BigRed350x

Bump for a good guy. PM'd ya.

Invest in a set of calipers for the cylinders. You can provide basic info like bore size, and port heights with a basic set of calipers and would save yourself a little trouble there. Even a cheap-o set of calipers from a local hardware store will do. Your comment about big bore sleeves vs stock sleeves would be easily resolved with a $12 part from ace hardware.

Just go to one of the big online stores like www.cascadeinnovations.net or www.rockymountainatv.com You can actually order stuff from their web sites, and they will respond to your emails when you need something in a hurry. I was looking for some parts I needed in a hurry a while back and called just about everyone I was interested in doing business with. Every time I called FAST it was busy so I gave up on that. Sent two emails, neither of which has been responded to, even now, about a month later... still no response. I won't even bother trying to do business with FAST any more.

a CNC mill will do wonders on those heads with that annoying writing on them too.

Wyoming does have its boring areas for sure. Bad weather... you guys down there don't even know what bad weather is. Soon as we get those stickers off causing all that wind resistance it might actually run good.

gregrob and I went from the colorado border all the way across the state to Kansas City. It does get bette (view) as you go east, but holy crap your guys' heat and humidity is just retarded. I get out and ride at our dunes when its over 100 degrees and I'm perfectly fine. It was like 80 and humid as hell and I sweat to god I was going to keel over and die. I probably lost 10lbs in sweat. I'm not used to that! The old people drivers didn't make it much more desireable to be there. I had my 9mm in my hand a couple times wanting to remove the problem. haha! j/k I did have it with me though and it was tough to overlook the temptation to use it. I agree with you, there is nothing to listen to here in WY. XM is definitely a necessity. (sp?) But man, at least anywhere you go in wyoming you will see mountains and trees and some kind of change of scenery every couple hours. Even on the west side of the state. The western side of KS I saw.... nothing. For 6 hours I saw nothing. A windmill was the highlight of the trip. Then just before you get to Kansas City you see some hills and a lot of stagnant nasty water and tree cover so dense you can't see through it. Granted, every state has its ups and downs. I will just say that I was more than overjoyed to be back to colorado and wyoming, where when I open my window at 75mph the air coming in is cool. I didn't enjoy feeling like I needed a shower every hour while I was in KS.

Kansas is officially the biggest suck-hole state I have ever driven across. I would highly recommend to anyone who is thinking of driving through there to find an alternate route. What a hot, miserable, impolite state. The people down there can't drive, and the heat / humidity was ridiculous. I really do not know why anyone in their right mind would live there. gregrob did get a nice bike though. Just have to remove some stickers from it and it will be a nice bike. Kansas sucks major horse wang. That's official.

Trade you a double cheeseburger from McDonalds with a bite taken out of it. :biggrin:

weak sauce. Seminoe is lame. If you want good hillclimbs go to sand mountain.

ill be out there memorial day weekend fool. bring your bike and lets go ride.

Don't lie. :biggrin:

Its nice that you want a big bad dune/drag banshee but what is your realistic budget?

Hit me up with a picture of that bad boy. Need a chassis for one of my 10mil's.

Alright, I need a set of stock a-arms for my stock stroke play bike before memorial day weekend. I have paypal payment ready for anyone who has a reasonable set of a-arms. I don't care about surface rust or bad paint since I will sand-blast and re-paint them when I get them, but please no dented all to hell stockers. Send me some pics and a price and if they look decent I will take them. Don't need tie rods, already ordered a new set. I do need the bushings and dust boots and good ball joints. Thanks! - Jared

Yeah, that's definitely not from sand getting into your cylinders. Detonation creates thousands of pounds of pressure for a fraction of a second on every stroke and it starts to put little micro dents in the domes and eventually they grow into those little dings and worm looking shapes from the heat and pressure it creates every time it detonates. Go hit up planetsand and read up a little bit on some of their threads about detonation and they explain it in a lot more detail. You and I have seen what sand does to your engine from that time i blasted your bike with sand so hard it went through your pods. (That uhh... my bad.) It would kill your rings and you'd lose compression and trash your bearings long before the sand would have enough time to bash those little dings into your domes. - Jared

