J.J.

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Welcome to the HQ Brad! With the same mods at sea level I ran 280 mains with the lid, 300 with no lid. Needle clip in the middle, 27.5 pilots.

Veels geluk Nighty! Luke, haven't seen you here for a while, what's happening Dude? How's the RZ shee doing?

Dude, forget everything the other guys have said UNTIL you have an air filter on there. Don't even start it! If you insist on running it without a filter, (like some drag racers do) then you have to compensate your jetting for the extra air. In other words, you are running lean without the filter and you need to add more fuel to correct the air/fuel ratio.

Sounds like a sneeze? If you don't have an airfilter on that thing then you're gonna be running lean. Put the filter back on and try again.

You answered your own question. Put some filters on there.

Those are some smokin' designs bro, you definately have some talent!

Damn! That's tragic bro! Sorry to hear about your misfortune, hopefully it has come to an end now. Please keep posting pics as you fix her up.

One more: To prevent the drill bit from hitting the other side of the bore and phucking things up, stick a piece of broom stick or similiar in to the bore, that way when the drill bit breaks through it doesn't hit the other side.

Like NYUK said...

Good luck fellas! As usual, we expect pics and a full race report on the Monday.

Nothing I can add to make things right My sincere condolences.

BenBB's Electrical FAQ All you need to know...

The fact that it starts to rev up, makes me think that it has an airleak, or it's running out of fuel.

Got your PM, it seems as if you know what you're doing, only one way to be sure if there's a problem or not... Get that bad boy up and running and take it from there, keep us updated!

You never mentioned how the bike runs ? 1) Does it idle ok? if so, no problem with the slide not dropping down all the way. Are the tapped holes for the idle screws drilled in the correct position in the boss on the side of the carb? 2) As the slides are moving up and down in unison, no problem with the carb sync. 3) How is the WOT performance?, if ok, I wouldn't worry about the slides going too high. 4) If you look at the dimples in the slide through the little windows, the dimples in my carb slides can move past the window. 5) How much free play in the throttle movement? It could be a problem with the cable, take a good look at the splitter arrangement.

Sure was funny!

To each their own... Don't forget to compensate the torque setting on your torque wrench to factor in the additional leverage given by the crowsfeet.

Read through this post about the electrical problems Meat had last year. And then read through this post, to find the final outcome of his problems.

Meat, for what it's worth, I would like you to stay. Just let it slide man... it's not worth worrying about. I still remember the raging argument between BlueDouche and B370 about Elka's a few years ago, they still managed to survive on the HQ since then. This is part of life bro, you can't agree with everyone all the time, so don't give it a second thought. Also don't think that ikikazz speaks for everyone on the HQ, he is just another one of the thousands of newbies who have never contributed to the site and prolly won't be here a few months down the line...

Ain't that the truth! I noticed Wheatchex is posting once in a blue moon, he da man!

This one? http://shop.knfilters.com/knshop/

Good luck & watch your back!

No probs, it's a starting point at best, you have to do the fine tuning yourself. Edit: How impolite of me, welcome to the HQ, hope you're hear to stay

From the factory the nuts are tightened to 170ft.lb with Loctite. I had to hold the inner nut stationary with a wrench and turn the outer nut with another to get it to move. Can't recall the correct size wrench (I'm at work right now), but you need a proper wrench, pipe tools are just gonna phuk things up.