dajogejr

He's driving for Hendricks...and Kyle Bush is out...

Look into your local laws. If they require off road vehicles to carry insurance....you're hosed. Depending on your record, they could differ the ticket, or take it under advisement. Then...you're put on a probation period of 6 months to a year normally...if you get another ticket, they smack you with both of them. If you keep your nose clean, the original ticket goes away. It's basically like this, you'll pay for court costs....but won't get any points. And points are what the insurance company hit you on for your premium... If you got a tarnished driving record...good luck!!!

Brad.. They also sell knock off K&N filters that are much cheaper then name brand K&N and work just as well... Just paying for the name...

It my opinion the maxload is fine...and cheaper. I had the maxload installed on my 4 mil crank from Jeff. It was a very nice bearing. However, I do have a TZ on my 10 mil... Really...it's insurance to have a better quality bearing on the PTO side once you start getting into bigger cranks...and a piece of mind... Jeff has very good pricing on 4 mil hot rods. He also does a very nice weld on them, factory welds on the hot rods are garbage. SoCallinIt (Steve) bought my cubs and crank I ran all last year, and he's had no issues with them...and loves them as well....

Depends on what kind of pipes. Some may, some may not. The whole point is I think if you built a motor that could use OOF pipes, you're gonna extend it out back...and then it's a non-issue. I know that's not the answer you're looking for, but it's reality....

Well...it was 6 months ago he posted this...either he figured it out, or blew it up...LOL...

Good luck buddy... Normally, you can get a new one, welded and with good bearings for 450 to 480. Used in good shape (drop back in and run) for around 350 to 400. If you get one with trashed bearings, 200 to 300... The cranks aren't expensive new, there's not much wiggle room once they become used. Now a 7 or 10 mil crank, you can save big money by buying a used one...

You want 8 inch rear rims for drag racing. 10 are good for duning more than drag....

I thought you guys liked the short rod for drag racing, Roger....revs quicker... Maybe that was someone else...my bad. Yeah, I prefer the 115mm rod too...

I'm 100% certain you do not need 32.5 pilots. That's three sizes larger than stock. You MAY need 27.5...up one, but doubt it. Pull the flywheel off with the correct, thread in style puller. They're 10 to 15 bucks from a dealer or ebay. You use a mulimeter to check the ohms on the stator... YOu really should get a clymers manual, the specs for this kind of thing are in there... If you choke it and it runs better...the carbs are dirty...period....bigger jets won't help, cleaning the crap from teh carbs will.

We're still missing something... I think your crank messed up a flywheel or stator... If you have to work the throttle to get them both firing, it is not idling and firing fine....

If the problem doesn't switch cylinders when you swap plug wires, it's not the coil. Flywheel or Stator more than likely... Are you sure it's not sparking...or is it possible it's not getting any fuel until you open the throttle some more? Like a plugged pilot jet in the carb, which...makes starting damn near impossible. Bike should still start with 105 PSI without being pulled around...but, it's gonna take some kicks. If the tester was accurate at all...it's time for a rebuild...

You have to kick it until it stops going up...often 15 to 20 kicks or more. As said, swap coil leads....see if it follows that lead.

Pin it and feed the clutch out....if you just dump it..normally you'll either wheelie too much or just spin.

Can you explain exactly what you mean by spark acting weird???

Gonna take a wild guess you're at or near sea level, and ride in 65 to 90 degree temps. 27.5 pilots, 350 mains will be a safe start. Domes depend...on your elevation and if you want to run pump or race gas. Lower elevation....pump gas. 21cc domes to be safe, POSSIBLE 20cc... And get rid of that boost bottle, or be prepared to be ridiculed...

What is your elevation where you ride? 105 is real low at or near sea level...if you're at 5000 to 8000 feet....you have another problem.

You're gonna probably find a real nice hole in the piston, broken crown, ring land, etc. Either way you slice it, pull the motor out, split the cases and have the crank checked too... Be a waste of time and money to put fresh pistons in and have a chunk of metal waiting to waste a crank bearing...if it hasn't already.... 135PSI is really low for a 4 mil cub unless you're in really high elevation...I'd be curious to see what that side looks like as well, post up some pics....

Yep, stop running that bike. If something is damaged, running it is only gonna make it worse...

I would make sure your choke circuit isn't plugged open, etc... It's surely not going to hurt if you throw a larger pilot in, odd that you'd need it with an airbox and lid still...though. But that goes to show you, each bike is different... Actually...csr...you're on the right track. For low speed circuits on carbs, there's either an air screw or a fuel screw. If the screw is behind the slides, it is an air screw...turning it out gives more air, in less air. If the screw is in front of the slide, it's a fuel screw...turning it out gives more fuel, in less fuel. Turning the screw clockwise will always give you more, air or fuel, depending where on the carb it is.... Turn your air screw 3.0 then 3.5 turns out. If it runs better, put bigger pilots in. I think the usable range on the air screw is 3 or 3.5 turns out...might be less. Put bigger pilots in ...start with 1 turn out. What are you gapping your plugs at...by the way? You shouldn't need a hotter plug.... Also, is your air filter cleaned and/or oiled properly? An over oiled or dirty air filter richens things up too....

Even if the jetting is spot on, a long WOT run will run the carbs out of gas... The jetting plays a part when there is enough fuel in the float bowl to feed the motor...at the rate you're sucking down fuel at WOT...it doesn't take long to empty that float bowl, especially on a 4 mil cub. It's possible it's lean on the jetting....too. But, IF you're gonna hold it WOT...you'll need not only clean and proper jetting, but a means to get more fuel to the carbs themselves...

Odd...maybe it's a regional thing... Should be just fine.

My best guess is you ran it out of gas...and it seized up. Cubs suck gas like no tomorrow....and they suck alky even quicker... If you're gonna run WOT in any gear for more than a few seconds, you need to find ways to get more fuel to it. Larger Float bowls, dual pingle, a fuel pump/carb setup...etc. Is this a gas or alky motor?

upload them to: imageshack.us Cut and paste the forum embedded image link into a post.

I"m not trying to sound like a jerk...but those mains didn't make the difference...period...especially only going up one size. Unless your main falls off the carb and into the bowl, they don't effect starting (and yes...I can tell you that one based on experience....) Here's how you set your air screws. Warm the bike up. Turn each air screw all the way in, lightly seated. Turn each one out 1/2 turn. Start the bike....go for a ride. Turn each one out 1/2 turn, wait 20 seconds for this setting to take effect, go for another ride. When you get your highest idle RPM, your air screws are set. Then use the TORS, or brass idle screws if TORS is removed, to set your idle. 1400 to 1800 RPM is spec.