Jon... those nasty pits in the domes are from detonation. Whats your timing at? I know we checked your compression when we put it together, but you might check it again after you re-build it this time, and might consider either backing your timing down or mixing with some racegas from that place down the street from you.... I wouldn't try and repair those domes. I know you don't want to hear that and will probably do it anyway, because your a sasquatch. But if you just try and sand them down and re-run them you will have some nasty hot spots that form inside the cylinder and will cause irregular burning in the cylinder and although you probably wont feel it, you will have some power loss as a result. It will also weaken your domes, which can cause a problem like you saw mine have this past weekend. haha! If you want to do it the easy, correct way, run down to PRS Machine there in rock springs, down past home-depot and ask Larry (big guy in front office) if you can use his little tiny blue electric lathe and just clamp your dome in there and hold some of his rough emory cloth on it, spinning like 15,000k rpm and it will smooth it out evenly around the dome. Tell him Jared sent you there and he will probably just let you do it yourself, or at least help you out with it. Hit him up around 5:30 and he will probably just let you do it yourself. Ask for Dustin or Jon to help you and they will know what I'm talking about, they saw me do it a couple times. But I would just order new domes and keep those as a spare in your growing parts bucket.... haha - Jared

Wondering if there is any interest in a set of cases I have laying around. They are in perfect condition, no cracks, no stripped threads anywhere... Sand-Blasted and clean. I'm away on a business trip so I can't get any pics until I'm back next week some time. PM me some offers if anyone is interested in them. -j

If you are in the dunes, suspension is your friend. Get some suspension first and foremost, then build your engine up. With a nice suspension you can do a lot more with less power. I'd go wtih a set of +2+1 a-arms with heim joints (ball joints suck wang) nice shocks (dune edition elkas or some triple rate works, etc) +4 rear end aftermarket rear shock or rebuilt/revalved rear wider axle +4 stroke in the engine porting 33 or 35mm carbs and intakes vforce 3 reeds with the bigger stuffers cool head good clutch side-cut your gears in the transmission shift star mod & roller bearing CPI pipes or T5's that should kill your budget quite nicely.

I got dibs on wiring harness (need everything but stator) and front brake lines.... if you part it out.

You will never get what you are asking for that. You can pick up a 10mil for that price. You will have better luck if you drop the price... more than a little bit. bump and good luck with the sale.

You are either jetted really rich or your gas:oil ratio is retardedly rich if its spitting goo. Pull your plugs and see if they are black or if they are a nice chocolate color. Also post your mods and jetting in the jetting forum and get some help getting dialed in.

Id be willing to bet your idler gear bushing is shot, and has eaten your c-clip and washers that align the idler gear have either been eaten up by your clutch gear or they are on their way out along with the bushing. I've never seen a kicker gear go bad, but the idler gears go out a lot. You will have to pull your clutch cover off and remove the whole clutch to get to the idler gear. IF your idler gear bushing is gone then when your kicker gear slides out to engage its just going to push your idler gear sideways or kick it out at an angle. I've also seen cases crack where the kicker module slides into the case and throws all the alignment out of whack. This can be fixed with some welding and a machine shop though. Either way, your probably looking at popping off your clutch cover and checking everything. Get a clymer manual and it will help you out a lot. - Jared

Setup looks pretty good man! I would triangulate from the sides to help distribute the load on your rail system. Generally not good to have a load hanging straight down like that. Other than that, looks pretty good for a home-made setup. Keep up the good work! - Jared

I had a cable one time that was retarded stiff and we didn't have a spare handy so we took one of those small grease needles and stuck it down in the cable tube and pumped grease down in there until it came out the bottom of the cable. Cleaned up and worked it a couple times and it was smooth as ever. We ran it like that for almost 3 months after that without doing anything else.

Yes, the sleeve should slide across the bolt. Just like on your cars front brakes. Get a new sleeve and bolt and when you asseble it put a coating of grease on the bolt before you slide it through the sleeve.