BigRed350x

Mine sure is! :biggrin:

Sorry the pics died everyone. Photobucket dropped every image I had uploaded. Every one of them, and they can't get them back for me. =( Some "server glitch" is what I got from them. But they did hold my images for over 4 years. I'm not that upset about it. One of these days I will have to split the cases again and re-do the walkthrough with better pics and description. - Jared

all of them I have seen come out of the head and go to the left and around the side of the intakes and back under the intakes over to the pump.

But I like all the garbage in my sig. lol :biggrin: the reasoning behind the description in my sig is simply to save me time. I get 1 or 2 pm's every day asking what I have done to my bike and what my rear tank is for, blah blah blah. Its easier if I just tell them to look at my sig, and if people stop and read a little they figure out what they might be asking and save me from having to empty my inbox every three days.

I also refuse to proof-read firehead's posts. ::

Put your socket wrench on there and tighten them a little bit all the way around, then a little bit more, then a little bit more, then on the last time when they go "snap" and spin freely you know you went to far. Don't go that far. :biggrin:

Have your local welding shop weld a ball of aluminum on there and take it to a machine shop and have them mill the little tab back in there and you will be set. The little tab only serves to index the dome and hold it from spinning when you install your spark plugs. I don't know about your area but around here I could get a welder and machine shop to fix that for less than $40. Lot cheaper than a whole new head. - Jared

I agree, if you think changing your jetting for different elevations or weather, and can't handle doing some reading in the jetting forum, you might as well get a 4-stroke. If you want to keep your bike, go to the jetting forum and make a post with your mods, and where you ride and you will get some replies that will give you a good idea of where you should be. Just ti give you an idea... we ride at 7500ft to 8500ft and we run anywhere from 290 to 330 main on piped and filtered bikes. You are lean with a 300 at sea level.

All we have to do in wyoming is go down to a local gas station or the blm office and take your VIN number in to them on a sticky note and pay $15 for a sticker you can put anywhere on your bike and you can ride anywhere in the state, and it transfers to most states that neighbor us. Utah honors them, colorado honors them, montana honors them... :biggrin:

You would have to buy a shitload of that crap to notice any difference. The average junk octane booster will only raise your octane rating 1 to 2 points. Save all the money you are going to waste buying that crap and go get 5gal of real high-octane fuel and mix it 50/50 with your normal gas. The only time you even need to think about running any kind of high-octane fuel is if your compression is above 150-155psi and you have your timing advanced. Do a compression check and see if you even need it. If you are under 155psi you can run 91 or 93 pump gas (whichever you have available in your area) and be just fine. - Jared

I run ATF in my 4mil duner and change it every week during the summer when I ride all the time.

I have a gforce axle with lsr and boss billet hubs and I epoxy all my hubs in place every time I assemble it. - Jared

I've run both on the same setup and definitely like the keihins more. They have more adjustability and seem to respond better. 34tm flat slides bored to 35.5 and a set of 33 keihin PWK's and a set of 35 PWK's and on a 4mil duner the 35 pwk's were the best .

No it wont. An impact gun is the best tool to remove the 32mm nut. I've welded an inner and outer clutch plate together to hold the clutch in place.

Yeah, but its the patience of doing it myself without getting mad and throwing something. Ha Ha! I would also have to lay off the meth to get my hands to stop shaking long enough to turn the motor that runs the tools on, let alone long enough to do any kind of nice porting. ROFL

Only thing I dont like about that one is the risk of those little steel pieces comming off and doing some carnage. I like as few parts inside that can grenade everything as possible. I run a hinson basket with the springs instead of cushions on my 4mil duner. Works awesome and I have had zero problems with it so far. But my serious dune season hasn't started yet and I haven't really romped on it very hard this winter.

ROFL! I've always wanted a K&T Performance stator cover. Oh wait a second... i already have one and scribed "SUCKS" all over it. :laugh:

I've always been a do-it-myself kinda guy. The only thing I send anything out for is stuff I really can't do in-house. (porting and trenching) other than that I do it myself. So I'd say shop around and read up and figure out what it is you are really looking for and go from there. Sounds like you know you want a duner. So you need to look into porting, bigger carbs, head, reeds, crank, heavy duty clutch setup of some kind, pancake bearing, shift star mod, longer swinger, a-arms, shocks... My bike runs great on gas or methanol, just change out my domes and switch carbs and I can run either. Its a great dune machine and does alright when I do some play drag racing with friends. I had gorr port my cylinders and did all the other work myself. I'd say I have maybe $2k in my engine since I did a lot of the work myself, only had to pay for new parts (crank, cylinders, cool head, reeds, bearings, clutch basket, crap like that...) No sense in sending it to a builder when you can it all yourself in your garage with a little time and patience and the internet. Check out www.cascadeinnovations.net and www.rockymountainatv.com and you can get damn near any part you need from those two. cascade even has OEM banshee parts in stock. Call lynn at LC Performance if you need anything bigger (cheetah cylinders, lonestar products, HS customs products, case trenching if you go with a stroker and case boring if you go with a big bore cylinder) So I'd say... for a good duner.... ported cylinders 4mil good pipes (cpi, t5's or shearers) 33-35mm carbs on gas HD clutch setup seals, gaskets, new bearings for the rebuild have someone side-cut your trans gears and do the shift star mod and you will love the difference riding on the dunes. +2 to +4 swinger +2+1 a-arms wide axle aftermarket shocks ...and all the little goodies you read about for the engine and chassis. The 4mil in my sig is only for the dunes and it does great.

Yep, if your not having any luck with a simple fix with the shift star actuator, sounds like it might be time to split the cases and check your drum and forks and gear sets. Splitting is easy once you have the clutch stuff off. Pull your flywheel and timing plate and top end...

you must not have ridden very many banshees then. If its rockin fatty's its not that fast. edit: lots of companies out there make egt sensors that only require a hole and are held in place with a pipe clamp. Its what I run on my methanol bikes. If the holes are about 6" from the head of the pipe thats what they are for. They are hurting performance if they are not plugged. Have a welding shop close them up.

Sell them and get a set of ASR chrommoly ones with the heim joints. I've run the same ones for about 2 and a half years now with no problems whatsoever. I take them apart every winter and inspect them and they heims are still good as new.

Go for it, they are a good unit. I jump at the dunes quite a bit and they hold up fine.

If you have access to a mill it will. Or some kind of similar tool to make some additional clearance.

anyone tried to put a temp sensor directly in the head? Thinking about trying to drill/tap a cool head and mount a sending unit in the head instead of in the cooling lines. Just curious if anyone's tried it and had good/bad luck with it. Suppose you could do it to a stock head too, but figured the cool head would be easier to do. thoughts? :shrug:

I think I figured it out kiel. try me again... :geek: