The best I did was the following when I was still in skool.
*OEM welded crank balanced with entire rotation assembly.
*OEM remachined head.
*OEM carbs bored out to 30mm and bored for larger slides (not worth the time and effort).
*OEM cylinders with sleeves pressed out, casting and sleeves ported, then reassembled (done on a live 4 axis CNC mill). You could consider it a hot dune port by industry standards.
*OEM pistons machined to be equal weight.
*OEM rods machined to be equal weight.
*OOF handmade pipes.
*OEM reed cages, ported, with CF reeds (I made the reeds, which wasn't worth the effort).
*M100 fuel w Castor 927 oil.
*Dyna ignition w/ OEM coil.
*The radiator and cooling system in the test cell was used with an electric water pump and thermostat set at 190 degrees.
The engine ran for ~10 hours on a Super Flow water brake engine dyno (driven off of the crank). It failed a reused OEM crank bearing at about that time. Peak mean horsepower was 101hp and I can't remember the torque, but I can try and find my engine build book for the engine if anyone cares.