Toybreaker

Rapid set at 100% and didn’t single block it.... did he have to change his shorts after that?

If he is a good teacher He didn't do it for the student. Expensive mistake, but you don't become a machinist without smashing and scrapping some parts

apparently he saw this thread and took the listing down.

nope, I have a roll design front set up, I was more passing along the link for the shocks, It is a turn key upgrade for a stocker.... there is another C-listing not in maine with a laeger swingarm..... goona let that sit for a while longer and see if they want to sell, or hold out for their price.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rd350+tach&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=9ZxQhQgfjykjLM%3A%2CtZrRI1-TAOo6wM%2C_&usg=__Cq5BTAq4mMsrR3B2Lhsr8QG33S0%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_uqTU5traAhXHmeAKHd4-DAoQ9QEI1AEwAg#imgrc=xv7IjL4OEcygsM: aren't rd 350's the same? why not adapt one to the banshee?

Panties

https://maine.craigslist.org/rvs/d/banshee-long-travel-21-arms/6534012755.html

head

Bucket of HOT soapy water, let it soak a while, shake em a bit under the water, then blow the water out, from the inside of the filter, let them air dry and oil them.... I did this after every riding trip.

66mm Full drag port, cool head, vf-2, toomey pipes and needle, stock carbs (before I got my 35mm pwk's) 340 mains, 30 pilot, needle 2 clips from bottom 25-60 degrees at glamis, ran great. get bigger carbs and slp's, cpi's, or shearer pipes. you will like the difference.

infected

Shearer and CPI are top end, dirt and flat track are all pretty much top end racing So Yes Shearer and CPI pipes are TOP END pipes so they would be better than T-5's for what you plan on doing with your bike.

dunes.... night rides are awesome,

Porn

87 has the LT500 intake size with the first year of the power valve. and the better swingarm design, I must had fixed the 85/86 ones 3 or 4 times each before I sold them

I had an 85, 86 and an 87 LT250R all three of them handled better than my banshee. 87 handled the best, was excellent once I put aftermarket shocks on it. the motor was a piece of shit though.

they are all designed by that same Yamaha factory janitor..... No Holyman I don't think so. Even the old tecates and suzuki 2 strokes handled way better than the banshee

When you change the jets, if you have it pig rich it will run like shit until it “hits the power band” “comes on the pipe” whatever fucking phrase you want to use. Trust me, the jetting I outlined will be really freaking close to what you need..... want it to be spot on? get a cool head w 21cc domes, toomey needles and vf2 reeds. Then you will have a duplicate of the set up that liked that jetting, running premium unleaded mixed 32:1 with castor 927

My shee has been all over the stock cylinder, stock stroke spectrum. with basic bolt ons from sea level to about 1000 feet mixing 32:1 280 mains ran the best with the FMF pipes. it ran ok up to 310 main, but ALWAYS ran best with a 27.5 pilot. toomey needle liked 1 notch closer to the tip and the stock needle liked the center notch. Start with the 300 main and do a plug chop. start fat it doesn't hurt....

See the post above yours. If you did not replace part #8 it will not stop leaking

stock jets are WAY TOO LEAN for those pipes. 280-300 mains 27.5 pilot and the stock needle in the middle. (stock carbs) if you haven't hurt it yet, that will get you in the ball park

http://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/categories/carbs-intakes?limit=25&page=3 https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2002/banshee-yfz350p/carburetor part #8 is the culprit. If you did not change it, you will not fix the leak

I have one. $10 plus shipping and send me the one with the broken bolt, ill include a return shipping label in the box. pm me if interested

Baller...... all the money he saved on sunscreen....

wasn't going to, but thought someone would be interested.... I'll call them and see if they are legit...pm you when I get an answer that didn't last long, ad is for fenders and a seat cover now.... still reached out. Already gone.