we'll see ya back

BTW, welcome to the HQ

The older CPI's had a different mounting tab for the front hanger, that was prone to coming free, or so I've heard. The newer style have a hanger that splits where it is welded to the pipe. Part of the tab bends to the inside of the pipe, and the other half bends to the outside. I believe this fixed the cracking problem. I know I had mine for about a year, and never had a problem with them at all.

Yeah, think he charges like $295 or something.

Email me pics and price to [email protected]

I don't think that Dave sells anything that competes with a nology coil, friend. He sells a CDI that would compete with Dyna. And, FWIW, I'd listen to 2nd hand info that Dave trusted than almost anyone on HQ. Do you need to buy a cub cylinder yourself to believe that they perform extremely well? So, if I gather from you tone your opinion....Dave wanted to take time out of his day to discredit a product that he has no vested interest in, one way or the other. If anything, it makes me respect him more. Some builders would say, hmm...dunno, but I can have one for you in 3 days, and make $20 bucks for his time. As for if it provides performance gains, I'm willing to pay for dyno time to show it, so I must be open minded enough to give it a shot, just not willing to fork over the money to buy one myself. Now, onto possible electrical theory. CDI's basically rely on some basic components, mainly a capacitor. The cap, after being charged by the mag, discharges with the primary side of the coil in it's path. This creates a current in the primary coil that transfers to the secondary, thus firing the plug. If the turns ratio of the coil is higher, more voltage will be developed, true, but the load on the cap increases proportional to the square of the turns ratio. So, getting the higher voltage spark, means that the cap is gonna discharge faster - ie, shorter duration. I don't know of the optimal figures for spark duration or voltage. But, I can understand the reason why this coil would or would not work better than stock. If you read my first post, I wondered if there was a CDI to CDI variance in the effectiveness of the coil.

when you shed it, send it to Oregon so I can see the dyno plot first hand

Happy Birthday, Bud

Heard they don't make the 2's anymore, so buying replacement petals in the long run might be difficult and/or expensive. My builder recommended the 3's when I put my stock cylinder 4mm together, and when I talked to him last week, said the same thing - that he's actually seen a slight performance increase with the 3's (like 1HP peak). Both reeds are an oustanding design though, and you won't be disappointed in how they perform.