J.J.

Percy, how much are they in Rands, I bought a Clarke 5.5 gallon tank for $195 + $200 shipped to South Africa, about R2400 give or take... clarke 5.5 tank

Personal preference dude, I will NEVER go back to thumb. oside5ka, congratulations on your purchase, I'm sure you'll be more than happy!

Quadzone had awesome coverage of the race! Thanks for the heads-up Meat!

Congrats Stan, the banner looks killer

Linc, I just use the gasket with a light coating of grease on both surfaces, stops the gasket from sticking next time you remove it. I've done a few leakdowns and never found a leak in that area. If you really want to eliminate that gasket as a potential leak scource then I'm sure a bit of gasket sealant want hurt anything. Also check out the cross-over tube/ boost bottle connection for leaks or cracks.

Same as Boonman, except I have K&N Strange that your research doesn't involve needle type and clip position...

banshee graphics

You just don't give up, do you

Goodridge

sredish, good luck! Hope you make the right decision. Loco, now where have I seen that pic before?

Yep I watch it

I ordered Huevos VI directly from H-Bomb a couple of months ago, credit card was debited the next day and delivery 1 week later in S.Korea. No complaints here...

Nice, but I prefer Moto Carrera's RD350 Grass Tracker, don't know what I'd do with it though

Build it strong bro Using the 2nd moment calculator above, The square tube you're using comes to 0.05694in4, For comparison: If you had to use 1" round tube, 1/8' thick, you'd get a 2nd moment of area of 0.0335in4. Therefore you can safely say that if the steel properties are the same for both, the 1" square tubing will be more resitant to bending than the 1" round tubing. Have you thought about the caster?

Can't really say who's correct or not, one needs to calculate the second moment of area of the steel stock that you're working with, if you're buying the stock from a reputable dealer they should have tables available, for weight per length and the second moment of area. Both box sections and round sections are used extensively in making frames today. Compare the frame of a Cannondale or CR to that of a Banshee or old school YZ. Big difference in physical dimensions... A box section can be made to be stronger than a round section, however, due to the extra weight involved in the box section, the engineer choosing a box section will have to choose a lightweight metal. The thinner the wall thickness, the larger the outside dimensions required. IMO the stock that 99screaminshee is working with, can be made strong enough, with the gussets in the correct place. Do not try to bend the square bar. Some tips: Try to fit the ball joint for the upper and lower arm in the horisontal position with the shocks sagged to the rider and bike's weight. This will prevent the ball joints from binding at the extreme ends of the travel. (Thanks for the pic Stu) Do not try to bend the square bar. At the shock mount on the lower arm, drill a series of holes along the shock mount, to enable different ride heights and use different shocks. drill the line of holes parallel with the lower arm. Hope this has helped, try to post some pics of your project!

and The main factor resisting bending in a beam is it's second moment of area in the plane of bending. The second moment of area is calculated from the cross-section of the component. If weight and torsion is not an issue then an I-Beam has the most resistance to bending, period. The properties that you should be looking for in deciding the material is the shape efficiency, in other words, what cross section is going to have the most resistance to bending with the least amount of weight. In most cases, when considering bending, a round tube will be more efficient than a square tube. That means that a piece of round tube with the same second moment of area as a square tube will weigh less for the same length. Second moment calculator for square tube Second moment calculator for round tube

-2 by mrmatt, the pics don't show... pity

works great, thanks #1

I like humble people.... Give him a chance guys.

I'd love to help out man, but IF I could afford it it would be going into my own frame...

air leak, check that the choke tube is connected, and that the carb boots are tight

Mechanical engineer, in charge of design approval and installation of machinery on a shipbuilding project. Here's the first one in a series of ships we're building.

I like the look of that bike... Pure kick-ass, no fancy b.s.

I run fatties and really like them, I feel they're a good allround pipe. They might not suit your particular riding style, there are better pipes for top-end power or more bottom-end. Depends on your type of riding. Leave the Turbines on.

If I had the money I would ditch my DG skid and get the PRM, my DG was a bitch to fit, the hardware that came with it is plain crap and the hole for the case drain plug doesn't line up with the plug. That goes for the DG bumper and nerfs as well come to think of it.