J.J.

Hey Tyler, have you seen the new adjustable pulleys, it has a vernier scale so one can accurately set the pulley timing.

Hell yeah, they sure make it look easy! I'm too much of a pussy to jump that high. (I normally tell my buddies I'm being responsible, 37years old, wife & 2 kids, blah blah ) The biggest air I get is launching the bike out of the back of my pick-up truck

Great! Do search for the axle carrier grease mod, it's well worth it and will make your new bearings last longer.

Sounds like the kind of problems that always happens to me The sprocket hub is splined and should just pull off, if it's stuck on the shaft, it's more than likely due to corrosion. You are correct in trying to move the shaft towards the disc brake, once the sprocket hub is off, it should all slide out towards the disc brake. If the carrier is still on the swingarm, it might be easier to take the carrier off first. Not sure what facilities and tools you have, but, I would try the following: Put the left wheel hub back on the axle and get a piece of pipe that fits nicely over the end of the axle and pushes against the wheel hub, to protect the axle. Support the carrier on something solid, heat the sprocket hub and hit on the pipe with a BFH towards the right. The bearing carrier should prevent the sprocket hub from moving with the shaft, thus forcing it off. Alternatively: My workbench at home, (1inch steel plate) has a notch cut out of it, purely for removing bearings from shafts. You could try something similiar. There's a real risk of bending the axle here, so use some good judgement when hitting the pipe. If nothing moves, stop, go back to the house and have a beer . Someone might suggest spraying some WD40 or some shit like that on there, but your'e just fooling yourself if you think that's gonna do anything. Edit: Once it's all off, you might consider doing the grease zerk mod to the carrier. BTW, Clymer just says: " Slide the driven sprocket and its collar off of the axle and remove it" Yeah riiight.

GasGas 300 2-stroke, quite a few here in South Africa, but I've never had the oppertunity to ride one, so I'll reserve any comments

I do believe you're looking for an M20 bolt & nut, those have a hex head of 30mm across flats.

Monk, I don't want to be a dick either, but I would not recommend tightening the studs to 20 ft.lbs for exactly the same reasons you stated above. I add a few drops of red Loctite 271 to the threads, screw in the studs by hand and give them a small nip. The head and base nuts should be torqued in the way you stated...

slows you down , what type of riding ?

Larger one at the bottom.

Translation for those who speak english... Which bike is that frame from? seriously now, which bike is that frame from?

BenBB's Electrical FAQ, check out Q#6

I'm using the most basic Garmin e-trex, works great, costs about 90-100 bucks. I use it in my truck, on the quad and on my mountain bike. The handle bar clamps are about 12 bucks and the car holder a bit more. Only 2 complaints: 1)I use the speed feature the most on my quad (ave, max, odo, trip, etc) and I found that the digits are too small to read when you're barely in control of the quad and only have a split second to glance down. The higher models, Venture, Legend, etc, have larger size digits that would make it easier to read. 2) The batteries are sensitive to big hits and the power will be cut off if they move, I just shim the batteries against the cover with a piece of paper to overcome this. Never had a problem with the water proofing. The rest of the features are more than adequate for quad use, like track back, auto track log, waypoints, elevation, etc. Here's a pic to show how small the digits are. Hope this helps.

vibrate + tring tring

Could be something simple like a blocked gas cap vent, causes a progressive vacuum to build up in the tank. Easy to eliminate by leaving the cap slightly loose.

Pjw, before you buy, might i suggest getting a coupla cans of aerosol contact cleaner (suitable for electronics) and spraying the shit out of those windings and then re-measure. Might get lucky. I'm also no electrical boff, but I would have thought that the resistance would be less in event of a short circuit and higher in event of a poor connection like BenBB said... Anyways, don't take my word for it, I'm just thinking out loud here. Ben, I see you added the link in your sig, thanx man, easier to find now. BTW, where you been at lately, hope all's ok! Edit: Wouldn't the 200W from RS have a higher resistance than the stocker, my thinking is the added length of the windings on a RS is more than on a stocker?

At work now, not close to the manual, but here's a link to BenBB's Electrical FAQ. Check out Q#29

Damn Noob, that was difficult to read man, whatchoo talkin 'bout

Now I know who we 're talking about. Hope everything turns out ok!

If you've drilled the bolt and the hole has not damaged the existing threads then you can put an easy-out in there to remove the rest of the bolt. These are available at most hardware and tool shops.

Yep, Ben's da man. Also, try to get your hands on the Ben's Electrical FAQ, it's all you'll ever need. Ben's been lying low lately??

The shaft seal on your waterpump is leaking. Item 3: 93103-10168-00 OIL SEAL While you have the water pump open you might as well get the following items as well. Item 2: 93306-30003-00 BEARING (B6300Z) Item 6: 99080-07600-00 CIRCLIP The above parts are dirt cheap so I recommend replacing them regardless. Also, take a good look at the impeller (plastic part) of the pump shaft for any damage like melting or slipping on the shaft and replace with a Pro Design alloy pump if required. Edit: How rude of me, welcome to the HQ, coupla Kiwis here on the HQ, XTShee being the most regular. Hope to see you posting back once you get this sorted. Cheers J.J.

deathmetal5150, Welcome to the BHQ. My bike is a 2000, bought new from the dealer. Still on the original bore, although I have replaced the pistons and rings with Vito's ones for a bit of extra power. The original pistons were fine. Compression is 120psi both sides at elevation of 1500 ft. As any banshee owner will tell ya, a good filter set-up is crucial on these bikes as the original sucks. That was my first mod to the bike. After the filter I got some pipes, and had to experiment a bit with the jetting to get it right. Made a few mistakes along the line, but got the carbs sorted. My bike has NEVER let me down, problems have been mostly related to bolts loosening and falling off. I use Yamalube - 2R at 32:1 and change the gearbox oil regularly. Also I have never fouled a plug. I always clean and lube my bike after every ride and check it over. Keep up with the maintenance and measure the compression often and it should last you a long time.

BMackKC, if I remember correctly, you had a problem with the shift shaft and ball stuck together a while back or am I getting my wires crossed? Anyways, with the symptoms you're describing and considering the fact that you just had a rebuild, I strongly recommend you look for any obvious airleaks, boots around the carbs, carb tops, choke tube, reed cage gaskets etc. In addition I recommend you also do a leak down test to see if there are no leaks from the cases and the crank seal. Do a search for leak down test to get more info, if you can't find anything let us know. If the back firing is common to both cylinders then it's obvious that the leak is also common if you catch my drift... BTW, a 300 mains is just fine for your mods.

As long as you don't have to give any speeches you'll be fine...

Yep, the scope for f**k-ups in a machine shop is huge Odds are this guy is either gonna get caught in the chuck or take too large a cut and tear the work piece out of the chuck or run the tool post into the chuck or on the mill, snap off a $500 end mill using the "fast traversing" be sure to stand well clear, but close enough to view it all when it happens...