BigRed350x

I used to buy them from that guy all the time until I figured out who the main manufacturer was and I get them through them now even cheaper. They are real. He is a good seller.

I ran my 10mil cub at 9 degrees and it ran great. But I'm at 7200ft...

There are some guys on here who make some custom ones I've seen. Run down to your local machine shop and ask them to make you a set with some hi-grade aluminum or chromoly or titanium. They will be pricy, but shouldn't break.

For hillclimbs go with the powervalve cheetah if you can afford it. If you want to do it the quick and easy way go with a 10mil cub 68mm bore.

Dont run the T sideways like that. You will regret it. Been there done that mistake when I first went to bigger carbs. It doesn't hurt to run extra fuel line and loop it around to avoid kinks. Just make sure you get any air bubbles out when you turn the gas on. I would suggest a pingel for sure. You will want one down the road anyway, so might as well get it now and save yourself some headache. I'd just run extra fuel line and put the T in normally behind the carb tops and run some longer fuel lines back up and around the front of the carbs and down into the intakes if you don't want to go the pingel route. - Jared edit: oh yeah, to avoid what booker is talking about with the line flopping around and getting melted on your pipes, just use some small zip-ties where need-be.

I've got a set of his cylinders on my black bike right now. I would put them up against any other dune port out there. Gorr is an amazing port expert.

Shot you some PM's back...

Its an AC/DC stick welder. Works fine. Good condition. Just don't use it any more and have a bunch of welders sitting around. Make offers. Willing to trade for random banshee crap. Need a cool head and some small bore OOF pipes, +6 to +8 swingarm, etc. - j oh yeah... heres a link to the spec sheet for the welder I have. http://www.millerwelds.com/products/stick/thunderbolt_xl/

I've read it has a shelf life anywhere from 3 months to a year. Depends on where you keep it and how humid it is. Having gone through kansas not too long ago, the humidity in your area would scare me leaving meth sit for that long. We burn 55gal in a good couple days at the dunes. Sounds like you need to ride more! :biggrin: -j

I understand the being short for cash and all... but if you can't afford a gasket kit when you work on stuff, maybe a banshee isn't the best bike for you. LOL j/k Every now and they you can score bulk gasket kits on ebay for cheap. I'd probably ask on HQ for a gasket before I would use a cereal box though. Jump on HQ in the wanted section and ask if someone can toss you a couple gaskets. I have quite a few stacks of gaskets laying around sometimes that I wouldn't have a problem just giving away if someone was strapped for cash and needed help. -jared

Sand toys unlimited, jims sand toys, rockymountainatv.

Yes, I have removed them. But I was in a machine shop and we just used our small hydraulic press and pushed them out. I've never done it besides that time. I would think you could do it at home if you hold the engine solid on something and tap them out with s rubber mallet and some sort of tool to push on them. I don't know though, never done it at home.

I tend to agree with snop on the carb size issue. A lot of people over carb their bikes. If you were buying new carbs I would go with 33's for the setup you have right now. BUT you already have one 35mm carb, so it would be stupid to buy two more when you only need 1. I would buy one 35mm and get bansh-eman's intakes. He is a great guy and very nice to deal with. I wouldn't have any problem doing business with him.

PM'd you back. - Jared

Just crank them down until you hear a snap and they get real easy to turn... that's too far. Go back a 1/4 turn. j/k don't do that.

I'd hate to see what sorts of stresses a crank goes through with mismatched bores.

DID 520 xring chain with primary drive steel front and rear on my two dune bikes. I run a 530 chain with sidewinder sprockets on the 10mil. I replace chains when they start to get sticky links, or too much slack after all your adjustment is gone. A case saver is cheap insurance. The DID X-ring chains have been good to me so far. I clean them and re-oil them every time I ride. Just like anything... the life of the part depends on how well you take care of it. Make sure you replace your sprockets and chain at the same time. Don't run an old sprocket with a new chain.

Do you have the rubber isolators on opposite sides, front and rear? The stock engine mounts are pretty good at holding everything where it needs to be, as long as something else isn't out of whack. What do you have done to your bike? Most aftermarket chassis have solid lower mounts, don't see why its not worth a try. I'd try new stock parts before welding on your frame and doing anything too crazy. Get new isolators, new bushings, etc and see how it goes. -jared

Are you putting a little bit of grease on the inside of the seal? What are you using to seal between your cases? Does your primary drive gear have any weird grooves in it or anything that would not let it seal correctly? Try putting some hi-temp gas/oil resistant silicone around the square key on your primary drive gear before you install it. I've had leaks around there before. What psi are you presurizing your bottom end to when you test it and how long are you leaving it pressurized?

115mm rods? What bearings? Looks like stock bearings, or am I mistaken?

I have a set of 39mm keihin pump style carbs with power jets. Currently set up on gas. I used them on my old 10mil cub. Worked great. I have different carbs for my 10mil cheetah now and need some smaller carbs for one of my other bikes. Looking for 35mm PWK's. The 39's come with a mikuni fuel pump.

If it has a YPVS head it might be an RZ350 conversion. So your cylinders have a large round cover on the sides up near the exhaust? Sounds like you got a pretty good deal. T5's are a good pipe. With your head shaved you will have higher compression. I would definitely do a couple things before you ride it too much... check your jetting. Do some reading on here in the sticky threads and you can find how to read your plugs. Also do a compression test and see where you're at to be sure you don't need to run some kind of mix with race gas to prevent detonation. 32:1 is a good ratio to run your oil at. It depends on what oil you use. If its a good synthetic oil 40:1 to 50:1 is ok, if its a cheap crapo oil then you will want more. Sometimes they can be a pain to start. Try just using the choke without holding it WOT and see if its any easier. We usually just choke it and just barely touch the throttle. It could also be a jetting issue thats making it hard to start. Its hard to tell. There are a million things that will make these things hard to start. Its kinda the nature of the beast. Once you get it used to it and figure it out you will love it. Take good care of it, change your engine oil regularly, use good gas with good oil, grease your suspension parts regularly, keep your chain tensioned... keep it clean and it will thank yourself for it when you have to work on it. Don't get all upset if it stops running one day, just jump on here and tell us what the symptoms are and we can all help you get it running again. They are cheap to rebuild, and the aftermarket for these bikes is huge. Welcome to the HQ. -Jared

Sent ya some pics...

Timing plays an important part in when to true/weld your crank as well. A lot of timing and compression will be trying to force your crank apart every time it fires. I'd do it on any crank if you have it out already and its in good shape. All my bikes have trued and welded cranks, even the stock stroke which only has 90lbs compression at this altitude with the stock head. LOL

Shot another pm back atcha.