J.J.

37 isn't old! Best wishes man, hope you enjoy your day!

All the maintenance I've done on my bike has been planned, either for regular upkeep or for mods. My bike has never broken down, EVER. It's a 2000 bought new from the dealer, still on the original bore, 125psi both sides. Like the others said, keep up with the maintenance (which you have to do on all quads anyway) and it should last a long time!

No truth in it, if the mains are too fat it won't run well enough to matter anyway.

Hey Bruce, good to see you made the move. I'm quite jealous, missing the outrides a lot. I'm stuck in S.Korea on an engineering project at the moment and haven't ridden since March. Let us know how that axle comes along! J.J.

Mounts behind the counter shaft sprocket, protects the alloy cases from damage in event of chain snapping or coming off the sprocket. Good insurance!! Edit: Sorry bigboy didn't see your post!!

Gurl, you're hot! Make an old man happy and show us a pic, you in one of those...

If you didn't remove them from the stockers then they should still be stuck in the groove on the inside of the pipe, I can't imagine that they would have fallen out when you removed the pipes, mine were pretty well stuck in there...

Hey Percy, Good to see you're still posting here! What Meat_Head said just about sums it up. The right hand shoulder of the disc hub should seat hard-up against the shoulder of the axle. The left hand shoulder of the disc hub should seat hard-up against the inner race of the right hand bearing. There should be no movement. I suggest you get this sorted as the spline between the axle and disc hub will definately start to wear. Correct procedure for tightening the axle nuts: A few drops of Red Locktite (271) on the threads. Tighten the inner nut against the sprocket hub and give it a hard nip (55N.m or 40ft-lb) Spin the axle to make sure the bearings are still spinning free and check for play on the disc hub. While holding the inner nut with a wrench, tighten the outer nut hard against the inner nut. (190N.m or 140ft-lb) Draw a line straight across the flats of both nuts. Hold the outer nut and tighten the inner nut against the outer nut (reverse direction) This should be #$%^ tight! (240N.m or 177ft-lb) The distance that the lines on the nuts are apart should be no less than 3mm, if less, repeat the previous step. J.J.

Like a couple of other things in life, you have to lube before penetration...

Click Here

You need to remove the o-rings from the stock exhaust and put them in there. The oil leaking out will have no effect on the oil level in the gearcase.

Kid, you sure ask some dumb questions, don't you have a room to clean or homework to do?

Congrats man, that's a clean bike! Like Meat said...

Yamaha Banshee Rider, no disrespect intended, but it sounds like you may just be in over your head a bit. Get that Clymers manual and start reading, if you still think you can split the cases after that, we will be here to help you through it. BTW, any particular reason why you took the head off and how do you know there is sand in the crankcase?

To see if there is water in there; Drain the oil into something clean, the wife's Tupperware works great, then transfer it into a transparent bottle and put the lid back on the bottle. Put it on the window shelf in the kitchen or any other warm place for a few days. If the oil is emulsified, the water will seperate out and you should start to see an oil/water interface or different layers. The process will work better if the mixture is warm and if the bottle is tall with a narrow base.

Proquad101, it sounds interesting, but please pardon my stupidity, what the hell is a cane tip??

Brooke, like I said, politics, opinions and beliefs aside. Holyman has answered all the questions directed at him in a calm, direct, coherent and I have to say this, in a convincing (to me anyway) manner. No name calling or disrespect. Furthermore, I really respect and appreciate his comprehension of the English language. Please remember, I'm talking about pure debating skills here... Also, please don't ask me to reply to this, I suck at debating and I'm sure you'll have me eating my words without much effort on your part.

these kinds of posts make banshee HQ unique! a little friendly debate never hurt anyone. ive enjoyed this thread, and ive learned alot from it. Hell yeah, this one hell of a thread and some excellent debating here, keep it coming and no low blows. I'm useless at debating, but, I've been following this one with interest, in fact the whole world is anxious to know what this election has in store... Politics aside, on my scorecard Holy has the edge...

Take the reading on a cold engine, ignition off, throttle wide open. Kick that mother until the pressure stops increasing, both sides. Depending on you elevation and atmospheric conditions, you should be shooting for about 120psi per cylinder. If there are huge deviations in pressure, say 5~10%, between cylinders and/or you're below about 105psi give or take a few, it's time to open that bad girl up for some remedial measures...

Welcome! Has anyone mentioned the SEARCH button?

No problem with the site, nice toys there Ultimateduner !

Agreed, Fattys are a good allround pipe.

Ed, I reckon a compression tester will be a good investment at this stage. Check you compression before you buy anything else and base your decisions on that.

I have my doubts... I calculate it as follows: 1 mile in 4.39 seconds = 13.667 miles per minute = 820.04 miles per hour.... ha ha ha

Ed, wassup dude, welcome to the HQ. This tube, normally it's a black hose. Cheers J.J.