J-Madd

Be sure and do a compression check before running pump gas with those. I had a motor with 180 psi with 20 cc domes/don't remember what psi 21s are supposed to be at sea level.

Fuel filter should be ok on a stock motor. When you get into bigger motors, they don't flow enough to keep up. Here's the jetting I ran with the set up: 25 pilots, stock needle in the middle, 350 mains. This was with +5 timing, T5s k&n, no lid.

0.020'' should get you close to 150 psi. You'd be fine with +4 timing and pump gas.

If you slowed from 6th gear, downshit a gear or 2.............Welcome to 2 -Stroke paradise!!! The "turbo" feeling is typical of the Banshee...

Yeah you're 100% correct, but that doesn't affect idle, just runs like crap until WOT.

NO. I'm going with cable in a bind. Been there, done that. Let the cable all the way loose, idle all the way down, then look at the slides...and start it up.

Does this happen when it's cold as well as hot?

Check out this site-->Oneal Engineering

I've always let the throttle close just after shutting the engine down.

I've realized that you're talking bout the LEFT side of the engine. Most of my post referred to the RIGHT side.

Don't the shift fork shafts (for lack of the correct term) go in either way? Isn't there a tab on the shift mechanism that bends over those so they can't come loose? It's been a long time since I've split a case, I usually drink the whole thing myself. But it's been a few months since I've taken a Banshee engine apart as well. I think those plugs are tapered such that as you tap them in, they kind of get jammed in the holes. Oh, and that would not cause an air leak.

x1. I ruined my first flywheel with a jaw puller. I didn't know any better.

If swapping carbs doesn't change the problem side, swap plug wires. If neither changes the affected side you've ruled out jetting or electrical. That leaves air leak, head or base gasket leak, low compression on one side/hole in piston, etc.

I used to have a set. I had no problems with them.

You can bend the clutch lever on the case down a little. If that doesn't work, you can take the bowl screw out and grind it down a little. I did that, and ground it too far, but just put some silicone or yamabond on it to stop the slow leak it had. You're still able to take the screw out with pliers. YOu could also remove the screw and weld the hole shut, but it sucks when you want to re-jet.

Not clutching to (up) shift would make no difference on the override, be it trail riding or drag racing. Backloading the tranny is the question Maybe you're saying to still clutch to downshift and decellerate whle trail riding, which I would agree with. But it has been said that you CAN backload the dunable like a normal tranny, I just choose not to on mine.

Yeah we're about an hour south of Brick's. We're about 8 hours from KC.

Feel free ask any questions. I'll post up the classes later.

I'd say leave the clip in the middle..and s far as the main, I always ran 350s with that setup. A little fat, but ran great. 300 ft elevation, 50-90 degrees. YOu didn't ask, but the stock pilot is fine w/T5s.

Turn in the little red screw on the clutch lever. Those hydraulic cables suck, btw. I had the slave cylinder go bad in one in a matter of months and the company wouldn't replace it. Easy pull perch and a brand new cable is as good as the $200 (or whatever) hydraulic setup.

Is it from the future?

I've got some FMF SSTs that are good low/midrange pipes. Good condition $200 shipped.

Yeah, the output shaft bearing support is a good idea. As far as the theory behind the billet mounts..the rubber in the factory mounts allows the entire engine to move, and the solid mounts don't. There is nothing that has to "give" with the solid mounts, assuming you have the bearing support. All power is directed toward the back sprocket, rather than on case or output shaft flex. Just my 0.02...for what it's worth. What kind of axle are you running? Are you 100% sure that the rear sprocket is lined up with the front? This is cause of most front sprocket issues, I believe.

\ I'm running them on a 593 Cheetah, 300 ft sand and I have no problem with the cases flexing. I would think you would be fine with the 421 on asphalt with those. You'll have to locktight your side covers, gas tank, plastic, etc; b/c they will vibrate loose with the solid mounts.

I'd be afraid mice would get in there and eat all of the wires to the stator.