FireHead

PM sent too late for the VF3's.... :sweat:

Word x4.5 :thumbsup:

2024 is a great material to make a basket from if you are inserting the steel wear plates. Without out the plates a 6000 or 7000 series of ally is needed. I like those Barnett baskets........ If my Hinson spring cushion baskets give up, I may have to try one. :geek:

Word. :thumbsup:

Word. :geek:

My guess is the shaft is carburized......... Which doesn't like being welded either. Providing the groove for the circlip is in good shape, then you can use a split spring washer in place of the snap ring. I have been doing that with a steel bushing pressed into the gear and I have not had any problems in any of my bikes. Whoever said they are paying $15.95 for the bushings ought ot be getting two for that price........... There are several places that sell them for half the price.

That was Loco....

That website is trying to help you calculate static vs. dynamic compression. It's overly simplified in this case, but I suppose it will give you some sort of reference number. :geek: I would beware of a couple of the other things offered on that website as they are not so great.

It's not that things are not lined up, it's that backloading the trans. can make the basic concept of the override work in reverse, which will essentially lock the trans. up or bend a shift fork. A duneable trans. has springs preloading the forks and a couple other minor details that help prevent the above from happening. If you put enough back torque through it, you can overcome the springs and still have the problem notes above.

I don't think the friction discs had much to do with anything in this case. The kevlar issue you refer to has more to with what I suspect is a galvanic corrosion situation which involves a a chemical in the kevlar bonding agent damaging the type of anodizing the GYTR parts are using.

Have you been checking out other dude's pipes? :ermm:

Other baskets (popular brands that I am aware of) are made from 6000, 7000, or some British alloys.

I am rolling a 5mil crank and I didn't have to epoxy anything..... I am not sure what you know? :biggrin:

10% would be fine........ I think I had a "mass" code, but I can't find where I left it.

Mostly I have done all of the work myself. I have had work done by Twister and Cascade in the past.

I agree. I think that alot of people out there have never had to do anything like that before, and it could be pretty itimidating if you weren't sure what you were getting yourself into. ......think about how many people pay to get their oil changed at a Walmart or a Jiffylube type of place. That example might not be about everyone not knowing how to do it, but I would bet that if everyone could do it, then not as many people would go there. :geek:

That's interesting................... They even sell Eyeball Engineering stuff. :geek:

We've had a running string of jokes going for about 3 years now and it just keeps getting longer........ :biggrin:

Without seeing the part in person, here is what I noticed: *The anodizing (or maybe just dye) doesn't appear to be very thick. That is certainly not helping the surface hardness situation. *The clean breaks on the basket look like they are fatigue based and originate from the sharp corners as the base of the basket fingers. *Not that you'll ever find out, but I'd be curious what type of ally alloy that thing is made out of. It looks soft and gummy (from an engineering standpoint)... :geek:

I don't know if it will help, but PM dajogejr on here. I think he is a BOSS distributor and he might be able to sort something out for you. :thumbsup:

Given the opportunity to do it properly, I would split the cases and replace the seal. On the other hand, if I was being lazy and was working on an engine that I didn't care if I lossed, then I might try pushing it in there. I definitely feel that this should only be tried by someone who knows what they are doing..... There is alot of things that could potentially go wrong there when customizing the PTO seal and bonding it in. It's one of those things, that could cause a not-so-apparent problem later.....

Potentially, you can resleeve the cylinders and weld or epoxy the housings, but at that point a set of eBay cylinders might be easier for most folks to deal with. :geek:

Hopefully that isn't a second-hand glove you have there.... The glasses look like this:

I tired that, but all I got was a coupon for a free pocket pool glove and some funny glasses that make you see stuff in a fire. :ermm:

I haven't heard of them either.