dajogejr

I agree 100%. A chain break is a MUST HAVE in the tool box. You can grind a head off, pound it through, etc...or just use this simple tool and it takes seconds....

Any home pink insulation will work...owens/coning, etc... Just remove the paper.

I had a 4 mil wiseco, my 10 mil is a crankworks. I can tell you it's neither of those... This one has the nub in the center bearings....which neither my wiseco or crankworks bearings had, unless this guy rebuilt it and used OEM or similar center bearings.... If you can pick it up for 200 or so, and the bearings/rods are in good shape, I say go for it!!!

14/42, launch in second. Play with the air pressure...probably between 3 to 5 PSI, depending on the sand...

What kind of pipe hangers are you looking for? I've got chrome ones that do me no good with out of frame pipes... They're in average shape...

I hit 77MPH at Milan Drag Way, 1/4 mile (more than enough space to top out a banshee) but I removed the front and rear fenders... It as like 73 with the fenders on...and I think I weighed about 190 to 200 lbs back then.

Mains will make 0 difference in starting. idle to 1/8 throttle is air screw and pilot, 1/8 to 3/4 is needle...3/4 to WOT is main. When you changed mains, you probably spilled a little gas in the cylinders, making it start easier... Try this. Warm it up, pull the choke halfway out. If it makes the middle run better, richen the needle. If it's worse....lean it out. Since you said it bogs, I'd lean the needle one clip on each. Make sure you're using fresh spark plugs, fresh gas and oil as well....

Honestly guys...Jeff @ FAST has a clutch that is the shiznit. I can't kill mine....and he's got 'em in stock... Give him a call.

Look on here in the classified or on fleabay for cylinders... Good luck..

Wow....it's clean alrighty...

PM jankab...I'm pretty sure he still has a 4 mil super cub coming up for sale...

Dan...what kind of frame and suspension components are you running right now.... To below 4.2...you'll need light weight drag parts, all around. Shocks, arms, front end, drag axle...etc. Even at your weight....

Not neccessarily... If the leak is between the water jacket and the cylinder, which...normally they are...it will leak coolant into the cylinder, but you won't see any bubbles on the outside...

I saw on the ESPN ticker at lunch Jr. is driving for Hendrick's next year...

Doesn't sound like every step there...3 hours on plugs will tell you absolutely squat.... You don't need to cut the threads off if you have a light and can look down into the plug...look how thick the ring is..and it's color.

Do this, plugs can take some time to color, and keep in mind...a plug chop ONLY tells you the mains...if done in this manner... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Tight knit group over there...those are all really, really good guys I personally know. You were never very clear if you were copying his design or not...and that's all they were getting at... He's not on the forums very much...but he's a real nice guy...when he's on, I'm sure he'll reply. I don't know who he runs with...but he lives a solid 3 or 4 hours from the rest of us on the East Side...

I agree....hit up planetsand.com....a LOT more drag racers. Also...more detail. Eye to eye length, PSI.... Good luck....

Have you tried posting this on Planet Sand as well?? West Coast guys would probably eat this thing up...and the shipping!!

That is kick ass...retro style. I feel like I just got dropped onto my head and sent back to the disco era....just need some tight shirts and pants, BeeGee music, a disco ball and a whole lot of hair (which...I surely can not supply)... That is a "different type of cool" looking ride...badass... :thumbsup: :wink:

Yes...but that was also on my cub motor. They love timing and compression. I'd go +7..see how it goes...easy to raise timing!!

Yep.... I rode CRs for a long time, but...the reality is...I'm not a jumper... Bike are great for tracks, or if you're a nut case that launches off dunes. For all the riding I do...quad is the way to go. I did love the cushy ride of my bikes back in the day though...

Yep...I totally understand. I had one on my stock motor with T5s. I thought it was easier to ride in the trails...however, I'm not a tighter/technical trail kinda guy, too old for that shit. I rode UP Michigan trails, basically 4th and 5th gear two car wide sled and seasonal road trails....I don't blame you, especially since you already tried it. I have a hard time comprehending the stock thing....so, sorry if I'm coming off wrong...but I understand wanting that last little bit of edge...while trying to keep it trail worthy. I said I was gonna keep mine 50/50 dune/drag...and I built a 100% dragster the next year...damn addiction I tell you...

You can remove the WHOLE brake system on front without opening a line. But...you'll have to be careful to not get air in the system...so I'd overfill the resevoir when taking it off to be safe. It's not the drag, it's the weight savings. VForce would be a waste to me without a ported motor, others my disagree... Neither pipe, CPI or Shearer is going to run as well as it should without porting...but, of the two for your needs, CPI will be better. They come on sooner...and have a broader power span than Shearer.... Tires are key!!! Smoothies up front will always help, way less drag. You can remove the pipe tabs, air box tabs, heel guard tabs....minimal weight savings, but...cleans it up a bit. Those rules are pretty tight...gonna be hard after that. I kinda browsed this thread....you have higher compression...did you bump the timing too? What about a shaved flywheel? (Sorry if you already covered that...)

Well...I've been talking with Tim @ Titan racing back and forth...and he doesn't use RTV. He greases the orings to hold them in place, RTVs the studs going into the cylinder...and uses copper washers and acorn nuts... And he uses a lot of NOSS heads. So...there you go...more than a few ways to skin a cat....