FireHead

There used to be a guy on here that had some sort of shop in the Denver area that had a Crankenstein. Maybe someone can remember the guys name. From my experience, the power numbers from Crankenstein engines have been all over the place. It really depends on each unique engine.

The last set of billet cases I made only cost ~$300 for the metal......... :geek:

What is a stand up bike?

There are acouple instances of these failures floating around now...... I think you must have just found a good backet. IMO the backets that I have seen the failed pictures of, don't look old, or abused............ they do look poorly made though as evident by their modes of failure.

I agree. A 10mil is about the minimum stroke-wise that you can get that kind of power out of. :geek:

Autoparts store crab vent line.............. or fuel line guy on eBay.

I have done the equivalent and the bike was not really usable/rideable in the long term. It's pretty dumb....

The ignition really depends on how you setup the crankshaft. Do you have two cylinders in the same phase, three different phases, or some sort of odd-fire setup? If you are sticking with an OEM style crankshaft with an extra pin,rod, and cheek scabbed on, then you can use an OEM ignition setup, and just need yo use an aftermarket triple wire output coil (common for outbard marine engines). If you want to get more exotic, then the sky is the limit.

SCTA and Guiness are two different sanctoning bodys............... When it comes to land speed records, Guiness is generally not the gold standard. With that said, the rocket quad is kind of cool and I am pretty sure he is from Oregon (I might be wrong).

Temperature is directly related to jetting. I can't speak for anyone else's tuning work with regard to engine temp. There is such a thing as being improperly hot..... If you have good airflow through the radiator and you're cruising at 230 F, then that's not right..... Of course 160F in that situation is not correct either.

That's a funny picture right there................. :biggrin:

The 6 bolt style is the old style DD cover. The 12 bolt is the new style. Everyone still seems to carry both. I suppose you could call Jeff too..... :biggrin:

An OEM Banshee radiator is sufficient to support alot of horsepower if it is in good condition and the rest of the cooling system is up to the task. To answer another question: 235 degrees F is about as hot as you will want to let an OEM'ish Banshee engine get before you run into trouble.

As long as there are magnets in the wheel, cracked, broken, or not................. The flywheel will work (maybe not a great idea to continmually run it like that).

Dumb question: Do you have a discount for BHQ members?

It's the same as for an OEM head.

I suppose it depends on who made the cover, but if it was DD, then call them or Cascade.

Those temp.'s aren't abnormal and is relatively normal for the cooling system. The thing is: All one of the products will do if you are inside the normal operating range of the system is to make heat transfer more efficient (i.e. will heat and cool faster). If you are outside of the normal operating range on the high side, it will allow the system to exchange more heat, faster. I'm not sure if that makes sense..... Let me know if you would like an alternate explanation.

The small portion of DDC EE that is attached to my group haul their $45k scope all over the place. It's amazing what you can find with one of those things. It's also amazing how easily you can flip or shift a sensor signals with stupid errors in wiring harness manufacture. :geek: The one in my garage doesn't get used much at the moment. I think the last thing I used it for was figure out how to properly eliminate the electo-pneumatic smog controls and EGR system from my 1989 Mustang, so that the ECM will never figure out what it's monitoring is missing. I also mess with my girlfriend by monitoring the galvanic potential of my nose when she wanders into the garage to see what I am doing. :biggrin:

I have one in my garage......... It's 1980's Boeing surplus, but it works great. :geek:

Plastic vs. fuel volume difference is probably not worth talking about...... :geek:

I am pretty sure I posted their website a long time ago in this thread.... :geek:

How much for the FASST bars?

You're only hope is to get some plastic scrap that is the same type as the tank is made out of. Then, you will need to melt it into the crack with a soldering iron or micro torch.

Aeration is cavitation. I just figured that no one would know what I was talking about if I said cavitation. An engine probably runs fine without them, but there is a reason (previously stated) that is there and it makes sense. It may not make a difference in the short term, but in the long term there will be less jet errosion and a better fuel pickup (not sure if you could see a difference on dyno or not. I suspect people are saying not to run them, because they took them off and it didn't seem to matter. If someone has any other reason, I would be happy to hear it. Sorry for the lat reply..... I am not on here much at the moment due to the truck business not being very good and my company taking away my Blackberry for cost saving.