J-Madd

Go with the 421 Cub.....(Big Bore AND stroker). If had to choose a BB Cub stock stroke or a 4 mil stock bore cub, I'd go with the 4 mil stock bore Cub. To answer your question: longer stroke (+ 4 mil) increases power and tq more than bore (68 mm) IMHO. Unless you're talking about a huge bore increase (i.e. DM, etc).

Yeah it sucks to forget if its mixed or not. I used to run klotz oil in klotz 108 octane.....the fuel was already red, making it impossible to see if it had been mixed. I hope ya' figure it out!

Yeah that's a great deal. Not bad even if they were used, as long as the nikasil is in good condition. You'll need to get your crank trued and welded eventually though. Other than that and the BB domes, you can bolt on and go. You'd eventually want bigger carbs, pipes, extended swinger, etc.

So the Can-Am is faster than 4.50 in 300ft? Very doubtful, but I guess anything is possible.

Possible problems - carbs aren't sync'd - clogged pilots - needle clip in different positions on each carb/came out all together (unlikely) - Choke tube fell off - cracked reeds

I ran them on an unported motor a few years ago. Worked great.

If you don't have manual, just take the clutch apart and assemble it exactly the same. With the oem clutch the steel plates have tabs that have to be spread out from each other, not sure exactly how much, though. (e.g. line a tab up at 12:00, 2:00, 4:00...etc). Also...don't overtighten the clutch bolts...and most importantly don't forget to line up the clutch actuator on the case with the arrow on the case. If you don't know what that means, we'll explain it when you get that far in the installation.

I know of one that will beat any piped Banshee, period. Any probably even beat some mildly ported ones. Ran 5.30's - 5.50s all day long on the bottle..maybe faster this year.

Was the coolant even low? If the radiator is full and hasn't had antifreeze/water added to it it may not be the seal..just water getting in around the dipstick. HOWEVER, replacing the seal would still be an easy, inexpensive task. Also..water/antifreeze cannott enter the transmission from the water plugs leaking on the cylinders. It could probably enter the crankshaft area of the crankcase, but tranny oil and this area should never contact each other (unless there is a bad crank seal on the clutch side of the motor..but that is not the cause of your current problem)

On my 2 lightened frames, I've relocated the stock bracket to the front. On my drag chassis, I used double sided tape and stuck the cdi (and rev limiter box) to the bottom of my aluminum tank...haven't ran it like this yet, but it seems to bond very well to the tank.

Every SRP part I've purchased has been high quality - thumb throttle assembly, parking brake block off, billett basket, clutch lever, probably many others I can't think of at this time; though I have no experience with the reed cages.

You could try adjusting the shift shaft with the adjuster on the external shift mechanism per Clymer's instructions. It centers the shift mechansim to the shift star. If that doesn't work, I'd say it may be time for some shift forks.

410s seem huge, but if it ain't broke, don't fix it! :thumbsup:

Methanol is not ethanol, but both are alcohol. Propanol, butanol, other hydocarbon chains with OH- on the end ("ol") are categorized as alcohol. Drinking ethanol will get you drunk, any of the other alcohols will likely kill you, btw. I've read that you jet for e-85 the same way as methanol, but I have no experience w/ E-85.

It takes a ton of teflon tape to seal completely.

You can also use the adjuster from a parking break lever (which you don't have), or put some washers there to space it for a temporary fix.

Did you install an aftermarket lever? If so, the adjustment screw is not long enough....use the stocker. If that is not the problem, I'd check to make sure the pressure plate is flush against the inner hub. It's possible to put it on without it lining up with the splines, and you don't really notice until you don't have any clutch pull.

You don't have to use the splash guards, imo. I've ran a few sets of stock carbs without them....and aftermarket carbs don't have them either.

Damn I just bought a brand new set from RDZ -2/+3 chrome. (What do you mean by reamed?)

Left carb slide stuck open? Hence, revving up but nothing from the right side. Worth a look.

Axle bearings ok? Carrier tightened down?

I don't think your supposed to run a fuel filter with alky. You want that stuff going into your carbs as fast as possible. I just use a "t" and run a line to a bottle and the others to the carbs.

I don't think Billy Clayton even knows you have to port the transfers or exhaust ports. He probably thinks grinding on the intake is porting. You're probably lucky in that aspect.

I asked this question a while back and it was unanimous that it wasn't cost efficient, and it still would not run like a cast 4mil.

You have to measure the thickness, not how much is flattened..but your solder looks way to thick, i.e. not flattened enough. EDIT: nevermind. I looked back at the pic. You just put the ruler there to give as a scale to go by. It looked like you were showing the length of the flattened part, but on your rule, its more than 0.1''. Your measuring correctly (but calipers are necessary for greater accuracy) and you have found your problem.