Toybreaker

https://maine.craigslist.org/snw/d/banshee-fullbore-set/6540392072.html white https://southcoast.craigslist.org/snw/d/banshee-parts/6549196587.html going to go look at this saturday, want the crank for a spare. But will sell the cylinders, and scrap the exhaust.

www.treadlightly.org/RIDEON/CA not a be all end all but a good place to start. South Cow Mountain and knoxville OHV park for sonoma county and mendocino national forest has offroading listed.... and for a "trip" ocotillo wells, Glamis, Buttercup, and a couple other OHV riding areas in san diego and imperial counties..... plus there is a bunch of good riding in Baja Mexico (if you are brave)

Get the cylinders "tuned up" by a sponsoring builder, buy the domes from them as well..... or better yet buy some Driveline 421 LP cylinders and domes. He is getting a bunch back from plating on April 7th..... and run some 28-35mm carbs and SLP pipes.... looking at up to 80 hp? Right Tony?

Nobody likes a quitter ;-p

dunes in Idaho, Oregon, Utah, and Demokratic Republic of Kalifornia plus lots of OHV areas to ride in DRK that range from open desert to wooded/mountainous.... ( i am sure areas in Or, Wa, and ID as well. I just haven't lived there) take the bike.....

Knowledge is the great equalizer.... once you know how each carb works they are all "pretty" easay to tune. Started tuning 2 strokes with an 87 LT250r that had a 34mm pj. went to a cr500 with a 39mm pwk then on to a banshee with stock carbs. I personally liked the PJ the best....

Don’t change from oil to atf on used clutches..... they burn up when you change after they are saturated. I like type F ATF better friction modifiers

Very true. I assume people use the search tool and read a shit ton, try things out.... and when ready to set it on fire ask the questions..... definitely check to see if the choke tube is there, fits tightly, and is not cracked.....

mix ratio can have an effect on jetting too......

Ever been to Asia? Lots of tranny's you would swear are women......

If I was running the tip cleaner in a drill or dremel I would worry... but the little bit of abrasion from the hand work will not increase or decrease fuel flow to any measurable degree.

tapatalk will let you upload. get the app....

If he did not "clean" the jets, physically clean them not spray them with carb or brake cleaner, then there is probably some crap left in there. Get a set of torch cleaners and run the closest sized cleaner through all the jets, soak the carb bodies in carb dip over night, blow out ALL passages with compressed air, follow with aerosol solvent to remove any remaining carb dip, let air dry and reassemble with new float needle and seat assemblies and bowl gaskets. and get rid of the #%@&(*$ tors...

go to harbor freight and buy a cheapo set of digital calipers, set it to metric, measure the hole for the carrier.... can't tell size from pictures.

use tapatalk to upload photo's works great!

fat is better, 170.....

If it threads into the plug threads it will work.

Check spark(on both cylinders), check compression, pull carbs and go comepletely through them. Tear them all the way down and put them in carb dip, soak overnight then blow everything out with compressed air or brake cleaner. Get some torch tip cleaners and clean all the jets, set your floats and try again

start with 300 mains 27.5 pilot, go buy the toomey needles and install all that with the needle in the middle. should be safe and fat at that, but still run ok. do plug chops and post pics of the results (use the search function if you do not know how to do a plug chop) Buy 25-30 pilots and 270-330 mains so you can tune, and 24 plugs ( you will use a bunch tuning and doing the plug chops)

he replaced everything else, that is all that is left.....

I ran R1 frictions with barnett steels when my bike was built to 74HP. took 2 seasons of abuse before I had to replace the hub and basket... The frictions and steels are still in use on my wifes banshee....

If it don't go chrome it ;-p

you need cylinder base spacers (worst idea), get domes to match the stroke/piston combo(decent solution), get the right pistons so you can just assemble it (easiest solution) take the sleeves and pistons back and buy a set of driveline assasin lp or hp cylinders and domes (best solution)

Don't just throw parts at it. start simple. You need fuel/compression/spark swap plug leads first. then start it, If the other side has smoke you know the problem is the ignition. otherwise open radiator cap, any bubbles? no bubbles means no head gasket leak into cooling system at idle..... Then go through the carbs again after that ( I mean tear them completely apart, put all the main pieces in carb dip over night, blow everything out with compressed air, run torch tip cleaners through the jets, then brake cleaner. Buy new needle and seat for fuel inlets, reassemble and test.) after you do all that and it still doesn't run right come back.... DO 1 THING AT A TIME. that way you can track what you changed and how it affected the bike.

Then pay someone else to make them.....