FireHead

You can leave out the rings........

Technically, I am of German descent....... with a little Irish thrown in there. :biggrin:

The methanol blend route is probably the best thing mentioned in this thread other than actually using race fuel.... Beyond that if folks were spelling xylene correctly, then they could find this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene ...............which explains what it is noramlly used for and is very similar to toluene. Neither of which is a brilliant solution for crafting a high performance fuel. In tiny amounts, they can add some desireably characteristics to a fuel, but that is not generally what happens with backyard fuel blenders who treat such things much like dumping a quart of octane booster into a tank of fuel. My $.02 is to that y'all are better off not bothering yourself with this stuff. You are better off setting up an engine to run with a highly oxygenated fuel as opposed to trying to chemically avoid detonation if you don't want to run race fuel.

For the most part, the geometric wizardy in the intakes only support someone stick tell-tales on an intake and sucking through them with a shop vac. If you actually do a little CFD or some math, you suddenly discover most of that stuff people are putting in there is crap. As air speed reaches the speed of sound, the boundary layer increases.......... As an example, the crosshairs in the intake are about 4mm thick, when the air speed iat the speed of sound, the crosshairs are virtually ~10mm thick when it comes to the incoming air's perspective. If you stand back and look at that, then how much air are you actually putting into you engine at high rpm? The basic rule of intakes is that you want all contours to match or flow smoothely together. If you can't necessarily do that then, you can use "stuffing" techniques, but you don't have to do that in today's Banshee aftermarket and you certainly don't ever need a bulls eye in your intake to do it. :geek:

I was thinking somewhere along the lines as a tested example for advertisement purposes...... Example: Take a stock bike, with a stock pump, and measure head and rad. out temps. Then you ran repeat the process with a PD pump and your pump.

1999. I'm just a kid........... :biggrin:

I love perogis..... There is a place by my work that has cajun perogis. They are beautiful. :thumbsup:

I have ways to make as few or as many cylinders as needed. PM me with your idea..... I can think of a couple conversion ideas.

The d-bag is probably from Auburn and I probably went to highschool with him.............. I feel sorry fo anyone that thinks that the ad is something to call on.

If I were not making my own, I would probably buy one just to be diffferent, if nothing else...... It's definitely $100 cool. I am curious as to what the numbers are behind the increased flow, and how much of a cooling difference it makes. :geek:

I have the same questions. I think I am missing something when it comes to undetanding the product. :geek:

I think there are a couple other folks out there that are making the smae thing..... If I recall, Trinity even has something like that (not sure if it's on the site or not).

I have the ability to produce engine cylinders..... What's the idea? :geek:

Bump?

I use the dry break type of those things...... They're expensive, but it's better than most other things. :geek:

Yeah, the LRS rods are pretty hardcore. You're definitely messing something else up before those bend. :thumbsup:

I have been using some rode ends I got from Janssen awhile ago without any trouble. The tie rods themelves are something I made 8 years ago out of some bizarre military surplus PH Stainless Steel. I don't believe the ends gregrob found fit a Banshee. I looked into a couple years ago when they came out.

Maybe that was just Jesus trying to speak to you? :biggrin:

Seeing light is one thing............... What you need to look for is if the light is just coming through the clear epoxy used to make the reads or if there is actually an air gap that is letting the light through. :geek:

No, the Cascade stuffer replace the plastic part with the round hole in it, in the back of the VF3 reed cage.

If that offer falls through........ I'm next. :biggrin:

I have heard that he is a rod punisher......... :ermm:

The white knuckle design is probably the best out there that includes the built-in crossover. If you run in an area that has alot of environmental variations (heat, humidity, altitude, bp, etc.) then you probably are better off with the cross over. If you run at a race track and/or are ok with some tempermental idle behavior at times then the non-connected manifolds are better. The geometric wizardry inside the manifold intake tract is crap.... If it does not match up with the reed cages you are running, then it hurts performance. :geek:

Word. :geek: