dajogejr

Please use the search button, this has been covered a gazillion times. Make sure you are ready for everything you need to run a cub, not just a cylinder...by that I mean override trans, lockup clutch, longer swingarm, new pipes, new paddles, new carbs (if you don't have larger ones already)... That's just the tip of the iceberg....

http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/2#Post535897

First, please take your caps lock off. Do you have a lockup too? We run ATF Type F in our override/lockup trannys. If it's a lockup too, run the full 2 quarts.

I think there is a little jet in the back of the bell on the carb...is this plugged or missing perhaps? Does it have the correct air screw in it? Any chance an old piece of an air screw oring came apart inside there? You''ve more than got your bases covered, it's gonna be something whacky...

I can always try...no guarantees...though...

My pleasure, very welcome... :cool:

Ah....didn't catch any of that, Snop...gotcha!!!

No...I think (I HOPE) he's looking to trade the clutch plus cash for the part he wants. This clutch rocks...big time. I might just trade my cool head for it...hmm...

Have you checked the motor for air leaks? Checked all the ignition components? I'm thinking it may be electrical...NOT jetting.

I'll try and get you a pic of their tensioner on my bike...Mark. It's nice... I've never personally dealt with Rob. Some very close to me have...and they will never do it again. Without getting into too many details, buddy of mine built a complete turn key bike. Cub motor...the works. The guy that bought it fried a clutch...that's it. Took it to RDZ...and Rob told him he needed new carbs, the pistons were used (total BS), needed a whole bunch of other stuff, when really he just needed a clutch... Total BS job....ripped this guy off for quite a large tab, no Vaseline included. That's why I don't like or trust him Travis. It's too bad, too... He does make some very nice pipes for the cub and other drag motors... But his stuff overall is over priced...

Get some coffee...will ya? He said boot, not the joint itself... :thumbsup: It's really self explanatory...and you're gonna be cussing up a storm. You'll get a boot and a clip that looks like a key ring. It coils around 3 or 4 times, and it's a bitch to get on. Two small screwdrivers work well... I had to do this putting the tie rod ends on my drag bike... It took a few beers.

Try that with an override tranny on a dune/drag bike... It's just like anything else. You're going to get 1million answers how to do this. If you bought a motor from a builder, follow their advice. It's their ass. I used to heat cycle, take two or three rides varying the throttle, really never going past 3/4 throttle, waiting for a tank of gas to beat on it. Last year...I put a motor together, heat cycled it....and put it on the dyno. I changed my ways due to my own personal experience... My motor looked phenomenal when I took it apart. I beat the hell out of it all last year....and Steve (SoCallinIt) bought my cylinder and crank...and it's still running good. Pistons looked good... I was going to mic everything just for giggles, but I already knew I was building a 10 mil this year, no need... To each is own. You're not going to hurt anything taking it sorta easy starting off, that's for sure...

Take my word for it...spring for a good quality torque wrench. I bought a 40 or 50 dollar wrench from Murray's auto parts, thought it'd be good enough, ended up costing me a weekend of riding. 20ft. lbs of torque was actually about 10 or 12 on this cheapo wrench...which I learned the hard way. Luckily, it only cost me an oring kit and some water for the radiator.....nothing more.

This is good stuff. My home PC is down, where all my pics are stored...but I have a similar story to travis' bikes. My 96 was bone stock except for a durablue axle and pod filters when I bought it in 05. Then it went to a bolt on bike in 05....a 4 mil cub last year, to a 10 mil cub on alky this year. Although my bikes will probably never look at good and clean as yours...Trav. I'll have to post up the pics when I get my PC at home back up and running (waiting on a warranty power supply...) This is awesome. Disease is probably the best term...Trav. Sickness is another...

That's what I used to think too...and I wrote Rob @ RDZ a PM about 2 months ago asking about a tensioner...go figure, he never wrote back (on planet sand, by the way...) badassbanshee479 pointed me to these guys...and it works just fine: http://www.jlatvproducts.com/catalog/index.htm They've been around forever...click on the chain tensioner link on the left side...

Either the crank seal on the clutch side is bad or the case halves aren't sealed. No tranny oil should get into the crankcase, period....even with a good seal. It would just blow out the vent on the back of the cases... Check to make sure the vent isn't plugged...

Yeah...it's a damn addiction. 4 mil last year, gas. 10 mil this year, alky...cut and lightened everything. I was thinking about going BIG next year...but, I think I'm gonna see how much I can squeeze out of this bike...it's about 90% my dream bike to build, still have some chrome and other odds and ends to get for it!!! Kai knows his shit, he won't steer you wrong. And that motor always ran good for him....I'd say his guesstimate is right on the money...

I would say yes. There are a lot of people on here afraid to really crank the timing on cub or cheetah motors... In my experience, they love both...

JJ...if you're on this board much, you'll see me... Especially lately, been bored at work... Anytime, these are simple animals, really...best of luck, let us all know how it turns out. :biggrin:

PM me anytime, I'll do my best to answer back as quick and as best I can. My desktop PC took a dump on me...and I'm waiting on the power supply to be warrantied. I got a slow ass laptop from work I borrowed for when I'm not at my office...sucks, but...it's the bare nuts to get by...lol. I'm a big fan of less compression and more timing...especially on cub motors. Now...no two motors are the same. On my 4 mil cub last year, gas motor...I ran my plate at 8, my dyna CDI on curve 3 (the most advanced) and I had 185PSI. That bike ripped...and ran good for a gas bike. I like to run less compression because it is easier on the lower end of the bike. More timing isn't as hard on parts...and is easily adjustable, as well... 17cc domes and a lot of timing are probably not a good idea for sea level. I'd say 19 or 20cc domes and a good 8 degrees of timing on the plate for sea level riding.... But...at 4500 feet, 17 and a little more timing should be fine. Hell, bigred350X rides at like 7000 or 8000 feet...I think he machined himself 16 or 15cc domes to get some of that power back. Elevation robs power, plainly put. I'm on my second cub motor, and I"m still working on getting my 10 mil to hold together... My 4 mil on gas was a good little runner last year for what it was...I just wanted bigger, faster and lighter...and maybe a little prettier too...LOL. I've talked to a lot of people that build these motors...and I've SEEN their bikes run. I'll listen to anybody...but until I see a bike of theirs run, I"m rightfully skeptical.... I know CA has it's share of power house builders. But in MI we've got some major players, too. A&S, the now defunct Grand River Racing, RDZ, Tyson...just to name a few.

if it's a plate, there are marks on it. Cheetah and cub cylinders love timing. And since you're high up....you can make up for the power loss by compression and timing.

Are they roughly 2 inch or so in diameter? They're for the exhaust pipes.

Buy a 35 dollar Ricky Stator timing plate...you turn it to adjust it, similar to how you'd turn the distributor on an old school car motor and use a timing light... I'm very surprised you haven't done that already...timing advances work like a champ on these motors.

It's in a clymers manual...but I'll try my best to describe it. If you were to look at the choke on the left side, left carb...and stick a rod all the way through it to the right side carb.... You'll see two small outlets, facing each other. you'll need I believe a 3/16 vacuum hose, fuel line, etc. Doesn't have to be fancy...just seal. Put that in place.

It would cause what you're saying and more. Also...that idle screw adjustment only holds true for stock carbs WITH the TORS still on, which you don't have. The brass idle screws you have on the sides now, eliminating the TORS, will have to be adjusted by ear...