BigRed350x

What you see in the pics is what I have. I ran it on my 10mil Big Block Twister and didn't have any problems. The plugs look like the early years banshee harness. I also have the harness this dyna was used with, I could include it for a little extra... - Jared Edit: oh yeah, i forgot to say that I also have the little 4 position switch that allows you to select which curve you want to run. It will go with the dyna as well.

Bump

brake lines sold. dyna, flywheel & cool head are still available.

I'll knock an extra $10 off the price of the head if you buy the o-rings and domes from root.

PM sent. Sorry about the inbox. Yes, they are for +2 width A-Arms. - Jared

I've got a noss style cool head, no domes, no o-ring kit. $100 shipped Tusk braided steel front brake lines. Brand new, still in the package. These go for $75 from RMATV. I'll sell for $55 shipped. Dyna programmable ignition. Has old harness style plugs. $135 shipped. lightened flywheel $70 shipped

Remember these bikes were only made with 30-35hp from the factory. The more power and torque you push through them, the more weak spots you will find. My suggestion would be to go with billet 2nd, TZ bearings, straight-cuts, billet basket, and good high-quality bearings on the transmission. Get an outboard bearing support. If you have the money for those parts then I would do the 10mil. If you can't afford to make the engine hold up to the added power and torque of the 10mil, then go with the 4mil. That's just me though. - Jared

PM sent

The little C-shaped plate is used to hold the bearing in place, as well as holding the two case halves together. I've had banshees in the past that didn't have them and it didn't seem to really affect anything, but the way I see it is that the engineers who designed these engines put it there for a reason, so its usually a good idea to have parts like that on there, even if I don't know exactly what its supposed to do. lol - Jared

Sounds like you definitely have something out of whack in there. I would split the cases and go ahead and replace all the transmission bearings. They are all pretty cheap and worth it to replace when you go to all the trouble of splitting the cases. - Jared

No you don't need to split your cases. You only need to pull your clutch cover and remove the clutch basket and slide the shift shaft out of the passenger side of the engine enough to get the seal in, then re-insert the shift shaft and re-install the clutch basket & side-cover. If you have a deep socket you can slide the deep socket over your shift shaft and tap the seal in using the deep socket and some light tapping from a small hammer or other tool. This would save you from having to remove the whole side-cover and clutch stuff. - Jared

I ride out on the dunes with a LOT of looong wide open throttle runs with just a pingle and billet bowls. Never had a lean melt-down.

I get stuff all the time from ASR. Never had a single problem.

I would get a chariot piece from Root.

There will be almost no noticeable difference between the bored out cylinder and a stock bore cylinder. Very minimal. If you're going to buy sleeves and get the work done to re-sleeve you might as well just buy new stock cylinders and send them out to get re-ported for your 4mil. As long as you don't have a catastrophic failure your crank and rods will probably be fine. Just check for up and down play when you take the cylinders off. If you get sleeves, by the time you buy the sleeves, pay to have them pressed in, and get them port-matched to your previous porting and buy a new top end you're going to be into them as much as a new set of stock cylinders and a new port job. - Jared

You damn low elevation guys... LOL! With stock cylinders and a stock head I was only getting 94psi on each side with a new top end on the last stocker I built. 7200ft elevation.

I would get the 4mil crank, then get your cylinders ported for the 4mil when you can afford it. When you're ready, give kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call and he can hook you up with both the crank and the porting on your cylinders. Great guy to deal with and awesome turnaround time. I would call him and see what kinda deal he can make for you if you get both at the same time... Since you have to split the cases to put the 4mil crank in, I would send your cases off as well and get your cases port-matched to the cylinders. It would save you a lot of time and effort to just save up and get both done at the same time & you will see better performance gains with the cases port-matched to the cylinders. I would give kevin a call, he can hook you up with everything you'd need to make your banshee into a beast trail machine. - Jared

Do you have a 78mm bore small-block twister or a big block twister. It will change what reeds you use. The small-blocks use YZ125 reeds, the big-block uses YZ250 reeds. Do your reeds look like this? These are big-block reeds.

The 2into1 intakes are not much good on any banshee, let alone a 4mil. You would definitely be better off going with dual carbs. For your setup I would try and score a set of keihin 33PWKs or maybe some 28's. Dual carbs are not that hard to do. Give kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call and he can hook you up with whatever carbs & intakes you decide to go with. -jared

Sounds like your shift shaft is out of adjustment or just worn out. Time to pull the side-cover off and check things out. Could be an easy/cheap fix if you do it now, or it could get pretty expensive if not fixed.

Not sure about the 20's at that low of an elevation. I ride at 7200ft, so all I can really tell you is what I've heard from others. I would try and score a set of 21cc domes. The 20's will probably work, but put you right at the limit of running pump gas. Especially if you're running any timing. If I remember right, the 22cc domes you're talking about without the race for the o-ring are probably big bore domes, meant for 68mm or bigger cylinders. Usually the big-bore domes are missing the o-ring race, and the o-ring is just stretched a little bit and fits around the outer lip of the dome. - Jared

Keihin 33 PWK or Mikuni 32mm TM Flatslide. Give kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call when you're ready to order. He will hook you up. - Jared

I would skip the big-bore idea and just get your stock cylinders ported. Send them off to Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and just go over your riding style and what you're hoping to get out of it and he will set you up with an awesome port job. You won't regret it at all. To take full advantage of the porting you need to do the basic bolt-on mods. Cool head, reeds, timing, whatever pipes kevin recommends for the porting you decide to go with... But best bang for the buck is going to be the porting. I would definitely give kevin a call. His number is in my signature. - Jared

If you are going to be dune riding/racing I would skip the cub cylinder. Go with a serval or a twister cylinder. I'm partial to the twister stuff myself, but to each their own... Either way, I would go with the 10mil. Spend the money and get a good chassis setup. It will make a world of difference on the dunes & whoops. Whatever you decide to go with, I would send your cylinders off to Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and get them ported. Or just buy them direct from him and have him port them before he sends them out.

Skip the ebay. Give Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call and he can hook you up with a good cool head and can custom cut you a set of domes specific for your application. Give him a call and he will go over a few questions with you and hook you up. You won't be disappointed. He has the fastest turnaround time out there. He's done a few sets of cylinders for me now and I have nothing but good things to say. - Jared