FireHead

A 10mil can be a duner no problem. :thumbsup:

Is it a 4mm cast cub cylinder block or a stock stroke block?

Nah, I can't ever make it............... It's always during our summer test operation at work. :mad:

Are those knuckles the same geometry as the original Honda arms? If not that may be your problem that is causing the dive issue. :geek:

Who is your polisher?

Minkia on here ships alot of stuff with Greyhound. Maybe you can PM him and see if he knows stuff? :geek:

+2 lines will work fin as well.

I have used a selection of TDR reeds........ They weren't really anything special.

Big diesels are running liners, but not in a open deck format. A billet piston is technically made out of a forging, since that is basically all a billet is................ All you need to make pistons is a 5-7 axis WFL mill-turn machine and you'll be all set to make pistons, cranks, transparts, etc. :biggrin:

I can't remember........... It could be a three horned, purple people eater for all I know. I am pretty sure there is a VF3 application that covers it. :geek:

I think the piston growing all depends on the specific piston for a specific manufacturer. It is not fair to say all forged pistons grow in strange ways. Just as it is not fair to say all cast pistons expand uniformly. For instance, a piston made from a chunk of billet (that is not hammer forged) and goes through a proper heat process, will be far superior, while having a much more uniform expansion rate in all directions. You really don't see many performance small gas engines with open deck cast iron liners any more for good reason. :geek:

I doubt you can here reeds hitting anything. Furthermore, I don't think your reed spacers are helping anything either (certainly they change the responsiveness and frequency of the petals). If you don't like CF reeds what do you prefer? Properly made CF reeds are far more robust and and are a much higher performance (from a material standpoint), than pretty much any other type of commercially available material. :geek:

Refresh my memory: What is the OEM application for the reed cages the T-Rex cylinders use?

Generally I am not working with the stereo typical dynos people are familiar with....... The engine and chassis dyno's I deal with are quite advanced. The 200 hour deal refers to time on an engine dyno attempting to develop a new Banshee'ish engine. :geek:

I see you are leaving my red hot rod out of that hp range. :biggrin: You're 100% correct though...................

Not to beat on you too bad, especially since it seems like you are really trying to learning something, but what you just described really only raises the octane rating at the expense of the fuel's energy density. In other words if you go that route (mixed to the limits you noted), you will have less detonation, but you will also make less power. :geek:

Could be a front tank mount sleeve, but I don't think the hole in the center is big enough.......

On my triple from a fre years ago, I would get about 200 hours on the engine dyno before I needed to turn the reed petals over due to the tipsbot seating flush on the cages. My old 10mil didn't show any where after about 100 hours total. My red bike doesn't have much time on it..... What you can take away from all that is that something usually let's go before the VF3 reed petals reach the end of their life on a properly functioning engine.

For the wheel/ball joint issue, you mat need to run a larger diameter wheel with that setup.....

Speaking for myself, I wasn't bashing Shearer............. However, I was trying to keep the thread real with respective to dealing with him. I figured y'all just needed to know what the deal is. :thumbsup:

Do you have the correct shocks for those a-arms? Shock length may be setting your ride height wrong, which could be causing your steering stop issues.

Here's the deal: 1.) There are big bore pipes and small bore pipes. 2.) There are big flange and small flange pipes. 3.) There are big bore, small flange pipes. 4.) There are small bore, big flange pipes. .......... you can have any combo of these things. Y'all only need small flange, small bore pipes.

I have run TDR's and the reeds broke all the damn time on stock cages. The porting on my cub hates everything except VF 2 or 3's..... My OEM cylinder bike loves Carbon Tech. reeds on ported cages....... It's mostly about find the type of cage and reed your engine likes.

That's usually the case, but it depends on the specific tire type. :geek:

However, welded in place is not normal. Get rid of the welded setup. :geek: