patrickkomar

Those are badly casted/cheap guts keihin carbs. I know because my brother bought a set and he never even ran them they look so bad. On the other hand I did take all the guts out of one boiled it lightly and put in the bottom of my fish tank

nice! i'll second the watch for cracks from side loading though. I ride with a gal that has one stretched like yours but was fully boxed and it's been around a long time with no problems.

stock stator? I have a set of lazer stars rated for the stock stator and there better than stock but nothing like a four stroke. trail tech makes a set like the lazer stars and a set of hids that they say can be run off stock stator with a floating ground but I'm not sure. leds seem like some good stuff but I've never seen a set.

what size and number of paddles are you running? A +4" will still let you get the front up at will but if you like to hill climb up the fingers it may still want to come up on you. My brother has a 371 long rod from Brandon that will still loft the front end up with me on it(250 lbs) and a 6 over on when it hooks up hard. I have a dune port 350 by Brandon running stock carbs and I run a 6 over arm, 21x21x8 10 paddle haulers with 14 44 gearing and I get threw the dunes just fine but when the sand is dry it will slid the back end of the bike witch takes some getting use to but i like it. shoot me a pm and I'll give you my number and talk to you about what my crew runs out at Little Sahara and maybe we can hook up for some rides.

witch vent, front or rear? I tip my shee up on my six pack rack when i wash it ( with a 6 over are it stands straight up and down) so i stuff a bolt in the rear vent to keep it from draining trans oil. I once forgot to pull the bolt and it spewed oil out the front vent. Is there a possibility there's a clog in the line or the inlet to the case? Try and give both vent lines a shot of air and see if you get air out of the fill hole.

I did a full rebuild on my shee and now my jetting seems off on the lowend. My bike before the rebuild was in pretty sad shape, it was .60 over with pro light pistons, 18cc domes ( only had about 110 psi on both cylinders ) +4 on the timing, T-5 pipes, stock carbs(30 pilots 350 mains needle in the middle slot) v force 2 reeds, K&N pods. The bike now is .10 over with pro lights, crank is a welded and trued stock, wildcard dune port, 19 cc domes, v force 2 reeds, K&T's single piece intake, same stock carbs with the same jetting only thing that changed was i put in toomys needle, same pipes and pods, the timing has been bumbed to 6. The bike will not idle and bogs really bad if you let get close to an idle and is a bear to try and start. where should I start here????????????????

Okay let me reword my last post, hypercoil sent the info I sent them via email to a company called Re suspension Inc and they contacted me saying that they ran the info past ohlins and the spring rate they recommend is a 543lb spring and they had it in stock from ohlins. I'll be shooting you a pm adapter about the rebuild!

Thanks Matt, hyper put me in touch with another company who deals in olins and they have my spring on hand for a great price! Witch way do you think would be better to rebuild my stock rear shock, have works do one of there Hart transplants or have it rebuilt with the race tech gold valve and race tech seal head and parts?

how would I figure out what spring rate would be right for the back my bike? I'm 6' tall 250 lbs ready to ride. My bike has a 6 over swinger and is a dune only rig.

If nothings hooked to it then cut it off Be careful with the grinder, remember there is no bondo for powder coat. I my self grind things down to a nub then go after it with a flapper wheel and finish with a file. If your a total neet freak fix all the weld over runs if not then just fix the stuff you can see when the plastics on.

Great guy, I have met him personally and been in his shop. The stuff he puts out is top notch and if you have a problem you can call and talk lance directly.

Looked at the oil I drained last night this afternoon and it's defendantly a wasted bearing buy all the shrapnel in it. Tear down take two.

Yes case was split. The kick start and clutch hub all check out fine. should I refill it with oil and tip the bike side to side and see if it stops, or should I just tear it back down and inspect?

After my rebuild during first start up my trans developed a squeal after about 10 secs of running. The trans seems to go into every gear ( didn't want to run it to find out) but it still squeals when the bike is pushed forward in N. I pulled the clutch cover off and can see nothing in there that would make the noise so I rolled the rear tires and it's most defently coming from the trans. Any ideas on what I should be looking for when I do the autopsy?

Did you soak the fibers before they were installed? The clutch arm and the pointer on the case lined up? Are you getting enough travel in the cable when you pull the clutch/ are you using the stock clutch lever?