BigRed350x

I'd look for a play port or a dune port. You will see more power from a dune port. Especially with your pipes and carb combo you already have. Would make a very fun engine to ride. I agree with the other guys though, make sure you find a set of cylinders that are stock. 64mm bore and no porting. I've seen quite a few sets on ebay selling for like $250 to $300. The port job will cost you around $250 to $300 as well. What I'd do is bid on a set of cylinders on ebay, and pay for them through paypal, but have them shipped to whoever you're going to do your porting. (Contact your builder first about doing this and make sure its ok) and have them do their porting for you, then have them send them to you internationally. Just add in the price of shipping the cylinders and new top end to you when you pay them for the porting and have them ship them. - Jared

Honestly, I'm not a big fan of the engine ice stuff. Too expensive for what you get out of it IMO. Plus if you have a leak or do end up over-heating and blow it out your overflow, then you've dumped a chunk of change all over the ground. I've always just run normal 50/50 in all my bikes and have never had a problem with it. I'd start off with just the 50/50, since its already in your system and see how it goes for you. Don't overlook your jetting just because we found your coolant problem. I'd still double check your jetting, and maybe go 1 size bigger on your main jet just for safety's sake. I've always run mine a little on the rich side and be happy that it will run a little big longer. - Jared

How hot you talking? My buddy and I ride in our dunes when its up around 110 to 120 degrees and he still has a gas engine and we've ridden for hours on end and he's never once had an overheating issue with his. I dont' worry about mine running on methanol keeps it plenty cool.

When the cubs first came out we did a little experimenting with them, more for fun than anything else. We took a 4mil casting and decked it and ran off-set domes. We ran it with 33's and T5's and it was an amazing dune setup. It hit like a cub, but it hit at the lower-midrange instead of all up on top. It was a lot of fun to ride around on. We built it up to around 180lbs compression and 7 degrees advanced on timing and it got even more fun to ride. I sold it to a guy in utah who still has it set up the same and rides at sand mountain and he says he loves it.

A guy up here in our area tried to run it and it wasn't all that impressive. Seemed like a lot of work for not much gain. If you're going to go through the trouble of setting up to use it, just use methanol or alcohol. Methanol is my choice hands down. Its also the reason I have a second tank on my bike. lol!

Looks like a pile of money that when it comes down to it doesn't really perform any better than packages that cost half as much.

Sorry snop, wasn't trying to start any crap. Was just looking for clarification of some of your findings and why you said they weren't any good on an engine over 9k rpm. Just saying that maybe on some different setups they perform better. Dont get your panties in a bunch.

LOL, none taken man. I still do it. Frames, plastics... if I plan on riding in dirt its the way to go. I did my latest frame in it. :biggrin: I used to do PC on my frames, but it chips off WAY too easy, and the dune I ride have rocks and stuff in the sand every now and then and the PC gets chipped all to hell and looks like crap. I'd say go for it. - Jared

That's your problem! Try and mix it 50/50 with some water and see what happens! The green shit (ethelyne glycol) is only supposed to be to prevent freezing, slight lubrication properties, and helps with the cooling, but only when mixed with distilled water! It doesn't cool worth a damn when put in your cooling system alone. Try and mix 50/50 with distilled water and coolant or buy a jug of the pre-mixed stuff from your auto-parts store. Give that a shot and see what happens. - Jared

lol

So my air is a little thin... :geek: That just means we build em bigger and more powerful to keep up. You guys should bring your stuff up here and see how it runs. :woot:

You also missed what you wrote in your very first post in this thread. Whats your point?

Actually, in your very first post, the one that started this thread, you said vforce reeds were a joke. You wrote it and I was quoting you directly dude. Here's that quote once again for you. "V-force reeds on a 9k rpm motor are a joke." Go back and re-read YOUR thread. lol

I will race ya. I'll bring some carbs and random parts for you easter weekend to try out. - Jared

