BigRed350x

How about some better pics?

Whats your jetting? Easy way to check for air leaks is start it and with the engine at idle spray carb cleaner around all your gasket surfaces. If it bogs when you spray anywhere, check that gasket... check your jetting and check for air leaks, then I would do the leakdown test. - Jared

walmart will do atv rims for like $7 a pop. mount/dismount. I think the last set I had mounted was $15 to dismount, and remount the new ones and dispose of the old tires. watch out if you have the fancy thin douglas rims or anything, they might ding them up. The set I was talking about above were stock rims and they did them just fine. - Jared

Dont sell it. You will be pissed when a good riding weekend comes around. I can't count how many times I've done that. Sold something and the next beautiful weekend that came around I was kicking myself in the ass for selling something I could go out and play on. Did that with my 10mil cub. Sold it and a month after that I was racing some buddies and kicking myself for selling it. So I built a 10mil cheetah. rofl!

Another vote for Vforce. I've got a set in an engine that have been in there for almost 3 years now and they still look brand new and still close tight against the cage all the way around in both cages. I also have a set of dual stage carbon fiber reeds and the vorce3's have more seat of the pants performance than the dual stage, stock cage setup. - jared

Jump over to planetsand and do some reading up over there. Lots of helpful information about your squish, dome size, compression, and detonation information. Above all, your engine builder should have checked and corrected/suggested what to do before you ever ran it. If you built it yourself, you should have checked your compression before ever riding it. The spacer plate is not generally the best way to do a 4mil. There is more of a chance of a leak with the spacer plate. Call some of the big-name builders around the country and they can set you up with some good porting. A&S, K&T, Nate McCoy, Dave Moore, Louie at Twister, LC Performance, Packard. There's also some of the smaller guys here on the site who can help you out. FAST, HerrJugs, Flotek. Use the search button and do some research on 4mil porting, and go read up on planetsand in some of their 2-stroke technical posts.

We take our tires and leave them out on the asphalt in the summer for a couple hours before putting the air in them. They stretch easy that way. Then bring them inside the garage and let them cool, deflate them after a couple hours and repeat the next day. Works good.

Its the distance the tire will cover in one revolution. Put a mark on your tire and the first time it touches the ground put a mark, then roll the tire to the next time that same point touches and measure the distance between the two points. That's your roll-out. So if you have a 72" R.O. you will cover 72" horizontal distance in one revolution of the tire. You can also measure it by taking a flexible tape measure and going around your tire, like you were measuring your waist size. Make sense?

Actually he's a very good rider. Been riding the dunes and drag racing for over 22 years. His bike is very well tuned, and we both use EGT's and water temp sensors. His porting is what we believe to be the problem. Kim fucked it up somehow and refuses to do anything to help him out. Told him it was his problem. I haven't talked to him in a while, but I think he's selling/sold it and going with a cheetah or cub setup, or going with a 4-stroke. That setup he got from kim is a joke, just like kims customer service.

you're going to have to pull your cover. Get that clymer and go to town. Sounds like you could have a couple issues. Your inner and outer hubs are probably worn from the clutch action. You can file/sand them back down a couple times, but after doing it twice I usually replace them with a billet basket. Your other problem sounds like it might be the shift star mechanism. You will see what were talking about when you pull the cover. To get tot he shifting mechanism you will need to remove the entire clutch basket setup. inner and outer hubs. Sounds scary but its easy.

Just switch over to alcohol or methanol and don't worry about the compression. More power, runs cooler, and your compression wouldn't be an issue. I would definitely pull the head and check for detonation. You will see very small pitting starting out at the edges of the piston and in your domes. Detonation is an evil foe. It creates thousands of pounds of pressure inside your cylinders and will trash a crank in short time. You might be lucky and have caught it early enough to fore go any serious damage. If there's a lot of evidence of detonation I would check your crank for excessive play and check the welds on the pins for any cracks that might have started. Pull your head and check everything and actually CC the head and check. You could also change over to a thicker base-gasket to help the compression a little, especially since you're running the spacer plate. Put a thicker gasket below it and above it.

