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dajogejr

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Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. Never ran LRD...some people swear by 'em though... The thought of an adjustable pipe is pretty cool...I just don't know how well they seal. Again, never ran or seen 'em in person...
  2. Yep...Shearers are distinctive looking, even his hand made cone pipes have their own character....let's see a picture or two!!!
  3. Agreed... (I just wanted to make sure he wasn't running a lockup, at high RPMs that can make a bike tough to shift...)
  4. Call Bob @ R&B Performance in Michigan. I've seen a few of his banshees run, and some of his port work. Impressive...and very, very inexpensive. His name on here is machwon, here's his number: 517-388-3662 Good guy....
  5. Get different pipes, 100%. Shearer pipes are NOT woods pipes. FMF, Toomey, DMC, Trinity....ALL are better choices for pipes over Shearer pipes....
  6. I can answer that for you....I deal with John all the time. Cash, Check, Money Order...basically anything but paypal. And if you need his address, I've got that too... Just got a 96 stator and 96 harness off him...and we've swapped in the past. 125 shipped for pipes is a steal, and just what you need for a play bike. I'll PM you his address right now....
  7. Nice bike..helluva deal with all that suspension/chassis work... Good luck to you, free bump for a MI brother....
  8. Glad you saw this...JT...I was just going to PM you... John, throw in a bag of skittles and a used Q Tip...you got a sale...LOL....
  9. NO. NO power, no advantage...just one more place a gasket can leak. However...if you run larger carbs on a stock cylinder, you'll need them to clear the clutch arm, or...you grind the bottom of the carbs. Do not waste your money....
  10. Drain and fill...1.75 qts. Complete dissasembly, 2.0 qts. If you have a lockup clutch 2qts on a drain and refil... Get a clymers manual...
  11. Modquad or pro-design. I personally like the pro-design, but others swear by the mod quad...
  12. Ok...that motor should run well then...didn't see porting anywhere in your sig... The useful range on a air screw is .75 or so to 2.5 turns out... Put a 45 in... Lightly seat each air screw. Turn each 1/2 turn out. Warm the bike up... Go for a ride. Come back, turn each air screw out 1/2 turn more, wait 20 seconds for this change to take effect. Go for a ride... Adjust the air screws to the highest idle... If you get to 2.5 turns out and it still blubbers, go the next size leaner pilot.... Whole lot easier to turn those screws than remove each float bowl and pilot..... :thumbsup:
  13. Is that motor ported yet? If not...I think Shearers and 33PWks are overkill. That being said...have you tried adjusting your air screws at all with each new pilot you've thrown in?
  14. No offense, but that'll be the day I spend 60 on pipe clamps...unless my bike was ultra bling...sheesh. Find a set off a member here (I think theshee has a set for sale). Make sure you have some kind of rubber mount on the pipe hangers, they need to shift a little...so the pipes don't crack.... You can find aluminum hangers on ebay cheap too...normally less than 35 with shipping.
  15. Yamabond on side covers is uneccesary...and over kill. Overkill for water pump cover, too. You have to have it for cases... Any old chemical resistant RTV will work fine for either the WP gasket and side cover....they don't get that hot. Clean both surfaces with a fine grit paper, a scotchbrite pad on an angle grinder does wonders. Just don't get trigger happy...a coarse pad on a die grinder can take aluminum off pretty fast... Thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket....don't over do it.
  16. And...when you talk to them, be 100% clear to them you intend to run it 1/4 mile. That long of a distance has a HUGE impact on fuel needs, especially if you're gonna run alky...
  17. How much for the stock head??
  18. Yep...Mike's a good guy and doesn't sell junk... Look at how clean his bikes are, and well done. That should tell you how well he takes care of his stuff.... I wish I had an extra buck or two. I've been dying to build a 4 mil cub for the dunes....and playing around... Free Bump!
  19. He he...yes it is. Why don't you run a mechanical Don? Reliable, no need to worry about batteries...and they just work. They have a store up here that sells the Mikuni hi flow pump (65 L per hour, compared to the normal 35) for 47.... Only way to fly with alky IMO... I'm 250LB too...Don, no worries. Good to see real men riding their own bikes....!!!
  20. Yeah, you'll need more mods. Not too many guys on here running NOS. How much are you looking to spray? I think you should get better pipes, porting, and a programmable ignition for use with NOS is a good idea... Probably bigger carbs, better fuel delivery system...etc. You're a ways off from putting that bike on NOS. However...if you just wanted a quick spray...say 10HP or so...well, probably do able...
  21. If I'm not mistaken, he sold the triple and it's design...
  22. Air pockets aren't your problem... Those are drain plugs, not bleed plugs.... All I do is move the lower hose up and down, and squeeze it from the motor to the radiator...that's normally where the air hides. Burp it...if you will. I agree w/ J...your WP probably isn't line up and circulating.
  23. Unless you got all kinds of money for someone else to do it for you...it's time to learn...the lesson will be invaluable. The best thing you could buy right now is a clymers manual, you can find 'em on ebay for 20 bucks or so, or 30 to 40 brand new at a stealership. it will show you in detail how to remove and check most items on the bike... Welcome to the club...and the addiction.
  24. WD 40 or PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, any lube will do, and use it very, very liberally... Remember, 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn out... Take your time, alum is very soft and the threads cut very, very easy...just use common sense...
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