odaen

One more thing, not a single wire needs to be cut. Just unplug the parts that you are removing from the main harness, no snippers needed.

Wanted one of these for awhile now.... http://product.samsung.com/event/optin05/sportscam_site/

Just unplug the TORS unit (just in front of the fuel petcock on the frame). There are wires that feed from your carbs, thumb throttle, parking brake into the TORS unit. Then, there's a wire from the TORS that goes to your CDI to handle any of the inputs. Stuck throttle kills the ignition, parking brake limits RPM. When you unplug the TORS, you can pull the cap off the throttle and disconnect the microswitch in there and remove the wires by unplugging it from the main wiring harness. Same with the parking brake portion of the stock clutch perch, and finally the TORS carb caps. Get the TORS removal kit for your carbs and a new throttle cable. It makes jetting your bike so much easier. Electrically, guess I've never thought about it , or cared for that matter. Your diagram is a little bit wrong though. I think there's a wiring diagram for a banshee on the site somewhere that shows what every wire routes to.

yeah, kinda agree with wallrat. dune ported stock cylinders with an H129 will perform very well in the sand and on the trails. try to stick to a +4 or shorter swingarm.

I'd like to rent them from you for a dyno run. I would promise not to post the resulting plots til you sold them

I think a 19" shock is the length for long travel a-arm setups. stock is like 15-3/4

got pics of the chrome tie rods?

might have a bad head gasket, allowing cylinder pressures to leak into the cooling system, overflowing the radiator.

don't get me wrong, I loved mine too on both bikes. both bikes, the stingers hit the outerwears, so I just zip-tied them together and it provided enough clearance. The stingers hit the airbox on one of them and burned a couple nice holes. I've seen quite a few shees with T5's with the plastics melted right under the seat. Normally, you can rig something up to clear everything, but seems as though you could improve on the routing some.

Brooke is wise beyond her years. NYUK, brutal, man, just brutal

assuming they are a preloaded shock, you can adjust the preload to give you the highest ride height. bout all you can do really as far as I know.

any plastic that the stingers touch will melt. you can wrap the stingers or buy some aftermarket heat wraps from Cascade Innovations for $30

can't stand either team, but I think the MVP should've gone to the ref's calling that game. without them, dunno if the Steelers would've won.

performance-wise, they are very solid for their application. the only complaints I had about them were the loudness and the routing of the stingers. If you run an airbox, the stingers will hit the box or the plastic beneath the seat 90% of the time. if you run K&N pods, they'll burn the outerwears. only reason I care about the loudness, is they are starting to crack down on sound levels at the dunes.

Pretty pathetic when someone asks a valid question on here and gets ridiculed. Whatever it takes to stroke your own ego though, ehh?

pics? is it all durablue stuff, or stock stuff on a durablue axle?

Ain't nothing wrong with using a dyno to get a baseline of how your bike performs before and after mods. Otherwise you get the "new shoes" syndrome, where you think you can jump higher and run faster because of your new Nike's. So, unless you got timeslips to compare against, dyno plots are very useful.

Dynos even made by the same manufacturer can vary. Some builders have dynos that are considered "stingy" compared to others. Could be why they call that dyno "Heart Breaker". 2003LimitedBanshee brings up some good points though. I ran stock carbs in my 4mm stock cylinder and dyno'd it at 76HP with pump gas domes on a "stingy" dyno.

send a PM to Holyman on here. Hard to beat his prices on bearings. I think the 12 bearings from him are around $75, or you can buy the replacement bushings cheaper. I think you get what you pay for.

Prolly lookin at a 27.5 pilot Toomey Needle in 3rd clip 250ish on the main if you are running a lid, 290 without Someone might get you closer, I've always run the K&N clamp on pods.

shell out $11 for a new cable. you'll be surprised how much difference a new cable makes in ease of clutch pull if your old one is in rough shape.

If you don't mind shipping your stuff, there's a place in Springfield, OR named McKenzie Plating. Their stuff is top notch, but it's pretty spendy. A-Arms are 200, chroming the clutch cover is 150. I think they charge 100 to polish a set of cubs.

Ditchem, someone will pay more than they're worth. Then, buy a decent inframe drag pipe, like a CPI or Shearer, buy some beer with your extra money and get drunk and happy thinking about it all.

might wanna PM rocketboy on here. I think he's pondering a similar thing.

We could all sit here and give our experiences with our builders, and I'm guessing most of us will have nothing but praise. But, it's hella nice to roll your bike into your builder's shop, throw it on his dyno, and tune it to give you the best performance. God himself could port your cylinders, and one tiny mis-calc in your domes will be the difference between being very pissed off and realizing the potential of the powerplant beneath your balls. Due to that, I strongly recommend buying local if there are good builders close by. Mail order stuff works great, until there is a problem. Good luck