BigRed350x

Hey man... i think someone forgot to pay the bills over on dunereview. I used to be on there all the time. I only have phone numbers for a few folks off DR and haven't seen any of them anywhere else since it went down.

21x12x8 8paddle haulers or 9paddle haulers would be a good choice.

Actually neither one will save your cases. I've jacked cases with both plastic and billet case savers. Chain breaks, wraps around the sprocket and pushes the case save up into the case and the case cracks. They all do it. I've got pics to prove it. I'm on my work computer, but when i get home if I remember I will post pics of both types breaking the cases. - Jared

Good post Snop. Good info there. Its what I expected way back in one of the first serval threads.

I am clearly not qualified for that sort of modification then.

crank it till it strips. Then back off a quarter turn.

If your bronze bushing inside the clutch basket is starting to get worn out, it will make a knocking/growling noise. I mistook this noise for a bad crank bearing one time. I wouldn't think the basket would make a knock/growl, but it did... I think these things make all kinds of odd-ball noises without any problems. I've got a buddy who's banshee makes some pretty nasty sounding noises and has gone through 2 total tear-down rebuilds and still makes the same noise. He's been beating the hell out of it for a few years now and the noise is still there and hasn't blown up yet.

Google says you're wrong. lol $122 http://www.powersportparts.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=423P4

I wouldn't chop my piston up like that.

Lame. At least the test is free.

Why weaken your piston when you could just raise the roof of the exhaust port?

Kevin at Herr Jugs! You can't go wrong! Great guy, awesome work, fastest turnaround time. - Jared

Your welcome!

Make sure you don't sand the case mating surfaces. lol I saw a guy take a rotary abrasion wheel to his cases once. That wasn't pretty. I agree with everyone else, just take some sandpaper and clean up the trench below the crank. Don't go all crazy, just enough to get it cleaned up.

Two options... you could use a dremel with a small sanding drum and clean up the high spot enough to clear the cases and probably wouldn't throw anything off enough to matter. ...you could send the crank back and have your builder fix the issue for you. On the cranks I've welded I did it without any filler at all. If you used extra filler it could build up like you see in the pics. Buildup doesn't necessarily mean it was MIG welded. You can get buildup with TIG as well.

CHEETAH! Capable of bigger bores, it has bigger intakes, better head design, powervalve'd exhaust...

The top end you ordered isn't a bad top end for dune riding. You could go ahead with the order and just get some new domes cut for it and you will be fine. Give Kevin at Herr Jugs a call & get a good set of domes cut for the cheetah cylinders and go with it. Won't cost you much more to have a correct set of domes cut. Give kevin a call. - Jared

If your rings catch, just take them off and run straight-pistons w/ no rings. LOL

It holds the shift star in place on the drum. Sounds like time to pull your side cover and get the clutch off & check out your shift linkage and star. Hope that helps.

Or maybe both! ha! Its been closed to riding for the last two years. Just due to the height of the lake. If it ever dries up a little they open some more of the trails up. The last time I stopped by to check things out all the trails leading to the big hill were under water. You could only get to it from the north west. - Jared

Yep! I took a small drywall screw and screwed it into the seal, then used the screw like a handle to pry and pull the seal out of the bearing. Its an easy 5min job. If you have the rear end apart, do it! Drill/tap for the zerk with it all torn apart so you can blow any metal shavings out of the carrier.

Ditch the cub and get a set of serval cylinders, small-block twister cylinders, or a cheetah. Any of those would be a hell of a lot better for a dune bike than cubs. If you have the budget go with the 10mil. Lots of low-end torque makes for a fun dune machine. Get a good solid crank. Trued and welded, TZ bearings, straight-cuts, billet basket, lockup, etc.

Well its a good thing I'm not a pro and don't do porting. lol

Castor 927 mixed @ 32:1 but i run methanol, so its a little different for me. Castor 927 produces a lot of black goop through the entire exhaust system and in your cylinders. It smells good, but is pretty messy. You have to keep up on your end-of-ride cleaning or it will get nasty pretty quick. Its great with the methanol though. I can't stand the fruity smell of the klotz supertechniplate. I hate that shit.

Actually the top end is already put together and the engine is back in the frame. I didn't do a walk-through on the top end. Its pretty time-consuming to stop and take pics of every step and to type it all up. Maybe I'll do one on the next top end I do. (I'll be putting together a 4mil small-block twister later this summer).