BigRed350x

United States... yes. Earth... no.

Simple answer... Call Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and he will go over what type of riding you do and will get you hooked up with the right port job for what you're doing with it.

On the right is a stock Vforce reed, on the left is one with a cascade stuffer.

Sounds like maybe TORS system. Why did you put penetrating oil in the cylinders? Whats your jetting? Checked reeds for cracks? Got good plugs? Right wires on the right contacts on the coil? Spark plug caps good? Pickup coil gap set right? There a LOT to check out if it hasn't been run in a long time. If I were given an engine that I knew had been sitting for that amount of time, I would probably do a complete tear-down and replace all the seals and gaskets.

Hone it and run it. Custom.

The number of paddles comes from how much traction you want, how much power you make & how long your swingarm is. The longer the swingarm, the more you loose traction & your wheels tend to spin. So, the longer the swingarm, the more paddles. The more power you make, the easier it will be for your engine to break the rear end loose and spin the tires, so you add paddles with power. It also depends on what surface you're riding on. Soft fluffy sand = more paddles, hard wet sand = fewer paddles. Then you have the thickness of the paddles and the buff of the carcass of the tire to play with. The more buff's they take off the carcass the lighter the tire is. The more buffs the tire has, the easier it will be to puncture. We ride on dunes that have a lot of haggard sandstone and rocks & roots & shit, so I always go with a standard buff tire. They are heavier, but hold up to our dunes so that's what I get. I'd rip through super-light triple buffs in one ride at KP. The thicker paddles tend to bend over under power a lot less. The lighter the paddle the easier it will be to spin... For every 2" of swingarm over stock I like to add a paddle. If you make over 65-70 hp go with the extremes, or run more hauler paddles. On my stock stroke dune bike I have a +8 swingarm (overkill, I know) and I'm going to buy a set of 22x11x8 10paddle haulers for it. If the swingarm were shorter I would go with a 21x12x8 9paddle hauler. The over-all height of the tire will also change things. The taller tires with a smaller rim (22" with 8" rim or 21" with 8" rim) will tend to balloon out and you will gain a couple inches in rollout once your wheel-speed is up. Similar to what the tires on the top fuel drag cars do when they launch, just not quite as extreme. LOL The bigger the rim, the stiffer the sidewall will act and the less the tire will try and grow at high speeds. The smaller rims will also allow the sidewall of the tire to give a little bit when you turn, and will let the sidewall flex a little more on impact and give you a softer feeling ride. There's a lot of thought that needs to go into the correct tire selection. For your setup I would go with a 21x12x8 8 or 9 paddle hauler. 8 or 9 paddles depending on how much traction you want. If you like to do wheelies then go with 9's. If you prefer wheel-spin then go with the 8's.

Hey man! Good to hear! Shoot me a PM & tell me how the trip was...

I'd like to go, but just got a house and a big shop, so probably won't be able to afford to go this year. I'm also tearing off all the front suspension and steering on the short sand car and re-doing it this year. The guy I got the short sand car from didn't take care of it at all and the whole front end is trashed. Needs heims, a-arms, steering box, spindles, bearings... pretty much everything on the front end. I probably won't have my twister back together until later this summer. Hopefully next year...

If the old frame isn't going to be used in the future, chop the whole shock mount/light bracket thing off, clean it up and just weld it onto the other frame.

If you are that concerned with it being even by sight, then run a lockup with the stock springs.

Billet basket, shift star mod, shift-pro shift segment with roller bearing, side-cut gears, vforce reeds, cool head w/ better domes, porting, bigger carbs, better pipes, higher output coil, light-weight parts, swingarm, A-arms, shocks, extended steering stem, better levers, better bars... There's a LOT more you can do besides what you have in your signature.

Its an old cascade unit from a few years ago.

I agree. +6 would be fun on that bike. I'd go with a 22" 10 or 11 paddle extreme.

I put a whole bottom end together really late one night and got up the next morning and found the shift forks sitting on my bench. Sad Day.

Just get on egay and buy a new one. Don't risk making the problem worse by gluing the magnets back on.

gotcha, I read your post wrong.

clutch cable stretched? You absolutely sure you have the clutch assembly adjusted correctly? Arrows on the case and actuator arm line up? Have the slack taken out of the cable up at the lever? The clutch doesn't move a whole lot to begin with.

It will still fit in your truck. the OOF's make like 3-4 more hp than the in-frames. The db levels would be the next big difference. OOF's are obviously louder unless you went with the silenced ones. The OOF's don't like to be duned very much. They tend to move around a little more and put more stress on their mounts. I wouldn't dune OOF pipes. If you want to dune ride go with the IF's. You said you are going to drag only, so I'd go with the un-silenced out of frames. If you order them through matt, have him weld on the flanges so you could bolt up some silencers later if you wanted to, or if you travel somewhere that has sound restrictions.

It would be tough to tell without splitting the cases. Hope you have some skinny fingers or some good eyes. lol

They advertise better throttle response and HP gain. The vforce reed cage implements 4 reeds instead of 2 like the stock cage. the benefit is that the vforce reeds only have to open half as far to flow the same as the stock reeds, hence the better throttle response. There are mixed opinions on which Vforce models are the best. It depends on what your setup is and what you do with it. Personally, I prefer the Vforce3's with the cascade stuffers. I never liked the cheaper feel of the original vforce and vforce2's and the screws that were on the 2's. That's just me though.

That's why god invented the dremel. ROFL Just haggard up your own logo. Custom.

The pistons will rock back and forth in the cylinders and you run the risk of a skirt breaking off and causing a lot more damage.

Yes, it is. the the guy I was quoting said they are 185 a piston. i did a quick google search and he was way high. Sorry to joee2002 for jacking his thread. I see he started a new thread. Sorry man.

I just take a grinder and hack off the slack, then weld whats left of the chain back together.

If you have keyed steel plates and don't rotate them, you will get your basket out of balance and murder your bronze bushing pretty quick. I did that on one of the first clutch kits I ever put in. Killed my clutch basket bushing in a few months of riding. acroadam, if your steel plates are perfectly round on the outer circumference, then you are fine, just put them in and don't worry about getting them lined up correctly. You only need to worry about rotating each steel plate if the outer circumference of the steels have the little rounded key/indicator on them.