Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. Good info...guys. I'm looking into a set of T-5s or SSTs this weekend...and I'm expecting similar jetting myself... Thanks!
  2. I read somwhere to take the hose off, and reverse it. See if that lets it clear... Oh...it was on Toomey's website for installing their pipes...see if it helps.
  3. I found some cheap T-5's I'm going to pick up. There's a guy up here that built an 87 years ago...he works at a bike dealership. My friend bought the 'shee off of him when we got out of High School. That 'shee had the most perfect motor I've ever ridden... Smooth power just about everywhere, ran flawless in cold or heat, and one kick everytime. Ran like a champ for years. He still works at that dealer, and I"m going to give him my 'shee end of this year. I know he cut new boost ports, and did a crazy port job, but...left it reliable... My buddy rode his, HARD, for over two years and never replaced a ring, clutch, etc.... That guy new his stuff. My plan is Wintertime, porting and the whole 9 yards. I'm gonna have fun ripping for this year on a piped shee...
  4. Well...that's why I came here, that's good to know. I'm looking at a set of T5's right now...never used. I don't plan on doing anythine else this year...but next year it's gonna get the whole port and polish job, possibly bigger carbs and a NOSS head....so, good to know. Thanks...all!
  5. Wow...I've long known PC is great on bikes....used on mine for a long time. The Shee is a different animal...though. I'd like to see a Banshee Pipe shootout...couldn't find one on the net. Toomey has some dyno curves on his site, but...of course his wins in all of them... The Turner pipes looked good, though...
  6. Take a look at Motion Pro too... http://motionpro.com
  7. Ok...I'll be getting Pipes quickly...would like to know your thoughts. Intake side is ready... 2-1 Uni from Toomey, picking up VForce 3 this weekend. I've always read Toomey is king. But, I've been reading good about the DMC Alien, not to mention they're a bunch cheaper. I ride mostly open trails, a little drag and a few Dune trips lined up. So, what do you think? DMC or T-6's?
  8. Those look interesting... How easy is it to air them up with the caliper/sterring/backing plate assembly all right there? Either way...you're gonna have to take the rim off...and remove the old valve stem. Drilling is no big deal....and, Valve stems are about 1.50 or so...each. Your choice...
  9. Just your average...woodsy trails. Bit of everything...whoops, ruts...some rocks, but tight. I settled on the 21's...they had 'em in stock so I nabbed 'em. Gonna get them mounted tomorrow...
  10. Yep...yep. Picking up my Holeshot XCRs tonight from Magic...lucky enough to live only 20 minutes from them. I got the XCRs out back, and will have the matching set up front now.... I've read/heard the XCRs are the ticket for trails...which, is mostly what I (we) Ride... http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=40&catid=106 It fried the stock rears...(go figure) So...I'm looking forward to hooking and throwing some roost on my 3 buds and their TRX450Rs...(well...hopefully...
  11. Yep...been a couple of years since my buds had their 'shees. But...when I worked on them for 'em, it was one of the first things I did. Next to nothing for $$ invested, and I would have to say you get between 3 and 4 inches of extra width. Would you agree...bigboybanshee?
  12. They make a tool, it's a long handle...that screws onto the top of the threaded part of the stem. You then rip it out. Yes, it will ruin it 9 times out of 10. Any automotive or bike repair shop has this. Or...once the bead is broken, you can carefully take a razor knife and cut the old valve stem out from the inside, too. Honestly...you might be better off taking these to a shop that does tires. They can do it in 1/4 of the time you can...and probably only charge 5 to 10 bucks each. As for drilling the new stem...I'd put it in the middle of the ring... It's not going to hit anything...and I'd keep it away from the outer most part of the rim, to a rock/stick. etc. doesn't hit it. Obviously, where ever you do place it...it has to be 100% flat so the stem seals properly... When I get my rims back...later this week, I'll post a pic or two. I'm going to pick up my new fronts today (XCRs) and get them mounted tomorrow or Wednesday...
  13. Yes....you can get any old automotive style valve stem. You could even get a steel locking style, if you want. I'm not sure what size it is. I want to say 3/4 ", but I'm not sure...you have two choices. 1...remove the old valvestem, and measure that hole with either a Micrometer, tape measure or a drill bit. 2. I'm sure the valve stem will either have a marking on it...or the box the guy pulls it out of will. Honestly...I just had mine done by a friend who works at a shop ( I Just got back from a vacation)...so, I don't know off the top of my head. Should be cake to figure out...though!! Youre shee is really gonna love the corners now. I've got a Durablue Axle and my rear rims swapped...so, it's almost 6 inches wider than stock out back... It loves to carve!!!
  14. Hello... Just got a pair of ITP Holeshot XCR's for the rear. one of my fronts has a non-fixable hole...and, it's worn anyways. So...getting a matching set of XCR's up front, too. My question, I see they make 'em in a 21X7X10 and a 22X7X10. The 22's are 2.00 more a tire, big deal. What is the benefit of a 22, other than a minimal gain in clearance? Wouldn't it roll a bit more in corners? I trail ride 85% of the time...
  15. Remove the front valve stems. Buy 4 new valve stems. In the original hole, pull a new valve stem inwards...towards the inside of the rim. Or...backwards if you will. That will plug the original hole. Then, using the drill, drill a hole for the valve stem on the inside of the rim, pulling that valve stem out... It's wise to remove your tires completely...so you can clean out any shavings and chamfer the new hole so it doesn't cause any rips/tears in the new valve stem. Then...of course, swap tires in front. This will give you about an extra 3 inches or so width in the front. HOWEVER...be warned. It will put more stress on wheel bearings, etc. YOu might want to check their condition beforehand. Now...that being said. I've done this to two 'shees in the past...both 87's...and they were ridden for years without issue.
  16. Ron...you were 100% dead on. When I leaned the pilots today...I double checked. One had the liggle jet thing, the other didn't. And...of course, I did have 'em backwards.. Sorted...and thanks again!
  17. I just had 'em all apart...I should've read here first. Put the 25's in...did clean it up a bit. I'll put the clip back on both next week... Now..question. Idled and ran and sounded pretty good. However...when I pulled the choke half or all the way out...it wanted to die out. Soon as I put it back in...ran fine. So...sounds like my next move is move the clips up one, and then the screws out 1/2 to 1 1/2 turns... Also...my dumb ass did put the float bowls on wrong. They were back'ards.... All set now, though. Thanks for the tips...guys. This bike's always been a strong runner, but...as said, years ago...I just threw some richer jets in to compensate for the more air...and never had time to fine tune it. Now, of course...it's my bike, and I know it can be just a bit cleaner. Keep in mind...it's about 25 to 35 degrees here...so, I expect a little richer, too. I should add...they were in the 3rd before I got into this...so, I think with leaner pilots and mains, clip is next....then air screws.
  18. After reading around here a bit...I agree. Here's the thing...bought this off a friend. I did all the work on it years ago..probably around 98. I don't remember jetting it this fat....but, when I took the carbs off, it had 250 mains and 30 pilots. Even for as cold as it is here...it was still rich. So...I bumped the mains and pilots down one each. Even so...I think they pi's are richy...too. Gonna go order the stock 25 pilots tomorrow from the dealer...unless you can point me towards a cheaper, quicker alternative. Last tuesday, I ordered the pilots from 27.5 to 32.5, and mains from 210 to 250...without even knowing what was in it. Got 'em Friday. So...I'm missing stock pilots...got a good, cheap and quick source? Oh, and thanks again for the advice.
  19. Yeah...a wrench buddy of mine that works at a local Honda/Suzuki dealer said the same...late last night. Thanks much! I looked at each bowl very...very carefully. They both seemed to have that tiny little jet in there...looked similar to a pilot jet... Can that be? I've got another post in the jetting/mod forum...I think i'm going to go back to the stock 25 Pilot jet to clean up the bottom...I'll double check then.... Thanks again, RBD. Feels good to be back in the saddle again after a little time off!
  20. Need some advice here. I've used the pinned jetting sheet...what a great article...thanks. I'm trying to fine tune it...though. And I'm trying to accelerate the curve. 96 shee. Stock, except for: Airbox removed, K&Ns on the back. Boyseen Reeds in stock cages. TORS removed, Motion Pro twist kit and Toomey Idle kit. That's it. T-6's are going on later this year...but, till then. I'm in MI, it's about 25 to 35 degrees. Around 1000ft or so elevation. In the stock carbs, I've got stock needle in 4th clip, 250 mains and 27.5 pilots. 1 full turn out on the air screws. No...I haven't gotten a chance to rip and check the plugs...yet. Up and down the street is about it... It seems just a bit flat off idle. Mid to top seem pretty good. Starting is a little tough dead cold. Once it's a little warm, though...the good old banshee half kick and it purrs to life and idles pretty smooth. Bogs a little. Do you think it's possible even with the one bump up from stock pilots it's still too rich? I read you need to lean the needle with REEDs...but, shouldn't it be richer with the ab removed and K&Ns? Thanks!
  21. Hello....all. I wish this didn't have to be my first post. 96 banshee...going through all the jetting. I installed the Toomey idle kit, no issues. Cleaned up the whole gig. Now...I used compressed air to blow them dry after a good, thoughough cleaning. One carb has this tube on the bottom, the other doesn't. I don't remember if the one had one from the get go... I think it's for the choke cirucuit..but, I'm not sure. Please see attached pic. Am I missing a tube, is this normal...or...did I kill some brain cells last night that might have done me good? Thanks!! Ok...I can't seem to attach the pic, even though I shrunk it pretty small... Any ideas? It's only 134KB.
  • Create New...