Go buy a 450 or a 250R. lol That's what I would do if I were going to build an trail/track bike. Aftermarket suspension, and engine mods set up for low-end and midrange. Use the search buttom up top. This topic has been covered many times over.

I ride with a guy with a 535 trex that K&T ported and put together. 10mil. My 10mil cub would walk all over that thing. I could give him a good 3 to 4 lengths before I even took off and I would still beat him before the top of the hill.

Umm... there's no lock washer in the clutch. Sounds like someone ghetto-rigged your shit. ROFL

yo dat fool iz straight up fucking tarded. holla back. What a fucking idiot. People like that should all be rounded up and put on an island, or better yet, the moon. Without space suits. Then the rest of the educated American public wouldn't have to put up with retards like that. edit: throw in the "rappers" who can't complete a full sentence without the use of "ya know what I'm sayin'?"

What elevation are you at? Is your air box open or closed with the filter you have listed? Your jetting doesn't seem all that odd. Have you tried pulling your carbs off and cleaning them? Checked your crossover? I'd pull them and clean them before you do anything else.

Well if he's doing it, I'm not going to tear apart a brand new fresh engine I just got done putting together. lol! Tell him have at it. But he might want to check on the patent on the DVD thing if you plan on selling it. I checked on it a couple years ago and my attorney found someone who already had a step b y step tear down video patented and it would be a violation of the patent to try and sell it. Might have him check on it before he tries to sell them, if that's what he is planning on doing. I know a couple years back, had I done it, I wouldn't have been able to sell them. You can give them away, but can't sell them. Maybe tate will get lucky and the patent will have expired and he can make some $$ off it. - Jared

Got a dyno sheet? What size are the "custom domes" ?

I agree. Pull your cover off, drill and tap it and get a little bolt that fits the hole. Get a bronze or brass washer to go between the bolt and the case and screw it in tight, then flip the cover over and take a dremel and smooth the back side of it down flush with the cover so it doesn't eat into your impeller. Save the $$ and get something else that you will see a gain from. Timing plate, get your stock head milled, extra gaskets, extra sprockets... there's lots more out there you can spend the money on.

I used all-thread on my warrior way back in the day when I broke one. But the guy above is right, they are a specialized yamaha bolt. If you are stripping threads or breaking the bolts you are doing something wrong. If you follow the torque rating that's in the clymer manual they will hold just fine. I never had any trouble with banshee rear ends on any of the stockers I've had. You sure you don't have a bearing going out that's causing some drag on the unit and trying to twist it? Check your bearings, and check the two adjuster bolts on the bottom and make sure they are in good shape and adjusted correctly. but yeah... all-thead if you need something right now. If you can wait, just order the OEM parts.

Sounds like a worn out clutch or its out of adjustment. Stick your rear end up on some jack stands or a gas can or something and turn your tires by hand while trying to shift through the gears. If it wont shift, its time to pull the clutch cover off and start inspecting parts. If your clutch is just out of adjustment, you will have to pull the clutch cover off for that too. Do yourself a favor and pick up a clymer manual. It will out-line everything step by step and explain what to check. They are like $25-30 at barnesandnoble.com or amazon.

Raptor plastics are the first sign of homo-sexual thoughts. Just say no!

28pwk 33pwk 35pwk / airstryker All would be good carbs. The smaller the carb, the better your throttle response will be, and the bigger you go the more top end you get. I wouldn't go any bigger than a 35 on that small of a setup.

Try it again without the rtv. Yes, coolant can get down that low, that's what those little rubber plugs on the botoms of the cylinders are for. If one of those plugs is going bad, there is a chance you could get coolant into the cylinder. I would bet more on a head gasket leak though. I wouldn't use the rtv. If your head is clean, and your cylinders are clean the gasket will seat just fine.

Maybe one of these days... I do have a pretty much stock engine chilling in my trailer right now I just rebuilt. Nice and clean and would be easy to do another walkthrough with....