dajogejr

Yep...figures. Just the pipes I want. My boy jankab PM'd you about them... I'd have to sell mine first to get the cabbage...so, sell 'em to whoever shows you the money first. Those are big bore, small flage pipes though...exactly what I'm looking for. Well...if they're not sold, Jankab turns 'em down...and I can get mine sold...I'll hit you up.

I agree with Wes...I'd pay 50 bucks if he was willing to throw those needles in and dyno tune it for you...surely not 50 just for needles (that...as pointed our, are readily available). CEL is is a popular needle choice, but he might want 75 for them.... Nick...I'd do as Wes suggested. You might hear a few good jokes and some BSing...but Jeff can probably get you in the right direction, especially since it's his porting...

FMF Fatty would be my choice... Bump the timing to +4 with a 35 dollar plate and it'll be a whole new bike.

Pics and pricing please...if you still got them. Love my pipes...but I'm liking 2 out one side right about now.... You might be able to use my pipes...JT. They are hand built for a 7mil cub...just need chrome... Stroker...you bought a DM cylinder, right? And these do not fit...correct?

Free bump for ya homie. I know exactly where you're at...did the same thing beginning of this year on my 10 mil build. How bout some pics!!!! Good luck! Nice prices as well!!

I'd say 8 paddle extreme or 9 paddle hauler.

Good idea to locktite the cranknut... I always do...cheap insurance.

I agree...squish is CRITICAL on a cub. .040 to .050 is what I like to run, but I like lower compression, higher timing advance. I'm surprised your compression is at 145...mine was a lot higher, on my 4 mil with 20cc domes... What do your plugs look like? White? Tan? What jets are you running in them?

I'm pretty sure that included tearing the bottom end apart and inspecting everything as well, including the crank/bearings, etc.

Is that cub on alky or gas? If 12 were burning up...maybe regular 14 paddles (which, mine will be for sale as soon as they're repaired, on lightened rims already...) or some 12 to 13 paddle Extremes.... Just my thoughts.... Another thing...what are you running for suspension? Link, no link, shock type?? If you're running stock shock, with linkage and it's not been stiffened up...you're wasting time right there. Your holeshot energy is being wasted.... I ran a 6 over arm, 10 paddle hauler with a link suspension and Marvins on the my 4 mil/gas cub last year. It hooked VERY hard...almost too good, but it was controlable. I ran stock gearing and launched in 2nd.

OH...sorry, my bad...I read that wrong. I thought you said the guy in the picture with the green bike (speedrip) broke his cases. I know he got a no sparky ticket...I was sitting front row as the Green SUV pulled by us, behind him...lights on and sirens going...

Bro...you gonna go through the same thing I am. 14 over with 14 paddle haulers...and I'm 250 lbs. I blazed the tires through 3rd...easily. Now I'm gonna pickup Extremes, shorten up my gearing and launch in 2nd. I was running 16/39 and launching in 1st.... When I ran as WMSD Friday, I made a 3/4 throttle pass, then a full throttle pass. I was .2 quicker on my 3/4 throttle pass...but 3MPH faster on my full throttle pass. I spun the tires till half track till they finally caught up and launched me like i Hit a nitrous button on my full throttle pass!!!

Speedrip broke his chain and cases? Shitty weekend for him, DNR also got him for no Sparkies.... If that was Saturday...you were about 100 to 200 feet from where I was on the drag strip...I was about 3/4 the way down, same side...by all the Tyson racing and Shelby Boyz crews... It was pretty smooth early...but by 2PM or so it was getting whooped out.... I had my 10 mil out early, but put it away after it started leaking coolant again... Actually...if you look at your third picture, on the right side of the antenna on the truck, you can see the back of two of the trucks. The one to the right is Brad Tyson's, to the left is ScottytoHotty's. And the bright blue truck in front is Mikes (sick paint job, flips purple to blue...) We were right in front of all of them. Later in the afternoon...that dip shit in the red/brown high stepper buggy (bad ass buggy) wheelied from one side of the track to the other, cutting off our friend John. He gave the buggy an earful...

Note to self #2: Do not ride Hollister's bike if he offers.... LOL... Just playing with ya. Tyson Racing does nice banshee frame work. Mine is a complete cut and lightened chassis with a 'moly subframe as well.

You can use any two stroke carb (single) that will fit in the intake boot and seal properly....there's nothing special. I'd recommend at least at 35PWK for a single setup, though...

