FireHead

I run nology coils and wires. IMO the easier starting and decreased dwell time are barely worth the extra cash. The only down side to them is that they won't allow an inductive rpm pickup on a dyno to work properly. :geek:

I generally will do this type of thing for free if folks are local to me. :geek:

I will also agree, but it leaves one to ask why you bought a cub in the first place if that's how you are going to roll.

Not too beat on you too bad, but that zerk in the carrier isn't doing much due to the bearing and seal scenario that is going on in the OEM unit. The zerk probably doesn't hurt, but it probably doesn't help either. The swingarm pivot is a sound idea for sure. For the thread starter: Get the kit. If your old bearing munch the rolling surfaces as they will, then you will eat a set of new bearing pretty quick. :geek:

Murdered out in black or matte black is intriguing. :thumbsup:

That's hot! I also would like to go a kawisaki green and silver bike, a yellow and black bike, and I am still trying to figure out something exotic to do with the blue and silver I have going with my project/girlfriend bike. :geek:

Two pieces of insight: 1.) Cascade sells Shearer pipes that they buy bear and chrome them through vendor that works with the company I work for. As far as new Shearer's go, they are the best plating you can get. 2.) Matt's in-house / production chrome from 4 years ago was garbage for several reasons. First, there are not any good plating vendors around his shop (he learned that they same way I found there weren't any good heat vendors in SoCal (the hard way)). Second, he was having the polishing prep./work done at his shop my a low wage/unqualified guy to save on cost, but good plating is 80% prep. and that turned into a mess.

I can't vouch for his business practices, but the dude seems to be relatively technically compitent. :geek:

For Albany, 4"-5" is plenty if the track is being regularly groomed. :thumbsup:

Matt's just flakey and kind of arrogant. He rubs folks the wrong way sometimes. :cool:

I have run them both back to back on the dyno with my red bike. The Shearer's make a little more power, but it's at the expense of torque in the mid-range. Currently, I have the CPI's on my red bike and the Shearer's on my blue bike. I ported the blue bike differently to accommodate the torque loss in the mid-range. :geek:

I'd go along with that.......... except for the ball licking. :thumbsup:

Word. :geek:

Air leak at the base gasket or reed cages......... :geek:

Aftermarket bearing roller?

That's what I used on my old drag bike. They are awesome, but so are the Direst Drive wheels.

As a clarification, Cascade sells Prolites. I used the term standard to indicate OEM Banshee and not aftermarket cylinder. :geek:

They don't........... They sell them though, but they are made by someone else. I can't think of who off of the top of my head. :geek:

I am not necessarily putting the company down, but atleast one of their products has some issues. I am curious about the K&T bowls as well. :geek:

Cascade has the best advertised price that I am aware of for standard Wiseco kits.

Do a search of this site as there are some threads that have pics in them or atleast there used to be. You could also PM bigred350X on here, as he has some pictures of his gusset work. Per some of these previous threads, I discovered I do not have any pictures that are worth anything of my gussets.

That's the correct answer. :geek:

Theoretically you don't need any rod while TIG welding the pin to the CW, you just undercut the entire diameter........ :geek:

What about a PWR radiator or one from Torch Works?

I am not sure I would start calling methanol and methyl hydrate the same thing (even though they technically are). You can get methyl hydrate from a paint store, and it definitely not the same thing as a motor fuel. :geek: