Toybreaker

Make them....

go with the cool head, 21cc domes, and the adjustable timing plate. if you can afford it look into the SLP pipes. Get a toomey or equivalent needle for your carbs as well.... then spend your money on the suspension, you will be gald you did. Typically "stock" is 22-24 cc range. when you get 20cc and smaller you need to run higher octane fuel. Once you up performance, reliability goes down. (unless you are OCD on maintenance)

before you worry about increased horsepower look at the basic maintenance items. Tires, ball joints, suspension bushings, shocks, do the carbs leak, reed condition, brakes. Get all the basics up to snuff, it is safe to ride and dependable. Then suspension-shocks, rims and tires and finally more power. i think a lot of people will agree with me do the suspension first, it will be much more fun to ride once you do get the power you are after.

What is currently done? We can't recommend anything without knowing what your bike already has.

tie rods mostly, but i would not call their failure only under "heavy" abuse..... Seen several gm hd's with broken tie rods on their way into or out of glamis hooked to a toy hauler......

how do you GM drivers keep from breaking steering components, other than driving like old ladies?

Download tapatalk and upload directly from your phone...

yeah sounds about right, more money in the labor than the actual chrome....If you want gorgeous chrome, pay the money, you will be happy with the finished product....

Plating shows the metal prep underneath it, the more time the plater (or customers) spend getting the metal smooth and straight(relatively speaking) the better the chrome on top ends up. Going to be getting into my mustangs chrome at the end of the summer. The bumpers are going to cost 2 g's once I am done, between deleting the bumper bolts, tucking them into the body and the "show chrome" plate job. Good chrome isn't cheap.

Don't EVER run your truck out of fuel.....

Being in Michigan, pretty sure the fuel has the anti-gel additives starting in october.....

This stuff, but not for anti gel. If it is cold as balls where you live the diesel out of the pump already has the antigel additives. -18* f and all i had to do was plug in the block heater to get it to start.

I don't have one. Got just about everything else

OVERPRICED junk

at 3200 ft start at 280 main, run the needle on the bottom clip 27.5 pilot should work for PC, FMF, and T6's not sure about t5's they like to be a little fatter

Let me check my stash when I get home today, Ill let you know

save more money, driveline cylinders, 7mm crank, trenched cases, SLP pipes {lp version for these pipes} (or your pipe of choice), bigger carbs Shocks DC converted stator and battery.... that close to new york where in the fuck do you ride at?

look at your radiator (look at the tubes under the cap), if it is all gunked up you need to clean out the radiator core....... as well as think about replacing your water pump impeller with a billet aftermarket high flow model.

pilot is probably fine, start at 310 main middle clip on needle. do a plug chop (search function, not going to write it all out) post pictures of you plugs..... buy 12 or more plugs........

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/930/59507/All-Balls-Carburetor-Repair-Kit?v=2005-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350 buy this and go through your carbs... or do some of your own research and buy just the needle and seat.

If you get a line on rebuilds for less than new let me know. I have three that need new bearings.

My bikes were set up to run at glamis. 335' elevation My bike has a cool head (21 or 22 cc domes) fatty's, stock carbs, vf2's, dyna set at +4, 280 main, 27.5 pilot and 2nd from top clip with toomey needle. Wifes bike has a cool head 22 cc domes , toomey pipes, stock carbs, boysen rad valves, K&n with air box, +4 timing, 270 main, 30 pilot, toomey needle 2nd clip from bottom. Might not have the needle positions right, been a LONG time since i have had them apart Both bikes run 927@ 32:1

All of those... Most times the carbs dumping fuel is the needle and seat being worn out, like $8 for new ones....

only a 14 year old thread. Can't you do better than this?

http://www.n-georgia.com/orv_trails.htm http://atvtrails.org/GA/Georgia.html