With your engine running at idle, take a can of carb cleaner and start to spray around all your gasket and sealing surfaces one by one and listen for your engine to bog down. Also, on the stator side, remove your cover and spray around your crank seal. Head, plugs, base gaskets, reeds, intakes, around your carbs, all the way back to your filters. Do you know how to do a proper plug chop? Check your jetting via plug chop technique at full throttle, 3/4 throttle and one at half throttle since that's where the majority of banshee riders spend their time and more than likely where your problem is. You could try going up a main jet size and go for a ride and see if you still experience the same problem. You might be right on the very edge of perfect jetting, but still on the lean side. If you go up a size or two it would put you a little more rich and might be a POSSIBLE solution. Maybe close up your air screws a quarter of a turn and see what it does. - Jared edit: forgot to add... only do 1 jetting change at a time and ride it and see if the problem persists. I'd do the main jet up a size or two first. Then richen up your needle a clip position and see how it does, then the air screw last. See if any of that helps the overheating problem. Once you have totally eliminated jetting as a cause, then move on to better cooling options. Oh yeah, what coolant are you currently running? 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water right? If you are running pure water or pure coolant it could cause overheating issues. - Jared

I'd have to agree. K&N pods are the only thing I run on all of my bikes. Turbulence. What a bunch of idiots.

You talking about that one ebay or planetsand?

How about... 1. CHECK YOUR JETTING!!!! A properly jetted bike will run all day long on whatever you want to do with it and never overheat. When I run mine on gas I can romp on it as hard as I want all day long, up and down any of the biggest dunes I ride without any worries. 2. Check your impeller for damage, and check the plastic gear for damange 3. flush your cooling system if everything checks out on with the impeller and gear 4. go back to riding once you fix your jetting problem! 5. if you want upgrades, which it seems you are hell-bent on getting, then do the impeller upgrade, then engine ice, then rad last. The stock radiator is more than capable of handling a properly jetted bike.

You dont seem to be listening! Its not a cooling problem, its your jetting!! A properly jetted bike will run all day long as hard as you want to run it in temps well over 100. I know I've had more than a few gas bikes and ride in temps over 100 all summer long. CHECK YOUR JETTING! Correct your jetting problem, them worry about getting better cooling components.

Gotcha. I replied to that above. If he is going to post dyno results and make statements that vforce reeds are a joke, then he needs to provide thorough testing to provide adaquate evidence supporting that claim. Generalizing a product for members who might be considering the vforce reeds as a mod would be misled by his statements.

your saying that stock cages will perform as well or better than vofrce is a generalized statement that only applies to your setup and your dyno testing. I was simply offering another POV for this thread. You also stated that you were using the stock round stuffers that come with the vforce reeds. If you're going to say the stockers are the same or better than the vforce 3's, why not try the square stuffers or some different reed combos on the stock cages and give a more broad comparison before saying the vforce reeds are a joke. Your making the claim that "V-force reeds on a 9k rpm motor are a joke." is misleading to other members who might be looking for performance upgrades. I run the Vforce3 reeds on a 9k engine and it runs better with the vforce3's than the stock cages with dual stage carbon fiber reeds. I am just letting people know that every bike is different and responds differently to different mods. Just because your setup responded better ON A DYNO to stock caged reeds DOES NOT mean that vforce reeds are a "joke" on a 9k rpm engine. Simply on your setup they are. I was trying to clarify and provide a second POV to other members who might be looking at Vforce reeds as a performance upgrade who would have been misled by your post. Also keep in mind that this is a dyno, not out riding, where you will actually feel the differences. A dyno is a good tuning tool for the setup you have, but doesn't really help provide any real-life comparison information for people who are looking at performance upgrades since every bike will respond differently to different mods. Just because your bike didnt like them doesn't mean someone elses wont. I understand you were just providing your findings for other members, I just didn't want them to be misled by your generalized statements, that might not really apply to everyone. Just clarifying, not trying to start any shit.

I didn't say carbon tech reeds. I said dual stage carbon fiber reeds.

Yep, don't run the spacers just to "look cool" or for "performance" There is 0 performance gain from spacers, and its only going to give you a bigger chance of a gasket leak having spacers in there when you dont need them. ONLY reason to have them is if you need more space for some big carbs.

Well if you've pounded on it trying to force it out you might have a hard time doing it the correct way now. The gold colored ring on top of the bearing spins out towards your handlebars. You have to remove the upper seal to get to it. Once you remove the upper seal, spin the gold retainer ring out, then flip your frame over and pound the bearing out from the bottom towards the top with a socket or something. But you will have to remove the lower seal to get to it. Look at your clymers, it tells you how.

Id try a 10 paddle. It will come off the line harder and you should have enough power the extra paddle shouldn't drag too much up on top.