J.J.

Reas, good to hear you're still alive. Hope all is well.

Common problem, like itsjustagreat1 said... Mine does it from 2nd to 3rd on pavement, just never get round to fixing it, lost a few YFZ drag races because of that...

Being from the Land of Apartheid, I'll just stay out of this one. I'm too busy as a father and husband to have the luxury to give a shit about anyone else...

Excellent ! Well done guys! ABM thanks for the pics man, they are really appreciated.

All bikes are different, typically you should be looking at about 280 ~ 320 on the mains with that set-up Only one way to find out out what's inside there... I recommend you take a look at the Jetting FAQ

Well done guys, looking forward to the pics!!

What don't you get? Your motor obviously doesn't have the balls to pull that kind of gearing.

Compress the spring then zip tie them so you dont have to hold on to them....it makes that job a whole lot easier. If you don't have zip ties, use the little wire thingies you find on the plastic bag of a loaf of bread. Remember that the hole on the retainer plate inside the slide must be clear. Look inside the slide, you'll see what I mean.

Yep, as long as you don't do anything to the hub taper. Also, remember magnets can loose their magnetism by hard knocks.

Like banshee370 said, the repair area has to be spotless on both sides You could also "V'' the edge and roughen up the area to give the JB more adhesion. IMO as long as the crack hasn't propogated into the boss of the shiftshaft seal it should be ok. You should also find the end of the fracture and arrest propogation by drilling the end of the crack with a small drill. It could be welded by a pro as well.

Float height?

A leak that huge shouldn't be too difficult to locate, keep trying man, the shop is going to rob you blind...

its all good. age doesnt really matter does it??? Ask me again when you're 38...

Plenty of reading right here... flywheel 1 flywheel 2 flywheel 3 flywheel 4 flywheel 5

Have a good one Stephen! I'll have a few beers on ya Damn, just realized I'm about double your age

The cap should open at 13.5 - 17.8 psi ( 93 - 123 kPa)

If the bulbs are blown, then it could be the voltage regulator.

Kiwi, that could very well be the problem, i suggest you take a read through BenBB's excellent Electrical FAQ It'll explain how to test the stator coils in there. Do not even try to remove the flywheel without the correct puller. Your dealer should have them in stock, they are dirt cheap here in South Africa, so I imagine they won't be too expensive in NZ either.

Holy crap!!! I see on the pic timeframe, the whole thing only took 25 minutes from beginning to end. Excellent pics man, glad the damage isn't too serious.

Yep, the pics you guys took the last time out were excellent!! Some more please! Good luck guys!

230's way too lean, take them back and swop them for something closer to 280, like 290 or 270. What is your elevation and ambient temperature? Try to explain the problem with your bike, I'm sure we'll be able to get you sorted. From now on you better take everything that fool told you with a pinch of salt...

No worries... I bought these from UPP, they had no problem shipping to South Africa, so I'm sure Oz won't be a problem. Gobbler, where you from? I have a sister that lives in Perth and more family in Brisbane.

Make up some soapy water, apply the pressure and paint the soapy water over all the gaskets, seals and joints you can find, first check your test device connections, the plugs on the exhaust, the plates on the reedcage, the hose, the pressure gauge, everthing. The bubbles are normally easy to see and hard to miss. It should hold 6 psi about 1/2bar for 6 minutes, do not pressurise higher than this. Any loss of pressure of more than 1psi in 1 minute is a problem. If the test equipment is air tight, check the engine, base gasket, case joint, etc Next, check the right hand crankseal for leaks at the fitting for the gearcase breather, no air should leak out that hose. Finally, if you are sure there is a leak, but you haven't found it, remove the flywheel cover and the flywheel and check the crank seal behind the flywheel also. Later J.J.

I recommend you perform a leak down test before you go any further. leak down test 1 leak down test 2 leak down test 3

370banshee, thanks for clearing that up. I can see the enthusiasm and effort that you guys have put into E2S and I'll continue to visit! J.J.