Trav... PM Lethaface. jeremy has a set. Also, PM your shipping address to me. I'll send you my left over stainless bolts...I think I'm set now. One you get them, see what is there, what is not...we'll come together on an agreeable price.... Dave

Maybe you missed an email...I talked to him all weekend (we went to Silver Lake and I stayed at his parents house there)... Basically, in a nutshell...the parts you wanted to trade him are worth more to you to sell for ebay prices than his labor and parts he'd need to cover the build....and make it worth his while... No one works for free...but he damn near does, I swear... I'm not trying to stir a pot or anything...anyone on hear knows jankab and I are good friends....but we became good friends because of his honesty, work ethic and overall good nature. He's fun as hell to party with, too...LOL. I will even go out of my way to help, Ray... I live in St. Clair Shores, 12 and Harper area. If you dropped the motor at my house, I will get it to him. He lives in Canton, but works 2 miles from me. We meet up for lunch 2 to 3 times a week... When he's done, you can come pick it up from my house again... That's gotta save you some $$ and time instead of driving to him and/or shipping it. Between his work/prices and my offer to help out as best I can...if you can get a better offer than that, by all means you should jump all over it. I know I sure would!!! I know your A&S motor ran great for a long time, but Dan Hull is more swamped then ever after taking the record at PS drags a month or so ago...good luck getting a run of the mill, standard old banshee motor done by him any time soon...and anywhere near 500 bucks!!!

I was at the track Friday night...and at the dunes ALL day Saturday. At the strip...of course. I got another 10 or so passes on my 10 mil, started leaking coolant again, so I put it back on the trailer and brought my 400 EX out to play and watch.... I was on the far side near the Shelby Boyz and the Tyson racing crew.... We left after it started coming down pretty good...rode my 400 back to the trailer and got soaked pretty well...glad I wasn't on my drag bike, that's for sure. It was fun..some cool shit out there no doubt!!! I'll have my kinks ironed out soon, I have no worries... Brad Tyson was literally 10 to 20 feet behind me almost all day Saturday...he was working on his buddies bike or something or other...speaking of, Tyson still has my air compressor....LOL!!! I think Tyson popped a seal or something, the motor was torn down at their cabin Saturday night...and that guy was working on it...in the dark, to get it all back together. He is a trooper to say the least!!! Had a great time!!!

My stator itself was bad. I used Loctite on the pickup coil screws (and lock washers on the timing plate bolts) My wiring harness is perfect, stripped of TORS and Light ends, sealed up and taped perfectly. I don't even use a regulator (obviously with no lights) It was dead as a doornail. Now...they replaced it no questions asked, and turn around time from me shipping it to them...and having a new one back in my hands was 10 days...very, very fair IMO. However, if this one goes south on me...I'll never buy another RS part...

If they're not stock carbs...swap them left to right... If they are stockers, just make that tube longer...and kinda loop it over the top. This will tell you if it's a carb problem or not. Then swap reed cages, making sure you seal them back up. The bike will still fire if you got spark and an air leak. Check the pickup gap, remove the flywheel and shake it, make sure there are no broken magnets, etc....

Call Jeff @ FAST, get a Magnum billet basket. It held up to my 4 mil cub motor all last year, and it still looked brand new when I tore it down. In my 10 mil now. I'm pretty sure it comes with new cushions, too. You have to drill the old gear off the OEM basket, I think there is 4 rivets..or, you can grind the heads off on the basket side (you're not reusing the basket anyways...) The aftermarket basket has shouldered allen head bolts you 100%, MUST use loctite on. I think his basket runs 150 or 160....well worth it. He'll tell you how to measure/inspect your inner and outer hub, as well....they're cheap to replace, but if they're not in good shape, they'll waste your clutch in no time....

Your carbs are close... Have you checked for dirt in the carbs, good spark/ground and an air leak?? That jetting should be close enough to get it running and not foul plugs that bad. Warm the bike up, turn the air screw all the way in, LIGHTLY seated. Turn it 1/2 turn out. Go for a ride. Turn it another 1/2 turn out...wait 20 seconds for this adjustment to set in, go for another ride. Keep repeating this process until you get the HIGHEST possible idle out of the air screws. Then they're done. Then use the idle screw to set the desired idle (usually 1400 to 1800 RPM)...

Normally...you would need higher than pump gas octane for 165PSI, especially with timing advanced. However...if you've run 20 gals of fuel through it.....hmmm. YOu might be on the ragged edge of running pump gas with compression alone, advancing the timing could quickly put your over the edge. I'd run a mix of premium pump and 110 octane race fuel with your setup. I personally err on the safe side when it comes to octane and jetting...a little rich on the jetting, and a tad more octane than needed. best thing you can do is look at your plugs often to tell. I'm lost though...you have a long rod stroker motor, bigger carbs on the way, but a 2 into 1 pipe....? That two into one pipe is kiling your RPMs... If you're into MX...I think you may be wasting your money on 33's...stockers work very well for tight and low end situations.

That is exactly what I was thinking... Either your jetting is off...and/or you're running out of fuel in the bowls holding it WOT at that long. If it appears to be lean...it's because it is. Not getting enough fuel to the motor...you've got enough oil in the gas.

Mike...talk to Jankab. One of his buddies has a newer Raptor, stock except for a pipe and air filter...and after this weekend at the dunes he may be looking to get a 10 mil cub bike... Jankab rode this raptor too...he went up with us...