FireHead

I do my own tuning at work. If you are looking for a place to go get your bike on a dyno, I would recomend Cascade, Twister, White Knuckle, or Redline.

I have used an MSR Raptor lever setup and a Fly (the expensive-ass one with all the bearings in it) without any problems. I don't think I have used an OEM perch/lever setup with a Terminator cable. :geek:

A Dyno Jet is a better tuning tool than just sitting on a bike and feeling it with your ass for sure. Dyno Jets generally have the worst repeatability in the industry, but they are also the least expensive. The point I have been trying to make with dynos all along, is that unless you break into the higher cost dyno market, and dyno print out is only worth the paper it's printed on, and it may not be worth that if the dyno operator/tech. is not the most experienced individual. When you have folks posting power numbers as a measure of achievement, it's all relative. I could run one of my bike on 3 different Dyno Jets and get three dramatically different numbers. There really isn't any way to tell which is more accurate............ and I have seen several Dyno Jets cough up wildly different numbers for the same bike on different days. Accuracy is a completely different deal and is really subject to more than just the dyno and it's calibration. I could jabber on for hours about that. :biggrin: There are only a few real quality ATV specific dynos installed out there........ Number off other stuff is generally just conversation material when comparing different folk's engine work.

I have been meaning to switch my Banshee's over to foam as soon as the pleated gauze filters wore out............. They just have not worn out yet. You don't see a serious race vehicle running a pleated filter after all.... :biggrin:

That's not terrible for OEM cylinders. Someone told me Passion engines, were slow anyways................ :ohmy:

If he had the proper filters they would not be too restrictive. Air flow numbers for an engine are real easy to figure out. Manufacturer's of filters openly advertice the flow data for each of their filters. Then, all you have to do is pick the correct filters. There is really no downside to running a filter. :geek:

84hp isn't very much power for 421............. I suspect most people could deal with a stock swingarm at that power level. :ermm:

Fireball, Metal Tech, Dave Moore, and HS Customs also make them..........

I don't have a problem with any of my Terminator cables...... I got them from RMATV as well.

Here's your sign :yelrotflmao: : ........and there is not any downside to running an air filter, so why would you not do it?

They are required at most of the U.S. dune areas..... This has been talked about alot on here, but no one ever comes up with any flags. Someone needs to ask on the SLD site and see who made theirs. :geek:

Word. Compression is usually the killer of an non-welded crank..... If you are using over 19cc domes at sea level with OEM cylinders, your crank is more than likely going to cause you problems at some point. :geek:

Word. :thumbsup:

Word. RTV is a bad idea in most cases...... :geek:

That is a good question. It all depends on the size of the piston used. It is definitely a design challenge. :geek:

That's funny right there....... I don't care who ya are. :biggrin:

The YFZ450 front setup will probably cover most folks needs on the front.... I didn't run front brakes on my hill/drag bike and the OEM Banshee caliper wasn't enough to slow it down....... A bigger rear caliper that is a direct bolt-on is probably what most folks need. You need to probably use some type of OEM pads from a sport bike to make the product useful. Some of the Formula Atlantic cars run pad from a litre bike on their diff. outputs in an integrated opposed 3 piston caliper design (6 pistons total). I could see making a single caliper setup like that work pretty well, but plunge EDM'ing or gun drilling the fluid ports is a design drawback for such a long style of caliper. :geek:

Follower....... :biggrin:

Yeah, or you could even have mismatched cylinders or a warped top case half. :geek:

If the o-ring are shredding on the domes, the cylinders may not be sitting on the same level with respect to each other. If there is variance there, then you will have a myriad of issues........

Do you have an extra pass that I can have?

What do you have to do to make that caliper work (bracket and rotor)?

I only ever ran 1 on my JJ&A setup....

I like the idea of upgrading the rear brake to match the upgraded fronts.... If I understand correctly, the 250R caliper just gives you more pad surface area? :geek:

The FireHead thing is not because I have red hair (I don't have red hair)..... :cool: