dajogejr

Yep...or that. I"m pretty sure 1104 is the same shit, different name on the package. Semi Drying gasket....

Both sides, thin coat. The cases or the cylinder could have the imperfection.... Yama and Honda bond are the same stuff....

If you are a fabricator or have easy access to a fab shop, I say go for it... Keep in mind, there are a lot of little things you'll come across...that will drive you nuts. For example...when the kickstarter is down, the bike won't start... Little things like that... If you have patience to see it through and do it right, and access to a fab shop, I say go for it.... Also.. planetsand.com has plenty of streetbike powered and snowmobile powered quads, might be a better resource as well....

Belive it or not...I drained the carbs before memorial weekend ...after our ride...they were fine...

brady080 has a rear adjustable strut for a raptor, not sure if it would fit a shee or not. Then again, a piece of steel or aluminium stock with two holes drilled isn't exactly rocket science...either.... I'll let you know when I get mine sealed and ready to go.... I still haven't purged my bike yet this year...nice, huh??

I think it's on par with how low yours is. As soft? Yeah, you must've clunked your melon...LOL... Stiff is fast....or...something like that...LOL. Can you come out and play this weekend?

Billet gas tank, 1.0 gallon for the drag racers baby....

You ain't lying... I don't think I'm gonna mess with the fronts...I have pretty small tires up there, but...it looks cool as hell dropped in the back, and should help get down the track a little better....

so...when you say the airbox is cut off, does that mean you're using the stock front piece (with the adapter) there's just no more sides to it? Put 310s in there.... Normally pods take 330 to 340...but a friend of mine had a motor with the same thing you're talking about, he needed leaner jetting than that. 340 would definitely be a safe, Rich starting point....though. Probably need 27.5 pilots...and if it's boggy in the midrange, lean the needle one clip (one spot toward the blunt end)...

2 things. What are ALL of your mods, temps, elevation? What jetting is in there now? How EXACTLY did you check the above items?

I just thought I'd share my experience with you all... My bike sat pretty raked as is, and I wanted to lower the rear of it a bit... I have a shaw and no link in the back. My buddy, as well as others...kept telling me to remove the nut and washer/collar on the bottom of the shock, it'll lower it quite a bit. Well, the collar is about 1/4" thick, the nut another 1/2 "... I'm thinking to myself...big deal, I drop it an inch or so... So...got bored and finally did it yesterday... Lowered the rear of my bike 4.5 inches...no BS. I measured ground to grab bar before, 32.5, and after, 28.... Free lowering, can't beat that. Word to the wise...when you thread the heim in, loctite the LAST two or three threads going into the shock. Thread it in completely, then back it out a turn or two...few drops of loctite, and get r done. I really should've taken before and after pics...but, the tape measure don't lie.... You're not only shortening the shock, but changing the angle/geometry of the rear, so...it lowers it quite a bit!!

Yama or Honda bond for the cases. To seal the base gaskets just use hi temp RTV.

AND.... You can get them cheaper than at David Allan Racing/Duneland.. Magic Racing sells 'em, and I'd bet you can find 'em on ebay...

Black hi temp rtv.... I use it on just about everything, orings, side covers, reed/intake gaskets... Did you spray soapy water around the base gaskets to find the leak? Reason why we're asking...is I'd hate to see you replace base gaskets if a crank and/or cases are leaking as well...that's all!!

I just bought some nearly new paddles. I put 20 PSI in them, left them in the sun all day yesterday...they stretched a couple inches no problem. Started at 71. At 74 now... I usually set air pressure by the wheelie factor. If you're getting air...you're getting traction. But, it's not an exact science... Air pressure, gearing, clutch weights (lockout) as well as the sand type, condition..etc., they all play a part...

Unless you know this guy...or a long standing member here can vouch for him...stay away from the deal. My buddy got hosed on a deal just recently...got a real POS with parts missing, etc., turned into a pissing match...and no one wins those...

CPI.... Out of all the "top end style, drag type" pipes, they probably have the broadest and widest curve...

I use thin RTV coat on all the orings, and the studs as well. Cool heads are ok...they like to leak...the downside. Fighting it myself right now... If your crank is already welded, use the smaller domes and race/pump fuel mix. If your crank isn't welded...use the larger domes.. Either way, you know you're ready for a rebuild real quick...

Leave the jetting the same, and do a plug chop. You'll still probably end up with a mid 40's on the pilot, 42, 45 or 48. Main is about right....I'm sure it's safe. Shearers vs. PC are night and day different...there's no other way to put it...

Spacers are cheap...and work. You could also grind some of the head off that bowl drain as well...

That's awesome JT....congrats to you and the new family... I took the liberty of posting up the great news at PS...sorry to steal thunder:) Not gonna even bother calling you about this weekend...hang with the fam my man. I can pass down my 400 in a couple years...LOL. Congrats again...call me when things have settled down and you want to get some runs in...no hurries no worries!

Easier....like 10X easier to do a banshee set of cases compared to a 4 poke. Just keep an eye on all the circlips, spacers, etc... Honestly, I rode my 4 mil cub last year and loved the motor, hated trying to shift it. IMO...once you're pushing 75HP or more, you need an override and lockup, period...

Thicker base gaskets. Raise the port timings up a hair...and give you more squish. Don't be afraid to use a little RTV and double up a base gasket to get the squish you want... Mid .040s is ideal on a stock bore motor.

I think you mean you have it shaved .080...not .080 of squish....there's a difference. Ban posted good info how to check your squish...however, for a correct reading, you need to shove the solder in parallel to the wrist pin. Otherwise, even the normal bit of back and forth rocking in the cylinder will give you a false reading... A piston won't (or shouldn't anyways...) rock side to side due to the wrist pin/rod, but it will rock back and forth...exaggerating the clearance with a false reading.

I know you need a dial caliper to find TDC on the piston, then you use timing marks on the PVL...but, I'm not 100% certain. I've only seen one guy adjusting his...on a blaster at the track. To me they're more headache than they're worth. But some SWEAR by them...