J-Madd

I haven't got it on the dyno yet. I bought it used and was told it dyno'd either 138 or 148 hp. I've beat a 10 mm DM and an 18 mm DM on it so far. The 18 was having problems, I think. I plan on getting it to the dyno eventually and let ya'll know.

Surely that's above "average", but definitely a good number to shoot for.

..or a dremel and cutting bit and lots of patience!

Timing is at about +5 [stock plate maxed out], mixed 24:1..currently with some old alky that may have drawn some moisture, compression about 150. Just a stock milled head. Nothing fancy at all about this thing. If I burn it down, I'll just make it fast like the rest of them....but for now I'd rather that not happen

Definitely don't take it to the dealer!! If infact it's the CDI, you just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. Takes less than 5 minutes. BUT..that may not be your problem. 300 mains seems lean unless at high altitude with pipes/K&Ns, but that would have no effect on idle.

Clutch slipping?

Oh..I thought you ran gas, and weren't familiar with alky...didn't mean to insult you with the alky plug tutorial :thumbsup: You running inframes? My OOFs on the others are never hot.

I don't have any pics. On alky, a plug looks like new if it's too rich. If it's too lean/hot it turns black or dark brown. The base of the threaded part of the plug will begin to bronze starting at the strap, as it gets hot. Where it is not burned, it is still shiny, like new. Ideally you want the marks on the plug to go to 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, with the strap at the 12 o'clock position. My plugs show that it's rich, so that's why I'm stumped about it not smoking. I can kind of see why the pipes would be hot if it's rich...the flame is burning farther into the pipes, right?

I don't remember seeing it, but there were a lot of bikes there. I'd just leave everything the way he had it since it runs good. Just put in some new plugs and do a plug chop to make sure the jetting is close. +7 on the timing is no big deal..especially if you plan on running race gas.

I'm a little stumped here. I just got my stock Banshee running on alky. It's not ported and has T5s, 34 mm pjs (0.118 dumps/mains, egn needles, pilot 55(?)),powerjets all the way out. It runs good but the expansion chambers are HOT, and it smells like it's about to melt down! But you can touch the cylinders, and even the flange of the pipes and not get burned. And it barely smokes when warm (mixed 24:1..currently with some old alky that may have drawn some moisture). BTW the pipes are old and full of oil and carbon from years of running rich on gas. Is this something to worry about? Do inframes just hold that much heat? There are barely any heat marks on the plugs..burned only to about 2 o'clock from the strap, but the porcelain ring is darker than I think it should be.

I've never raced any cheaters, I've just raced some very fast "stock stroke Cubs" or "stock stroke stock cylinders", :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

No chance the new crank is a 7 or 10 mil?

Stupid question, but are you following the torque sequence in the Clymer manual?

It's most likely leaking around the o-ring in where the alluminum tube from the side cover goes into the case. From there it goes through the hole in the case (under the carbs there is a hole that goes all the way through) and runs down the bottom of the case, giving the appearance that it is coming from one of the case bolts. I don't think anything ever leaks from those.

I haven't had any problems out of mine. I know the hinson comes with the screws already covered in loctite and the 3/8'' drive allen wrench for installation. It does seem like the hinson is a little lighter, but I'm not sure.

If the pressure plate was misaligned on the splines, you usually have NO lever pull, but he has lever pull, right? Are the plates/fibers installed correctly (fiber should be the installed first and last)? Did you use the o-rings that go on the factory clutch? (Don't need those with aftermarket clutch). Are all of the springs tight? You can have lever pull if you have at least one spring tight, but your clutch will slip so bad you you'll barely move.

I bet you're right.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hill-Shoote...bayphotohosting In the pics there is a solid clutch cover on the motor in the chassis, but the motor by itself has a clear cover?? Seems like a hell of a deal if it's for real. I have the same motor by the same builder, and it screams. Mine ran 3.72@86 mph pig rich.

They definately perform!! I've got some IFs and OOFs and love them both.

I never even read anything in the general discussion forum, and just thought I'd check to see if there was a "Planet Sand Sucks" thread....and here it is! It's not a lot of money to pay, but it sure looks like lots of greed.

Did you try turning it with something other than the shifter??? (channel locks, etc.) If the external shift mechanism is bent it may not move far enough to actually "click" the drum all the way into the next gear. What happens exactly when you try to down shift..is there play in the shifter, or is it firm? "...it would only then shift up and not down." So basically, it's stuck in 6th gear? Surely it's not the forks on a stock tranny, but who knows.

Wasn't true with my 421, but every case is different. I could shift easily; but the hardest part was holding on while trying to clutch and keep from wheelieing...I looked like I was riding a bull a couple times when my hand slipped off of the left grip. MUCH easier to ride with the override, though.

I've read that you can install 2, but it seems that 1 is sufficient on a stock motor.

Unfortunately that would be a 4 stroke. (except for the fast part)