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J.J.

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Everything posted by J.J.

  1. How does one convert an mpeg file to a gif file? Here's what I'm trying to do, I have a short mpeg clip of an animation of a marine 2-stroke engine, going through 360Deg of crank motion. I want to turn it into a gif file and make it run continiously for an avatar, but I have wrenches for fingers and shit for brains... Any ideas would be most welcome. Thanks J.J.
  2. I'm not sure if the spacers will help much, in theory they're supposed to soften the powerband hit, but I have no experience with them. I can imagine it must be a bitch to get the carbs back into the boots... For serious traction issues, I recommend a shortened swing-arm.
  3. With that level of compression I wouldn't risk advancing the timing at all. To be honest, I've played with the timing from 0 to +4 (adjustable plate, not key) and I can't feel any difference on the ass dyno... Actually, the next time I'm in there, I'll reduce the advance to be at about +2 only, this, after I read something Meat said a while ago.. I really like the V-Force reeds, the improvement was noticable on the trusty ol' ass dyno.
  4. Pulling in air from where? If the throttle is closed, the slides are down... Please elaborate!
  5. more like the "deadest" kid on the block
  6. Here's mine: Vito's SS, original bore K&N in the box, lid off Fattys & PC2 Timing at +4 V-Force PD Coolhead 20cc Elevation about 1500ft 320 Mains Stock needles in the middle 27.5 pilots Forged pistons have to be warmed up well, before you hammer it. Edit: If there is no visible damage to the bore, you could just hone it and re-measure just to make sure.
  7. Nice explanation there Lefty, short & sweet
  8. Sounds spooky
  9. Jeremy, I also have the flame one and I have to agree with Chipdog, the holes are huge and I also don't have any cooling problems.
  10. Make sure the carb slides are in sync. If you don't know how to do it make a search for carb sync...
  11. I'm using those at the moment, no problem. I have a 1mm stainless washer between the head and the nut.
  12. J.J.

    Boots

    Fox Comp, 3 years old and still damned stiff, I'm always miss-shifting 2nd to 3rd with those on...
  13. Nothing fancy, stick only, 220VAC with a homemade rectifier to give 220VDC, 80amps maximum, the main circuit breaker to my house can't handle anything more. Pisses my wife off tremendously when I keep "blacking out" the household...
  14. And still a rookie
  15. Damn, don't you just hate it when that happens... It may not be as bad as you think. 1) The crank and the inner bearings are the main issue here, if the inner bearings are not rolling smoothly, you shouldn't take a chance, to change them, the crank will have to be split, that's gonna cost ya. It might be cheaper to just get a new crank... Can you say stroker?? 2) I don't think the crank would have been damaged, just to make sure, take it to a machine shop and have them check the run-out. (0.05mm or 0.0021in max) 3) As for the cases, bolt them up dry without the crank and measure the bearing landing face to see how much ovality it has (check to see if it is still round) if you don't have an inside micrometer or vernier, take it to a machine shop to have them measure it up. 4) As for the "little holes", what is little, and do they interfere with the existing holes? If they are just dent marks you could get away with just cleaning up the burrs. Let us know how it goes.
  16. That's what happens when you make a list of names, you always leave someone out. Sorry 'bout that member No.111
  17. Hey girl, saw you register shortly after SIKgrl, two girls in one day Like sredish said, FMF's Fatties and SST's are a good allround pipes and they suit most types of riding well... Welcome to the BHQ, hope you visit often!
  18. Can't remember exactly when, but you're right BHQ has come a long way. I found it by chance doing a search for Banshee. This site rocks and I couldn't imagine life without it... There are still some of the original members active here, although I don't know about the "original 12", maybe Lee can give us some backround. Some of the "old dogs" still active are: Lee, Member #1 FATBANSHEE #25 (Always here, but never says much) BenBB #30 Wheatchex #35 (Doesn't post much anymore, but still visits) Banshee370 #118 J.J. #171 (only recently made amateur status ) Meat #287 dlNoss #685 Minkia #1595 Nyuk #1980 BdBanshee #2553 Still remember the AllProCycles,Quick and BlueBreadTruck sagas, those were pretty wild.
  19. Get with the program dude, we're way ahead of ya! Go look in the images forum
  20. 6 to 7 psi
  21. What is you compression and what size domes? Boosting compression with smaller volume domes will help the bottom end.
  22. I agree with A&S, I'm using a P.D. Coolhead and I've had the head off at least 10 times and I'm still using the original o-rings, they've started to flatten out now, but still no leaks. If you've made up your mind to go back to stock, 0.030 is the most you can take off the gasket sealing face with a straight cut. If you want to go more then you have to recut the combustion chamber to correct the squish band.
  23. Hi yourself! Welcome to the HQ!
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